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Friday, October 5, 2012

“Soup Seminar, Part XXXVI: Chef Carrick does it again: another Great Clam Chowder Recipe, this Time featuring the Holy Grail of Chowder Recipes, the Famed Stockdale Country Club New England Clam Chowder—the Best in the World” by Chef Brian Craig Carrick



Today, we continue offering albums by SANTANA, both as a group bearing his name and as a solo artist.  Santana’s twenty-eighth group album, “Best Instrumentals,” came out in May 1998, yet another good group album featuring the best of the best up-to-date, brought the magic of this man to an entirely new audience!  No matter what direction Carlos Santana and his band go in, it is always great!  Please go to Amazon.com right this minute and BUY it by using the convenient link above!






COUNTDOWN TO THE END OF THE MAYAN CALENDAR



Here is the countdown to December 21, 2012: from today, we have 79 days to go until the End of Days, the End of Time, Armageddon, and the End of the Mayan Calendar!  Everybody, beware!



STINKBUG 2012





Chef Brian Craig Carrick

END Commentary 10-06-2012

Copyright © 2012 by MHB Productions

Word Count: 2,339.



AMERICAN INSTITUTE OF CULINARY POLITICS



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Elemental News of the Day Commentary-Opinion-Sports-Foodservice for Saturday, October 06, 2012 by Chef Brian Craig Carrick



SOUP SEMINAR, PT XXXVI—BAKERSFIELD’S STOCKDALE COUNTRY CLUB’S CLAM CHOWDER—INSTITUTIONAL SIZES

Soup Seminar, Part XXXVI: Chef Carrick does it again: another Great Clam Chowder Recipe, this Time featuring the Holy Grail of Chowder Recipes, the Famed Stockdale Country Club New England Clam Chowder—the Best in the World” by Chef Brian Craig Carrick



Bakersfield, CA, 10-06-2012 S: I am pleased to be here once more, the weekend beckons us and so far, I have committed no errors in the way our friend, Chef Gervais did several weeks ago to earn another week.  To me, that is the mark of success, it is like achieving the vaunted black hat and moving into the realm of a very secluded inner circle of culinarians.  I apprenticed as a kid, was forever the youngest cook in any kitchen until the late 1990s and once I entered the present century, and I became an elder statesman of sorts.  The sad thing is, none of these infantile punks, grown up watching reality TV shows about cooks such as Gordon Ramsay and a whole host of others, had any appreciation for my accomplishments.  The things I learned in the early decades of my culinary career have stuck with me throughout life and I am loathe to ever buy premade desserts, breads, or soups.  That is why we continue today with more excitingly delicious and wonderful soups with the best of the best chowders: Stockdale Country Club New England Clam Chowder, the best ever made anywhere in the nation, one I would put up against any other reality television chef anywhere in the fricking world.

You see, back in the day, we made things using the basic ingredients so if we made clam chowder, we cooked off the clam shells and fish scraps that remained in our kitchens instead of throwing them out—either out back in the dumpster or down the garbage disposal—and used them.   Therefore, what I want to do today is to first give you a recipe for Fish Stock (Recipe #0217) and then move onto the greatest clam chowder the world has ever seen, one created by Bakersfield-fixture, Master Chef Andre Anastay at Maisson Jusseau’s French Restaurant on Union Avenue back in the late 1940’s.  Later, I took the recipe from present chef at the Club, Juan Aguirre, when I worked there from 1981 through 1989.  It took them years before they trusted me enough to teach me the ropes so I had to watch and write it down every time I had an opportunity to watch how Chef Juan and Executive Sous Chef Augustine Salazar prepared it.  This is the stock, then the soup:

This is another variation of fish stock, one you can put together as the fishmonger cuts his or her fish in the back kitchen.  We transfer everything to a stockpot and then prepare as directed.  Once cooled, it can be frozen in small batches in sanitized containers and brought out when needed.  Fish stock is an important ingredient in the kitchen and should always be made fresh rather than to rely solely on a bouillon base such as the Better than Bouillon-brand or similar one. Always use a base to make a stock or sauce better but never by itself, if you do, are you defeating the purpose of the matter, the purpose being to utilize fresh ingredients in every way possible, even the scraps and the trim.

Yield:  about one quart / Mis-en-place: 1-1.5 hours:




Qty.
Measure
Item
Other
2
#
Fish trim, skeletons, heads, tails, etc

2
Quarts
Water

2
Quarts
Chardonnay 

1
Cup
Carrot trimmings

1
Cup
Chopped white onions

2
Cups
Chopped celery, leaves, roots, etc.
Rinsed
1.5
Teaspoons
Dried thyme

3
Each
Bay leaves

1
Bunch
Parsley

1
Teaspoon
White peppercorns

1
Tablespoon
Better-than-Bouillon fish or clam base

1
Each
Lemon, halved


Always squeeze out as much excess green color from fresh parsley before incorporating it into a white sauce or soup.

