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Wednesday, March 27, 2013

“Kitchen Nobility, Part XLIII: Yesterday and Today, we move into the Arena of Gourmet Hollandaise Sauces as only Chef Lilah and Hawaii can produce, Part II!” by Chef Lilah Paulikovich


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Today’s album is Frank Zappa’s forty-fourth solo album, “Cheap Thrills,” which came out in 1998 and was the tenth in a long line of posthumous albums.  Like all the rest of Mr. Zappa’s lengthy catalog, this is a fine album and one that shows the amazing versatility possessed by this extremely talented musician.  Take the convenient link posted above, go to Amazon.com and buy it now!—you will be glad you did!                      





THURSDAY, MARCH 28, 2013

 
THE NEW AGE—TWO YEARS UNTIL THE NEXT ELECTION ARRIVES!

 

 

 

 
 
 
STINKBUG 2013
 
 
 

 



Chef Lilah Paulikovich

END Commentary 03-28-2013

Copyright © 2012 by MHB Productions

Word Count: 2,697.

 

AMERICAN INSTITUTE OF CULINARY POLITICS

 

ELEMENTALNEWSOFTHEDAY.BLOGSPOT.COM-STINKBUG—THE HEADLINES

Elemental News of the Day Commentary-Opinion-Sports-Foodservice for           Thursday, March 28, 2013 by Chef Lilah Paulikovich



KITCHEN NOBILITY—THE SAUCIER



Kitchen Nobility, Part XLIII: Yesterday and Today, we move into the Arena of Gourmet Hollandaise Sauces as only Chef Lilah and Hawaii can produce, Part II!” by Chef Lilah Paulikovich

HAPPY EASTER WEEK 2013!

858th BLOGPOST AT THE AICP-END!
HUMP DAY!

Bakersfield, CA, 03-28-2013 Th:  Today is HUMP DAY, an exciting time around here to say the least as that means the workweek is at its high point and from here to the finish this Easter Sunday, it’s all downhill.  I do enjoy coming here to Bakersfield, coming to the mainland is always a fun thing because once I leave here, and I head straight to downtown Las Vegas, the place where all Hawaiians go on their required annual Hajj.  I take my vacation time, board the jet with my husband, kids, and grandkids, and arrive in downtown Los Angeles.  From there, we jump on the bus that heads to the desert city and spend about four solid days spending money, attending shows, and dining out.  The kids love visiting the city as it is a wonderful place now that it has made an effort to be kid-friendly and that is always fun for everyone.   I love coming to the mainland—but would never want to live here, no too much land!—but always enjoy going back home, too.

I have always thought that the island of Kahoolawe would be the ideal place to establish casinos; it is good for nothing else.  I think state-organized gaming in the islands would be perfect for all of us and with it placed on ONE island, and one no one has utilized as much as any of the others, it would be perfect.  Security would be good, people would pay to cross over to it from the south of Maui, and there, they could have casinos built all over the top of this lofty island.  Imagine the amazing casinos that could perch atop the cliffs, the only problem is they need to clean up all of the unexploded ordnance fired by the United States Navy that remains on the island.  I think they can do this and then the only thing left would be the relocation of the goats that live there but that should not be a problem. 

Therefore, I appeal to you island Fathers; please consider my plea to bring casino gambling to the islands by placing it atop the unused island.  Can you imagine the tax revenue coming in, it would be amazing as people from all over the Pacific Rim would come here instead of going elsewhere and we could become the richest state of the country.   Look at Nevada, prior to legalized gaming, it was nothing but a military state but what with the advent of the casino, it exploded into one of the wealthiest states in the nation.   I think that if we are serious about providing jobs for our children’s, children’s, children, then this is something we definitely need to do as if we do not; the glut of people coming here is going to displace the natives driving us into the sea.  How many people can we absorb, we already have homeless folks living all over the islands and if you value the islands as they once were, if you do nothing now, you stand to lose them forever!  After all, the numbers of us coming to the mainland to spend our hard-earned dollars would end up remaining in Hawaii and that would benefit all of us!

