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Thursday, October 11, 2012

“Side Dish Seminar, Part XXXII: Chef Stinkbug moves into Institutional-Sized Rice Dishes and presents a Portuguese Classic—Arroz a la Portuguesa” by Chef Stinkbug



Today, we continue offering albums by SANTANA, both as a group bearing his name and as a solo artist.  Santana’s thirty-fourth group album, “Shaman,” came out on April 12, 2002, and is another great example of the chameleon-like ways of Carlos Santana and his ever-changing musical styles.  Please go to Amazon.com right this minute and BUY it by using the convenient link above!






COUNTDOWN TO THE END OF THE MAYAN CALENDAR



Here is the countdown to December 21, 2012: from today, we have 73 days to go until the End of Days, the End of Time, Armageddon, and the End of the Mayan Calendar!  Everybody, beware!



STINKBUG 2012





Chef Stinkbug

END Commentary 10-12-2012

Copyright © 2012 by MHB Productions

Word Count: 2,572.



AMERICAN INSTITUTE OF CULINARY POLITICS



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Elemental News of the Day Commentary-Opinion-Sports-Foodservice for Friday, October 12, 2012 by Chef Stinkbug



SIDE DISH SEMINAR, PART XXXII—INSTITUTIONAL SIZES

Side Dish Seminar, Part XXXII: Chef Stinkbug moves into Institutional-Sized Rice Dishes and presents a Portuguese Classic—Arroz a la Portuguesa” by Chef Stinkbug



Bakersfield, CA, 10-12-2012 F: Friends, today is Friday and Murph’s Birthday, too, she was born on this day in 1957 and I need to send her the word: “Happy Birthday, Murph!” She and I shared a past together up on the Grapevine in 1978 when we worked at William Flagg’s Restaurant, a place no longer there but at one time one of the busiest restaurants in the state of California.  The Grapevine is the north-south route through the San Joaquin Valley heading north and prior to the establishment of the I-5 Interstate Route; the “99” was it.   I went to work up there and had one of the worst summers of my life, pounded night and day by the nonstop traffic heading back and forth.  I met the Murph there and we had a passionate love affair that lasted the summer until I became ill and fell out of the business for at least six months due to too much drinking, partying, and hard living.  I split up with my first wife and dumped her and her kids out in the street so I could live a disgusting but wonderful life.  Being a chef has many benefits and one of them is access to beautiful servers who all seemed to be enamored of my beautiful good looks.  I miss those days but am so glad that I still have the Murph as a friend.  Happy Birthday, Murph, I am glad you still exist in my life!

Today, we switch gears and move into rice dishes and that means we also jump into some ethnic dishes, as well.  We are making a Portuguese rice dish today, Arroz a la Portuguesa, a delicious seafood-imbued rice dish that is perfect for special dinner nights and for ethnic evenings.  When one works in country clubs and in hotels where fine dining is the rule of the day, one has opportunities to learn all sorts of different dishes and the fact that I also had opportunity to have worked with a Portuguese chef was a phenomenal coincidence.   Learning from him allowed me to obtain a level of authenticity that no one of my day could ever garner which to me, is what it is all about: standing head and shoulders above my coworkers and my competition!  Here we go:

(#0910) ARROZ A PORTUGESA—INSTITUTIONAL SIZE



Auguste Escoffier: Master Chef, 1846-1935, the “King of Chefs and Chef of Kings.”
This rice dish is one taught to me by an old, Portuguese chef, someone with whom I had the pleasure of working.  He was quite knowledgeable of the foods of the Iberian Peninsula and this was one of his dishes; great rice for special menu nights!

Yield:  30-40 servings / Mis-en-place (with stocks made): 1-1.25 hours




Qty.
Measure
Item
Other
The Liquid Component:
1
Quart
Chicken Stock #1 (Recipe #0210)
See below
3
Cups
Shellfish Stock (Recipe #0218)
See below
1
Teaspoon
Whole thyme

1
Each
Bay leaf

.5
Teaspoon
Whole marjoram

.25
Teaspoon
Crushed hot chilis

The Rice:
.5
#
Chopped raw hot sausage

2
Bunches
Coil fideo pasta (vermicelli) crushed by hand

1
Cup
Minced yellow onions

1
Quart
Jasmine rice

1
Teaspoon
Kosher salt

.5
Teaspoon
Black pepper

2
Teaspoons
Minced fresh garlic

.25
Teaspoon
Ground cumin

2
Teaspoons
Ground turmeric

Vegetable Garnish #1 (blanched in salted water):
1
Cup
Diced celery
Blanched
2
Cups
Sliced button mushrooms
Blanched
.5
Cup
Slivered chives

Vegetable Garnish #2 (sautéed):
.5
Cup
Clarified butter

2
Cups
Chopped green bells (stemmed, seeded, de-

1
Cup
Chopped red bells (stemmed, seeded, de-

1/3
Cup
Chopped black olives

.25
Cup
D’ Angelo Chianti

.125
Cup
Minced fresh garlic




Method:

1.      Mis-en-place: have everything ready with which to work! If we wish to be authentic, we must make the sauces.  We start with the Chicken Stock:

(#0210) CHICKEN STOCK #1



Yield:  2.5 gallons  / Mis-en-place: 5-6 hours:



Parsley Knot: “always make sure you press as much excess green color out of fresh parsley as otherwise, it turns white sauces and cream soups “green,” an unprofessional and undesirable attribute.”