Method:

1.      Mis-en-place: have everything ready with which to work! Combine all ingredients in a saucepot and place over a medium-high flame.  Bring to a simmer but DO NOT boil.  Reduce the heat to low and allow it to reduce for an hour or so until you have approximately ONE quart of liquid; then, strain out the debris through the use of a double-Chinois lined with a clean towel and then pour through the washed and rinsed chinois lined with cheesecloth into a sanitized pan or hotel pan. 

2.      Place atop a cooling rack and allow an oscillating fan to blow across its surface to hasten the cooling process.  Reduce the heat to below 45°F as quickly as possible and then transfer to a sanitized storage container to finish cooling it in your refrigerator.  Transfer it into individual Styrofoam storage containers equipped with tight-fitting lids and then label the contents and date it for when made.  You can freeze this for use at a later time or use it now. Do not refrigerate for longer than a day or two in your fridge; otherwise, you will have to toss it out.

3.      Note: should you care to make it into fish fume, prepare a floating island out of egg whites and allow it to circle about the top of the heated liquid on the stove in a saucepot.  The purpose of this classic French trick is for the meringue-like egg whites to collect each one of the impurities that lurk within the stock.  Never dispense with this critical step! Always strive for perfection!

Fish stocks are important if one works in a foodservice business in which large amounts of fresh fish are prepared weekly and if they make clam chowder, then it is essential to be able to make fish stock out of the scraps and trim.  Never toss anything out; always utilize everything to its fullest potential.

Now, we move onto the soup, itself, perhaps the most delicious Clam Chowder ever tasted and in an institutional size:

(#605) STOCKDALE CLAM CHOWDER—INSTITUTIONAL SIZE


The Stockdale Country Club of Bakersfield, California, is perhaps one of the finest and oldest country clubs in the state and has been the epitome of world culinary thought for close to one hundred years.  This chowder is famous in the area; it has been in existence for more than half-a-century, created by the great French Chef, Andre Anastay, a mainstay in the Southern San Joaquin Valley for close to a century.  Over the course of the past forty years, this is by far, the BEST clam chowder recipe ever seen and I recommend it to everyone who wants to make and to taste the best.  Keep this one in your books and you will use it for a lifetime.

NOTE: the idea here is that if you haven’t the clam juice or wish to conserve your money, you substitute the fish stock for the clam juice and increase the Clam Base.  This is how we maximize our food usage and increase our profits and also put a personal indelible stamp of our own upon the finished product!

1. About SIX gallons / Mis-en-Place: 1.5-1.75 hours 




Qty.
Measure
Item
Other
9
#
Fresh or frozen clams

1.125
Gallons
Gorton’s clam juice

.75
#
Better-than-Bouillon clam base

7.5
#
Peeled and cubed Russet Potatoes

6
Quarts
Water

3
Quarts
Reserved potato water

7.5
Cups
Melted butter

3
Quarts
Chopped yellow onions

3
Quarts
Chopped celery

4.5
Tablespoons
Kosher salt

1
Tablespoon
White pepper

3
Tablespoons
Whole thyme

12
Each
Bay leaves

7.5
Cups
All-purpose flour

6-9
Quarts
Heavy cream

.75
Cup
Freshly minced parsley
Rinsed and dried
Hungarian paprika





Method:

1.      Combine the first TWO items in (preferably) a steamer and cook until the liquid has about doubled more or less; otherwise, simmer in a pot and add water to bring it back to about the same amount more or less.  While you are doing this, add the clam base.

2.      Simmer the potatoes in the water and add water if need to be to end up with the RESERVED amount of water required in the recipe.  Cook the potatoes al dente, do not overcook or you will end up with MASHED potatoes.

3.      Place the butter in a large saucepot and set over a medium-flame.  When it is hot, add and sauté the yellow onions and the celery along with the salt, white pepper, thyme, and bay leaves.  Add the flour, form a roux, and cook it for about 4-5 minutes or until well developed and flavorful.

4.      Return the potato water to the roux and bring up the temperature on the pot.  Add the clams, clam juice, and blend well.  Cook for several minutes to judge the thickness of the chowder.  If it is super-thick, add more cream and if less thick, add less cream.  Once you add the cream, lower the heat to a low simmer and allow perking until ready to serve.  Too high a temperature will cause the cream to discolor and thereby make the chowder look less appetizing.

5.      To serve, add the freshly minced parsley and sprinkle each soup cup or bowl with a sprinkle of Hungarian paprika. Enjoy!

6.      To prepare the soup for storage, always pour it into a baking dish and place it atop a cooling rack, using an oscillating fan, if necessary, to bring its internal temperature to below 42°F as quickly as possible.   Then, when it is cool, transfer it to the refrigerator, covering its surface with wax paper sprayed with PAM, PAM-side-DOWN to prevent skin formation.  Finally, when very cool, transfer it into sanitized airtight containers equipped with tight-fitting lids, label, date, and keep refrigerated at or below 45°F at all times. 