Yesterday, we were making gourmet hollandaise sauces, something that is near and dear to me and yet, I do realize that many among you sneer at the classics of old.  Look, I am like everyone else, I believe that we must continually create our cuisine as it goes, it changes, it moves, it becomes imbued with newer and more exciting ingredients.  Yet, at the same time, we must not throw the influences of the past out, as with the baby and the bathwater, it is important to find places in which, they can all interact lest we throw out a part of ourselves.  All of these young buck chefs pouring out of culinary academies across the globe seem to feel that the more food you pile atop one another is what the customers want.  Well, I beg to differ, I see many guest disassembling their towers at their tables, unhappy with this pyramid of food placed before them.  I tell my sous chefs, do not do this except for special occasions as the people coming here, especially the Locals, will not eat food heaped up in front of them unless, of course, it’s a loco moco—that’s fine!

Okay, working with papaya is a nice thing to do, as it is not quite as acidic as is the pineapple used yesterday so it does not require quite the same handling techniques.  All you need to do is to cook it, it is the rawness of most fruits that is the deal-breaker, and it breaks the fragile emulsion of hollandaise sauce down to its separate components.  When that happens, there is almost NOTHING one can do to repair the resulting mess; it is unusable unless someone does something so bad they can never be called a “chef” ever again!  What I am talking about is removing the butter and making a roux and then whisking the mess back together, it is called Sauce Batarde, I believe, and is the egg-based sauce tightened with roux that the unlucky chefs whip up when they need something that appears to be a Hollandaise but which, is not.   Do not let this be you!

(#0310-C) PAPAYA HOLLANDAISE SAUCE

 

Like pineapple, lilikoi, and other gourmet flavors of hollandaise sauce, papaya is yet another unique flavor perfect for Polynesian and tropical night on the mainland or as a mainstay if one lives in Hawaii such as I do.  I recommend this sauce for a variety of fresh deep sea and offshore fishes that live around the islands such as opakapaka, onaga, mahi-mahi, and others. 
Yield: about 2.5-3 cups  / Mis-en-place: 30-45 minutes:
 

 

Qty.
Measure
Item
Other
The Papaya:
1
Cup
Freshly diced fresh SWEET papaya
 
The Hollandaise Sauce:
8
Each
Egg yolks
 
2
Tablespoons
Cold water
 
2
Teaspoons
Lemon juice
 
.5
Teaspoon
Kern’s papaya nectar
 
2-3
Cups
Warm drawn butter
 
1
Teaspoon
Kosher salt
 
.5
Teaspoon
Cayenne pepper
 
1
Teaspoon
Torani’s Orgeat syrup
 

 

Method:

1.     Mis-en-place: have everything ready with which to work! This is an easy yet temperamental sauce to make so pay strict attention to the instructions.  Use a metal bowl that will fit over a pot into which you will put boiling water (the bottom).  This sauce is easier to make using a bowl and pot rather than a Bain Marie or double boiler.  Have the pot ready with steaming water but make sure that the bowl will NOT actually touch the water; you want the sauce to be cooked by the steam roiling up, NOT the water itself.
2.     The first thing one need to do is to prepare the papaya.  Unlike the pineapple, the papaya is a somewhat bland fruit so the important thing to do is to peel it, remove the seeds, and then take the required amount and sauté it briefly in a skillet over low heat, the idea being to concentrate the flavor and to reduce the liquid content.  Once you do this, mash it into pulp and set it aside until needed to blend into the finished hollandaise sauce.

3.     Beat the egg yolks with the cold water until frothy with a wire whisk.  Place the bowl over the pot, holding it with one hand and whisking like mad with the other.  Allow the steam to swirl up around the bowl and at first, the mixture will look liquid but then will begin to thicken and to expand after several minutes.  PAY ATTENTION TO THE BOTTOM OF THE BOWL: YOU DO NOT WANT THE EGGS TO SCRAMBLE!

