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Friday, November 16, 2012

“Special Menus Index, Part LXIX: Thanksgiving 2012 Dinner Menu—the Bread Seminar is Today’s Topic with a Spectacular Recipe for Buckwheat Fantans—Deliciously Dark Dinner Rolls” by Chef Elmer K. “the Hooter” Hootenstein



The BUFFALO SPRINGFIELD was one of the short-lived bands of the 1960s that came onto the scene in a major way and featured three masterful musicians, destined for success later: Stephen Stills, Neil Young, and Richie Furay.  Their first album, “The Buffalo Springfield,” appeared on record store shelves in 1966 and was an immediate smash.  It features the anthem of the 1960s, “For What it’s Worth,” and an album you definitely will want to buy so please take the convenient link to Amazon.com and buy it NOW! Thank you!




COUNTDOWN TO THE END OF THE MAYAN CALENDAR


Here is the countdown to December 21, 2012: from today, we have 37 days to go until the End of Days, the End of Time, Armageddon, and the End of the Mayan Calendar!  Everybody, beware!



STINKBUG 2012





Chef Elmer K. “the Hooter” Hootenstein

END Commentary 11-17-2012

Copyright © 2012 by MHB Productions

Word Count: 3,081.



AMERICAN INSTITUTE OF CULINARY POLITICS



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Elemental News of the Day Commentary-Opinion-Sports-Foodservice for Saturday, November 17, 2012 by Chef Elmer K. “the Hooter” Hootenstein





SPECIAL MENUS INDEX, PART LXIX

Special Menus Index, Part LXIX: Thanksgiving 2012 Dinner Menu—the Bread Seminar  is Today’s Topic with a Spectacular Recipe for Buckwheat Fantans—Deliciously Dark Dinner Rolls” by Chef Elmer K. “the Hooter” Hootenstein



Bakersfield, CA, 11-17-2012 S: Saturday is here and that to me is what it is all about, entering the weekend and then getting off, going home, and resting for a few days.  Today, we are going to jump into the BREAD SEMINAR portion of our Thanksgiving 2012 Menu and that means that today, we are making our FANTAN ROLLS, one of the trickier bread formulas ever made until you know how to do it.   The trick is in the folds in much the same way that a croissant is in the folds, it is how you form the dough and how you work butter into the dough’s interior.  This makes them light, flaky, and delicious and even though it might seem somewhat confusing at first, it actually becomes simple meaning that even Great-Grandma can make them.  It requires a professional rolling pin as the small ones you buy at the grocery store are practically worthless as one cannot force a great deal of power into the process of rolling out the dough.  Therefore, you should take the trip to your local restaurant supply store and buy the proper rolling pin and the proper muffin pans as we use them for this recipe.   Pay close attention to the instructions and be at ease because we have diagrams of how to do it taken from an old illustration that Chef Brian Carrick used at the Bakersfield Californian newspaper back in the mid-1980s.  We have updated some of it due to wear and tear of the original newsprint whereas other portions of it are in the original newsprint form.  Brad Pollard was the staff artist for the newspaper at the time and he deserves the credit for the original drawings whereas famed artist and our benefactor, Beverly Carrick, did the updated versions.   

  In addition, it is good to note that we also use BUCKWHEAT FLOUR as the basis for this noteworthy roll due to is amazing color, flavor, texture, and appearance and it is a stunning roll when taken to the dinner table.  They are so dark, they almost seem to be BLACK and this leads people to thinking that the host has given them dark rye dinner rolls, something of which not everyone is fond.  I think that when you have opportunity to make them, you will be quite pleased and that they will indeed become a part of your ongoing repertoire. 

Here is the menu for this year’s holiday, which, by the way, takes place NEXT week on Thursday, November 22, 2012:

THANKSGIVING 2012 DINNER MENU

LE MENU:

I.                #1701 Cranberry Gelatin Salad

II.              #1702 Fruit Slaw with Fruit Dressing

III.            #1703 Sea Foam Salad

IV.            #1704 Cream of Red Potato Soup with Chives

V.              #1705 Roasted Turkey with Maple-Orange Glaze

VI.            #958 Turkey Dressing with Wild Rice

VII.         #1705 Turkey Gravy II

VIII.       #847 English Roasted Potatoes

IX.            #1025 Sauteed Red Swiss Chard

X.              #931 Huntsman’s Pilaf

XI.            #1710 Rosemary Brussels Sprouts and Carrots

XII.          #0134 Buckwheat Fantans

XIII.       #1706 Russian Romanoff Custard with Whipped Cream

Buckwheat flour is one of the classier as well as historic flours brought to the New World by Russian and Eastern European immigrants when they journeyed to the shores of North America.  It is a staple in their diets and found in a variety of coffee shops, diners, and restaurants across the nation, usually in the form of Buckwheat Pancakes.  Its texture is creamy-smooth and when combined at a ratio of 1:5 with bread flour or whole-wheat flour, it produces an amazingly delicious bread, one that knocks everyone out.  I have seen it predominantly in the Midwest of the nation but also on the West Coast and I assume that it is also available in the East.  Anyhow, it is one you will love and here it is:

Here is the dough recipe:

(#0134) BUCKWHEAT FANTANS



Buckwheat is a delicious “specialty flour” meaning that it is a non-wheat-based flour coming from its own particular grain.  It is beautiful in color, extremely dark, tasty, and wonderful with which to work and a joy to eat.  These rolls are amazingly tasty and people are stunned when they discover they are not eating a dark rye but a flavorful grain, which most do not know or recognize.  

Yield:  10-15 rolls / Mis-en-place: 1-1.25 hours:




Qty.
Measure
Item
Other
.125
Cup
Tepid water (105°-115°F)

1
Ounce
Fleischman’s fresh cake yeast

.25
Cup
Warm milk

.25
Cup
Black coffee
Warm
1
Large
AA egg
Beaten & strained
3/16
Cup
Grandma’s molasses

1.5
teaspoons
Kosher salt

.25
Cup
Vegetable oil

.75
cup
Bob’s Red Mill buckwheat flour

2
Cups +
Bread flour

Clarified butter

Yellow cornmeal

The Eggwash and the Finish:
1
Large
AA egg
Beaten & strained
.125
Cup
Cold water

More clarified butter



Crisco Pan Spray: “the Chef’s Friend.”


Method:

1.     Mis-en-place: have everything ready with which to work!  Hook up your Kitchen Aid (small) or Hobart (large) mixer and outfit it with the dough hook attachment.  Add the tepid water, the yeast, and mixing on low speed, dissolve them together.  Cover the bowl with a towel and leave it in a somewhat warm place—but not hot!—and allow it to rest for 10-15 minutes.  Bakers such as me call this “proofing the yeast” and it allows you to spare yourself a great deal of grief by ascertaining as to whether or not your yeast is ready to use.  Sometimes, yeast is unusable for a variety of reasons so we “proof it” by allowing it to rest in the tepid BUT NOT HOT water.  When time’s up, if you see a plethora of bubbles atop the water, the yeast is ready for work and if not, get some fresh yeast.  NOTE: during colder months, it may take longer than 10-15 minutes but never place the mixing bowl directly next to a HOT heat source, just near it.

2.     Add the milk, coffee, first egg, molasses, salt, and oil and blend well on low speed.  Then, add the buckwheat flour to the mixing bowl and then the bread flour.  Gradually scale in the bread flour along the sides of the bowl as the hook rotates slowly around the bowl.   Depending upon the humidity in the kitchen, the amount of warmth, and the quality of the flour, it may take the measure specified or it may take more.  The idea is to continue adding flour—slowly!—until the dough climbs onto the mixing hook and remains there for 40-60 seconds while it rotates on low speed. 

3.     Normally, the dough climbs aboard the hook numerous times and then pulls itself back off before reattaching itself once more.  Continue adding bread flour until it does what I have mentioned: climbs onto the hook and remains there, pulling itself off the sides of the bowl and onto the hook as it rotates slowly around the interior of the mixing bowl.  The dough tells you when it is ready and this is the ONLY imprecise part of making yeast bread dough.  In addition to that, when working with specialty flours such as buckwheat flour, it does not have enough gluten of its own to make strong bread so we must add bread flour, which contains much more gluten than any other flour, to form proper dough. 

4.     When the dough has done as mentioned, remove it from the bowl onto a lightly floured work surface.  Quickly knead it by rolling it out and then pulling it back over upon itself before rolling it into a ball.  Repeat this process several times as this is necessary for kick-starting the dough’s gluten development.   When the dough feels as though it is a living thing, soft yet strong, elastic yet firm, stop kneading it and transfer it directly to a lightly floured bowl about twice the size of the dough. 

5.     Cover the dough with a dampened towel and place somewhere warm BUT NOT HOT such as a high kitchen shelf or in an unused oven.   Allow it to double in size, which it should do within 20-30 minutes.  Roll doughs typically develop fast and if the weather’s warm as well as the kitchen, it might happen sooner than specified.

6.     During this time, do TWO things: (1) set up for the BRICK METHOD, which follows, and (2) prepare the pan(s) and oven.

THE BRICK METHOD

Professional bakeries use steam-injected ovens, which increase the “spring” of their yeast breads.  Never use this technique for quickbreads or muffins—ONLY for yeast breads. 

The term, “oven spring” is one used by bakers around the world and it means that when the risen raw dough—either loaves or rolls—is placed inside one’s preheated convection oven, it jumps the moment the fan is switched “on.” Bakeries use steam-injected convection ovens, which allow them to (1) increase the size of their yeast breads through the phenomenon of “oven spring” as well as (2) hardening the outer crusts through the injection of steam at a crucial moment at the start of the baking process. 