7.      Never return used portions of soup to the parent batch as this might cause foodborne illness occurring which is not something anyone wants.  Always reheat soup in the top of a Bain Marie atop boiling water and never keep for longer than 3-4 hours in holding wells before throwing it out.  Always try to use fresh seafood soups within 3-4 days; after that, discard it and prepare fresh.

This is an old recipe with a long-standing history in Bakersfield, CA. The great French chef, Andre Anastay, who was the Executive Chef at the Stockdale Country Club for many years before turning over the reins to Executive Chef Juan Aguirre, developed it. The Chef shared this recipe with NO one who had not been there for more than 4-5 years—minimum!—so when I was taught to make it, I felt very privileged.  This is a great recipe but like all soup recipes needs, some readjustment each time we make it, as liquid content tends to differ so work with it.

--------------------------------------------

As always, we have a great time around here and that is why we want all of you to become a part of the organization by submitting articles to us for inspection and full-credit.  It is a great thing if you would do this, as it is a symbiotic relationship: we give you the space to share your recipes and in return, you send us more and more people who will become dedicated followers of the END.  Currently of multi-diversity across the Internet, it is important that we hear the voices of more and more people from all walks of the foodservice profession —join us. We urge our readership to write to us, leave comments, and if there are any of you, who would care to write an article for us, please get in touch via Magnolia Hilltop Brewers, P.O. Box 20669, Bakersfield, CA 93390-0669.  We obviously do not pay anything but give YOU full byline and that, my friends, is worth its weight in gold.  We want as many people who want to write to be able to do so and we believe that by presenting a forum for our fellow chefs, we are doing something for our beloved industry.  We love diversity and hope to add new and different authors to our pantheon of chefs, food and beverage directors, and culinary professionals.  Come on and join us, it will be fun! Expect that when all of us have run through our cycle, we will be introducing some brand-new talent or so Stinky says.

Please remember to avoid doing business with AARC Technology in Bakersfield, CA.  These people do not care about the small customer anymore but instead put all of their attentions onto their corporate customers. It is sad to not remember why one has the success they do or from where it came. Nowadays, we promote the Nerds on Call computer service, these people are phenomenal and we want you to seek service from them!

            Saturday is over and done and that allows us to move into the final day and then the master chef, himself, Stinkbug, enters the door to our corporate offices on Robert’s Lane in Oildale, California, and takes over for an entire week.  On the tenth of this month, Bea O’Malley celebrates her birthday so I will bid her congratulations now and then leave it to Stinky to continue issuing kudos and whatever else our good friend does.  Maybe he will be the one to miss HUMP DAY and will then be stuck with doing multiple weeks or quite possibly, he will begin praising Mitt Romney, begging all of you to forget he’s a Mormon and vote for him.  My wife and I are seriously considering moving to Texas as that state seems to be the only one containing any sense.  What a world we live in, friends, never have I ever seen a situation like this.  I thought I was terrified receiving my draft card in the mail in 1972 and even though they no longer were taking anyone, we still had to go through the motions.  It caused me to file for conscientious objector status, a black mark against my name seeing as how I received it but I would rather go to Vietnam back then than deal with what goes on in this country today.                       

Therefore, let us close with this impassioned plea—please leave some comments and/or become a follower and why not spend some money and purchase an album by SANTANA and/or buy a cookbook from Amazon.com—we want to make some money here so help us out by buying something!  Allied with them, we are pleased to market their merchandise! See you next time around! Bye!  

Thank you, my friends!

Brian Carrick

Brian Carrick

American Culinary Federation, Inc., Retired Member

This is me, your host, back in 1985 at a Chefs de Cuisine of Greater Bakersfield dinner in Bakersfield, CA, at one of our participating member's foodservice establishments. I began my culinary career in 1969 bussing tables at age 12 and became a cook's apprentice in 1973 at age 17. I have worked all over California, Hawaii, Washington State, and even a short time in Arizona.  I am retired now due to multiple disabilities.  I presently live in Bakersfield, CA, with my lovely new wife, the Lady Linda.

Chef Carrick writes from Oildale, CA.

---30---

The END Commentary for Saturday, October 06, 2012 by Chef Brian Craig Carrick



Please note that everyone who writes for the Elemental News of the Day is their own person entitled to their own opinions, attitudes, and insanity so does not necessarily speak for all of us.  Thanks, Stinkbug.

REFERENCES:

The one-and-only Chef Brian Craig Carrick wrote this original essay.



Recipe created by Chef Brian Carrick on May 07, 1980 in Bakersfield, CA.

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The Chef’s Culinary Nightmare: the end is indeed coming soon so beware of BOTH November 06 AND December 21, 2012!
 
 
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