4.     As you continue whisking, you will see it beginning to thicken and to expand but if you see any signs of scrambling, quickly remove the bowl from the pot, whisking all the while.  You need to keep whisking so that it becomes homogenous and so that NO damage is done: there’s nothing worse than having to do this over but sometimes at first, the novice will have to do it repeatedly until they obtain the “feel.”
5.     When thickened and somewhat creamy in appearance, whisk in the lemon and papaya juices.  Now, place the bowl containing the mixture inside another bowl into which you have placed a towel as this secures the work bowl that much better than without it and proceed.  This will hold the bowl while you proceed to the next step: adding the liquid butter.
6.     With one hand, begin dribbling in the drawn butter along the sides of the bowl while whisking steadily with the other.  You must make this emulsified sauce by hand, as there is NO other way in which to do it.  Continue adding butter and continue whisking until the sauce has either thickened or begun to separate: if it’s separating, STOP adding the butter and continue whisking like mad until it’s emulsified and then begin adding a bit more of the butter.  YOU CANNOT RUSH THIS PROCESS!
7.     If it seems that the mixture can tolerate NO more butter, stop adding it.  When you have a somewhat thick velvety sauce, add the rest of the ingredients and taste it.  Readjust the seasonings as necessary and then congratulate yourself on a job well done.  Keep the sauce warm but never hot and never continue using after 60-90 minutes at most.  Begin fresh as it is important not to keep it too long.  Eggs are one of the things that the organisms that cause foodborne illness love so never keep hollandaise sauce when you are through with it. 
8.     NOTE: Now the big problem with sauces of the Hollandaise family is holding temperature. Technically, anything in the danger zone (above 45° F and below 140° F is considered dangerous. However, you cannot hold these sauces at the temperature because the heat will break the emulsion. Therefore, we set them close to the steam table to try to keep them warm and make more during the night as we can but that is not always easy. I am telling you this just so that you as a consumer in the public know what is up.
Living in Hawaii is an exciting thing for a chef as it allows one to experiment and to blend different cuisines together.  To me, the fusion of the Polynesian cuisine with the Classical French Cuisine is a no-brainer and this sauce is but the first in a long line of tropical hollandaise sauces ranging from papaya to lilikoi.
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FRANK ZAPPA PLAYS THE MUSIC OF FRANK ZAPPA

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STRICTLY GENTEEL—A CLASSICAL INTRODUCTION

          To buy paintings, recipes, or full article series, please send us your information by mailing us at P.O. Box #20669, Bakersfield, CA, 93309-0669.  You can call about paintings at 661-834-5185; we will take all calls and provide to you as much information as is available.  It is time that we begin taking the next step and to immortalize Beverly Carrick for eternity and begin moving towards the establishment of a website of our own! God bless each single one of you amongst our fan base!
CUCAMONGA

 

          There it is another Hump Day over and done and time marches on and I am that much closer to Circus-Circus in Las Vegas!  I’m telling you, Hawaiian Fathers, with the amount of money flowing to the east instead of remaining home; I cannot imagine what great works could be funded with the lost money!  Sure, we must always worry about crime but then, it’s not as if the Yakuza is not already alive and well in our homeland.  We also have the drug cartels here, too, and God knows what else roams our lands along with the Night Marchers and all the rest of the superstitious things with which, we concern ourselves.  I am telling you, if I did not have to come to Bakersfield to do my part in the blog, I would not be going to Nevada; my money would stay at home lining the pockets of the politicians who hang around with outstretched palms.   We have way more graft here in the Hawaiian Islands than anyone is led to believe, it’s not like what you see on the reborn Hawaii Five-Oh, that’s a bunch of crap!  Excuse me, I mean, “crud.”  Buy some Mothers of Invention and Fleetwood Mac albums!              