Normally, loaves traditionally bake in standard ovens but bakeries tend to bake both loaves and rolls in convection ovens because it increases their size once you turn the fan "on."   Bakers at home generally do not have convection ovens unless they have either a Jenn-Aire Range or restaurant equipment. However, most restaurant bakers have convection ovens but do NOT have steam-injection capacity so it is convenient for them to use the Brick Method, too, as I have done over the course of my entire career.  Therefore, if one wants to bake like a professional bakery in a bakery, they must use this method:

This is how it works: first, buy 3-4 firebricks at your local hardware store and if at home, buy a metal half hotel pan from the local restaurant supply store.  While making your bread dough, heat the bricks on the stovetop (gas is best) as well as a pot of hot water.  Then, when your yeast loaves are proofing and ALMOST ready to hit the preheated oven, approximately 5 minutes before they are due to enter it place the metal pan on the oven floor. Then, place 1-2 HOT bricks within it using heavy gloves, and then standing back so as to avoid the sudden upward-rising blast of hot steam, pour the water over the bricks. Then, slam the door shut and allow the oven to steam for at least 5 minutes.

When the proofed bread is ready to go in, place it atop the middle oven rack of the steam-injected oven and shut the door immediately.  Allow them to bathe within the steam for at least 5 minutes and if using a convection oven, throw the switch “on” after 1-2 minutes and watch the loaves or rolls JUMP UP.  After a total of five minutes, remove the pan, the bricks, and whatever—if any—water remains and continue baking until baked.

I discovered this method years ago when I first read about “oven spring” in a baker’s book from the 1950’s.  I talked to professional bread bakers outside of restaurants and they explained the process to me.  I began employing it, discovered fantastic test results, and have used it both on the job and at home for at least 25 years.  You can obtain similar results and have success with your baking by employing it, just remember to be extremely careful!

7.     Preheat a standard oven to 400°F or a convection oven—fan “off” until required—to 375°F.  Use small muffin pan(s) with quarter-cup size cups.  Spray them heavily with PAM or some such other food release spray as well as the top(s) of the pan(s).  Then, lightly dust the cups with yellow cornmeal and set aside.

8.     When the dough rises double its bulk, remove the bowl, punch it down, and pull it out onto a lightly floured work surface.   With the aid of a rolling pin, roll the dough out in a rectangular roughly one-quarter-of-an-inch thick.  

9.     Using the clarified butter and a pastry brush, brush the top surface of the dough with a light coating of butter. 

10. Now, fold the LEFT side over HALFWAY until it meets the middle then stop; brush the upper left side with clarified butter. 

11. Next, fold the RIGHT side over until it covers the left side and once again, you have a rectangle of dough before you.  Now, turn the dough “package” one-quarter turn to the LEFT and roll out again.

12. Butter the dough’s upper surface once more.  Now, fold BOTH the RIGHT and the LEFT sides over until they meet in the center and then butter the LEFT side. 

13. Fold the RIGHT side over onto the LEFT side and then turn it one-quarter-turn to the LEFT once more.  Roll it out until it is about ONE-QUARTER-of-an-inch thick again.  Roll it briefly out a bit, left-to-right and right-to-left. 

14. Cut the dough package into strips about an inch thick.  Now, cut the strips into FANTAN ROLLS about 1.5-inches thick.  Finally, turn them “up” and place them into the prepared cups so that the lines are facing you.  They will do this if you turn them “up” once you cut the strips into individual pieces. 

15. Cover the pan(s) with dry cloths and place somewhere warm to proof like the unused oven or the high kitchen shelves once more.  The rolls generally rise quickly so during this time, have the BRICK METHOD preparation underway and combine the second beaten and strained egg with the measure of cold water. 

16. As soon as the rolls have doubled in bulk, remove the cloths and gently brush them with the eggwash.  Place the pan(s) onto the middle oven rack(s) taking care to avoid the uppermost rack and close the door.  As the oven was prepared with steam, allow it to swirl around the rolls for a minute or so (or longer if not using the convection oven) and then flip the switch of the convection into the “ON” position.

17. Keep the bricks in there for as long as the specified time under the “Brick Method” and then pull them out when time is up.  Bake the rolls for 18-24 minutes or until they are lightly browned on their tops and firm to the touch.  By firm, I mean that they are no longer doughy but feel like rolls.  If you need to be sure, cut one with a knife and peer inside or remove one of the center rows and if you see lightly browned bottoms, they are ready, pull them out, and place them atop a cooling rack. 

18. Begin brushing them with the second measure of clarified butter immediately.  As you do so and as they continue cooling, they are going to develop an amazingly beautiful sheen.  Continue brushing on-and-off for a minute or two until you use up all of the butter. 