 
CHEAP THRILLS

Anyhow, let us close with this impassioned plea—please leave some comments and/or become a follower and why not spend some money and purchase an album by Frank Zappa and the Mothers of Invention and/or buy a cookbook from Amazon.com—we want to make some money here so help us out by buying something!  Allied with them, we are pleased to market their merchandise!  Amazon.com is one of the greatest—if not the ultimate greatest!—online department stores in which, one can find almost everything on the planet.  We love them and they love us and we want all of you to visit them daily, take advantage of their deals on everything from kitchen equipment to cookbooks, CDs, DVDs, and everything else a person could want.  Everything you buy from them puts money into our pockets, which allows us to keep this fine blog up-and-running 24/7/365!  God bless America and God bless Amazon.com!

Thank you!

Lilah Paulikovich

Lilah Paulikovich

Pastry Chef, ACF, CEC, CPC, Les Amis de Escoffier Society

_______________________________________________________________________
This is I as a young chef in the mid 1960's when I was working at the Maui Prince Hotel. I apprenticed under some of the best European chefs back in the day and met Stinkbug, our mentor, on Maui in 1990. Presently, I am working up in Kula at one of the restaurants high up on Haleakala—it is a glorious life!

Chef Lilah Paulikovich writes from Kula, Maui, Hawaii.

Chef Lilah is a proud member of the Republican Party.
---30---

The AICP-END Commentary for Thursday, March 28, 2013 by Chef Lilah Paulikovich

 

 

Please note that everyone who writes for the Elemental News of the Day is their own person entitled to their own opinions, attitudes, and insanity so does not necessarily speak for all of us.  Thanks, Stinkbug.

REFERENCES:

The one-and-only Chef Lilah Paulikovich wrote this original essay.

 

Recipe created by Chef Lilah Paulikovich on October 05, 1990 in Kahului, Maui.

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This is #0160, a 36” x 48" original oil painting by Beverly Carrick entitled, “Desert Wind." It is among her more beautiful works and is available for sale. You can see much more of her work at her Website, located at http://www.beverlycarrick.com or at Brian Carrick's Facebook page. At her Website, you will see not only more original oil paintings but also lithographs, giclees, prints, miniatures, photographs, and even her award-winning instructional video entitled, "Painting the Southwest with Beverly Carrick." Beverly has been painting for more than 60 years and known around the world for both the beauty and timelessness of her artworks. Hanging in private and public galleries and followed by many fans encircling the globe—her works instill awe because of her artistic brilliance and personal beauty. We urge you to go to her Website NOW and view her work. It is possible that you will find something you like and will want to buy it for yourself, a friend, a loved one, or a neighbor! You will not be disappointed so please: do yourself a favor and go there IMMEDIATELY! Thank you, the Elemental News of the Day!

Beverly Carrick: the World’s Greatest Artist (1927-2012)!

Pictures #0000-0395

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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NOTE: EVERYONE WHO WRITES FOR THE ELEMENTAL NEWS OF THE DAY DOES SO UNDER AN ALIAS DUE TO FREQUENT OPINIONS THAT MIGHT NOT ALWAYS BE ACCEPTABLE AT THEIR PLACES OF EMPLOYMENT. PLEASE NOTE, TOO, THAT RECIPES ARE BROKEN DOWN FROM INSTITUTIONAL SIZES, WHICH MEANS THEY DO NOT ALWAYS TRANSLATE PROPERLY AND SEEN AS SUCH.  THANK YOU, Moses Scharbug III.

 

 

 
The above icon is the “Trademark of Quality and Symbol of Integrity/Logo” of the Magnolia Hilltop Brewers and of What's Cookin' Productions. This article is copyrighted © 03-20-2013, all rights reserved. Unauthorized reproductions of anything on this blog site, including written material and photographs, are permissible unless granted in writing by Moses Scharbug or Stinkbug. Thank you, the Elemental News of the Day.