19. Gently rap the edge(s) of the pan(s) and depan the rolls.  Immediately serve them or transfer them to a bun warmer for use during meals.  These are remarkable rolls and should you have leftovers, seal them in airtight Zip-Loc freezer bags and freeze.  Do these ONLY when they are totally cool lest residual moisture ruin them inside the bags.  Use within 1-2 days for best results.

These are beautiful rolls and easy to make. 

--------------------------------------------

As always, we have a great time around here and that is why we want all of you to become a part of the organization by submitting articles to us for inspection and full-credit.  It is a great thing if you would do this, as it is a symbiotic relationship: we give you the space to share your recipes and in return, you send us more and more people who will become dedicated followers of the END.  Currently of multi-diversity across the Internet, it is important that we hear the voices of more and more people from all walks of the foodservice profession —join us. We urge our readership to write to us, leave comments, and if there are any of you, who would care to write an article for us, please get in touch via Magnolia Hilltop Brewers, P.O. Box 20669, Bakersfield, CA 93390-0669.  We obviously do not pay anything but give YOU full byline and that, my friends, is worth its weight in gold.  We want as many people who want to write to be able to do so and we believe that by presenting a forum for our fellow chefs, we are doing something for our beloved industry.  We love diversity and hope to add new and different authors to our pantheon of chefs, food and beverage directors, and culinary professionals.  Come on and join us, it will be fun! Expect that when all of us have run through our cycle, we will be introducing some brand-new talent or so Stinky says.

Please remember to avoid doing business with AARC Technology in Bakersfield, CA.  These people do not care about the small customer anymore but instead put all of their attentions onto their corporate customers. It is sad to not remember why one has the success they do or from where it came. Nowadays, we promote the Nerds on Call computer service, these people are phenomenal and we want you to seek service from them!

          Tomorrow is it and then I’m over, done, and out of here.  I hope that the ideas presented this week so far have caused interest in doing something new, which, to me, is always a wise and intelligent course to take.  I mean, after eating the same thing each holiday since being born until I left for the world of foodservice at age 15, I grew tired of it.  It was always roasted turkey, baked ham, sage dressing, mashed potatoes, green peas, pumpkin and mincemeat pies, you name it, that’s what the family ate and if one doesn’t become tired during that time, one has absolutely NO imagination nor desire to deviate from the standard sphere of comfort foods.  I, however, love to shake things up and that is precisely what we’ve done this past week.                                                

Therefore, let us close with this impassioned plea—please leave some comments and/or become a follower and why not spend some money and purchase an album by BUFFALO SPRINGFIELD and/or buy a cookbook from Amazon.com—we want to make some money here so help us out by buying something!  Allied with them, we are pleased to market their merchandise! See you next time around! Bye!  

Thank you!

Elmer K. Hootenstein

Elmer K. Hootenstein

CWC, ACF, the Golden State Chefs’ Association

________________________________________________________________________
This is I in a group shot that was a collage on a chef's magazine cover from the 1980's. They took this picture of me in the mid 1970's when I was working as a Food and Beverage Director at a hotel in Fresno, California. I later came to Washington State where I met Stinkbug in the WSCA. We have been friends ever since.





The Hooter writes from Los Angeles, CA.

---30---

The END Commentary for Saturday, November 17, 2012 by Chef Elmer K. “the Hooter” Hootenstein



Please note that everyone who writes for the Elemental News of the Day is their own person entitled to their own opinions, attitudes, and insanity so does not necessarily speak for all of us.  Thanks, Stinkbug.

REFERENCES:

The one-and-only Chef Elmer K. “the Hooter” Hootenstein wrote this original essay.



Recipe created by Chef Elmer K. “the Hooter” Hootenstein on November 21, 1982 in Bakersfield, CA, created the original recipe whereas I adopted his and increased the quantity)

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This is #0029, a 12” x 16" original oil painting by Beverly Carrick entitled, “Calistoga Autumn." It is among her more beautiful works and is available for sale. You can see much more of her work at her Website, located at http://www.beverlycarrick.com or at Brian Carrick's Facebook page. At her Website, you will see not only more original oil paintings but also lithographs, giclees, prints, miniatures, photographs, and even her award-winning instructional video entitled, "Painting the Southwest with Beverly Carrick." Beverly has been painting for more than 60 years and known around the world for both the beauty and timelessness of her artworks. Hanging in private and public galleries and followed by many fans encircling the globe—her works instill awe because of her artistic brilliance and personal beauty. We urge you to go to her Website NOW and view her work. It is possible that you will find something you like and will want to buy it for yourself, a friend, a loved one, or a neighbor! You will not be disappointed so please: do yourself a favor and go there IMMEDIATELY! Thank you, the Elemental News of the Day!

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