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NOTE FROM MOSES SCHARBUG III, ASSISTANT EDITOR:

Okay, that is going to do it for today, friends, so now, let us move on to the closing words we normally share with you every day: please, I suggest you save these recipes by bookmarking them online or by writing to us and telling, us which recipes you would like mailed to you.  Each one costs $1.50, a dollar for the recipe and $0.50 for the shipping.  If you buy all three, simply enclose a check or money order for $3.00 otherwise, it is more expensive for just a single recipe.  Be sure to tell us the number of the recipe in which, you are interested so we can ship it to you posthaste!  Thank you for your interest and if you wish, $10.00 will get you ONE week’s worth of recipes, starting on Monday and going through Sunday.  Should you wish the entire Special Menus Index 2011 Easter Brunch Menu’s recipes, simply send us $25.00 and you will get every recipe sent to you via USPS First Class Mail.  International orders take U.S. Money Orders! Moses Scharbug III, Assistant Editor.

 

 
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Tags:

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THANK YOU MARY LOU GUNN FOR TERMINATING RALPH BAILEY, JR. AND FOR GIVING US MARK LEVIN AT HIS PROPER TIME, 3:00 P.M. MONDAY-FRIDAY!

 
NOTE—WE SUPPORT JAZ MCKAY AND MR. PUCK OF KNZR 1560 A.M. RADIO IN BAKERSFIELD, CA, BECOMING A SYNDICATED, NATIONWIDE RADIO SHOW! THE MAN IS ONE OF THE ALL-TIME GREATS AND DESERVES TO BE RECOGNIZED FOR HIS CONTRIBUTIONS TO TALK RADIO, THE CONSERVATIVE CAUSE, AND PLAIN COMMON SENSE! THANK YOU!

 

PLEASE LISTEN TO KAOI 1110 AM and 96.7 FM ON MAUI, HAWAII—YOU CAN CATCH IT ONLINE OR LIVE ON THE RADIO! THEY COVER CONSERVATIVE TOPICS WITH THE EXCEPTION OF ED SCHULTZ AND THE NFL!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

CHEF LILAH PAULIKOVICH
MADE IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA! WE SUPPORT THE MILITARY OF THE UNITED STATES AND THAT OF ITS ALLIES AROUND THE GLOBE!

 

Thank you for joining me today at the New Elemental News of the Day, I appreciate your company and hope that you bring your friends, family, neighbors, coworkers, and relatives the next time you visit!

 

 

 

 
BUYCHEAP THRILLSBY FRANK ZAPPA AT AMAZON.COM NOW!

 

 

The Chef’s Culinary Nightmare: Our Muse…

 

 

 

  Beverly Carrick Original Paintings Price List:

 

  1. Size 36” x 72”…………………………………………………………. $18,000.00.
  2. Size 40” x 60”…………………………………………………………. $15,450.00.
  3. Size 36” x 48”…………………………………………………………. $11,500.00.
  4. Size 30” x 40”…………………………………………………………. $ 9,900.00.
  5. Size 24” x 48”…………………………………………………………. $ 9,000.00.
  6. Size 24” x 36”…………………………………………………………. $ 8,240.00.
  7. Size 24” x 30”…………………………………………………………$ 7,600.00.
  8. Size 20” x 24”…………………………………………………………$ 5,950.00.
  9. Size 18” x 24”…………………………………………………………$ 5,950.00.
  10. Size 16” x 20”…………………………………………………………$ 5,400.00.
  11. Size 12” x 24” …....................................................................................$ 5,400.00.
  12. Size 12” x 16”….....................................................................................$ 4,500.00.
  13. Size 11” x 14”…………………………………………………………$ 4,500.00.
  14. Size 9” x 12” …………………………………………………………. $ 1,200.00.
  15. Size 8” x 10” …………………………………………………………. $ 1,000.00.

GUN SALESMAN OF THE YEAR: PRESIDENT BARACK H. OBAMA!
TODAY IN HISTORY—MARCH 28, 2013:

  1. ----:


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