Qty.
Measure
Item
Other
4
#
Chicken bones

1
#
White mirepoix

.125
Cup
White peppercorns

1
Tablespoon
Dry rosemary

1
Tablespoon
Dry thyme

1
Tablespoon
Ground bay leaf

1
Tablespoon
Better-than-Bouillon chicken soup base




Method:

2.      Mis-en-place: have everything ready with which to work!

3.      Place the chicken bones in a large enough saucepot to hold them and then cover with COLD water; allow to sit for 5-10 minutes and then pour the water off and discard it. 

4.      Fill the pot with cold water again and add the remaining ingredients; place it over a medium-high flame and bring to a simmer but NO higher.  Skim off any fat that rises to the surface and reduce heat to the lowest of lows.  Allow it barely to simmer for 4-5 hours, replenishing water if reduced TOO low. 

5.      When time is up, strain it through a double-Chinois lined with a clean towel into a pot.  When completely through, remove the towel and replace it with a piece of cheesecloth.  Pour the stock through it one more time into a sanitized pot.  Discard the cheesecloth and the impurities with it.  Cool the stock in a shallow pan or two atop a cooling rack.  If necessary, bring an oscillator out and have it blow directly upon it.  The purpose of this is to get the stock below 45°F as quickly as possible so that you quash any chance of foodborne illness developing. 

6.      When the stock has completely cooled, pour it into a clean, sanitized container with a tight-fitting lid and refrigerate.  If need be, divide it up and transfer it to individual Styrofoam containers, label and date as to the contents and the day you prepared it, clamp on lids and freeze for use later.

This is one of the traditional ways of preparing good-quality chicken broth.  It is a bit quicker as much like making sourdough breads; you use the chicken base to intensify and to get the process going just as we use sourdough starter to increase the power of the yeast and the starter used in making the bread.  Keep this recipe handy as there is nothing like making stock from scratch!

7.      Now, make the Lobster Broth:

(#0218) SHELLFISH STOCK





Yield:  2 quarts  / Mis-en-place: 1-2 hours:




Qty.
Measure
Item
Other
2
#
Lobster, shrimp, and/or clam shells

1
Cup
Butter

.125
Cup
Hungarian paprika

2
Quarts
Water

2
Quarts
White wine

2
Cups
Carrot trimmings

2
Cups
Chopped white onions

2
Cups
Chopped celery

1
Tablespoon
Dried thyme

3
Each
Bay leaves

1
Bunches
Parsley

1
Teaspoon
White peppercorns

1
Cup
Chardonnay




Method:

8.      Mis-en-place: have everything ready with which to work! Sauté the shellfish shells in the butter in a large sautoir over a medium flame.  As the shells cook, add the paprika, blending well, and continue cooking. 

9.      Add the remaining ingredients and raise the temperature to a high simmer; then, keep there and simmer for an hour or so until the stock has reduced to two-quarts.  Pour the stock through a double chinois lined with a clean towel into a sanitized container; then, return to the stove and clarify via a Floating Island, made from egg whites. If a great deal of liquid is lost to evaporation, replace it so that it never goes below TWO quarts.

10. Remove the Floating Island using a skimmer and strain the stock one more time via the double chinois.  Then, remove the towel and replace with cheesecloth and strain one more time into a sanitized baking dish or hotel pan.  Reduce to below 45°F as quickly as possible and then divide between sanitized containers for storage.  Label as to contents and date so that you know when to toss it out should you fail to use it (two weeks in your freezer, 2-3 days in your refrigerator). 

This is the best shellfish stock recipe that I have ever seen and one that every foodservice professional who works in the back of the house MUST know.

11. Now, to prepare the rice, first, combine the ingredients listed under the “Liquid Component” in a large pot and place over low flame.  Keep there until directed.  Preheat standard oven to 375°F and note, standard ovens are BEST for rice preparations. 

12. In a small rondeau (1-gallon) equipped with a tight-fitting lid, heat the chopped sausage over medium flame.  Stir it as it cooks as the goal is for it to render a great deal of grease as well as to prevent too many brown patches gathering on the bottom of the pan. 

13. As the fat accumulates in the pan, add the crumbled coil fideo and quickly brown it in the fat, then add the yellow onions and the spices and continue sautéing the mixture until the onions are tender, pasta brown, and the air aromatic with the essence of the onions and spices. 

14. Raise the temperature under the liquid pot to a boil.  Add the rice to the sausage mixture and stirring constantly, quickly turn it WHITE from the opacity of its original form.  This is called “browning the rice,” so keep stirring it with a kitchen spoon until it is solid white. 

15. Raise the heat under the sausage-rice mixture when the liquid in the first pot comes to a boil.  Now, with the aid of heavy gloves or kitchen mittens, pour the liquid into the rice taking care to STAND BACK TO AVOID THE UPWARD BLAST OF RISING STEAM AS THE TWO MIXTURES COME INTO CONTACT WITH ONE ANOTHER!  This is extremely important as this is a “violent” reaction as the liquid comes in contact with the hot metal so always be aware of this situation to protect both your face and hands.

16. Allow the rice mixture to boil for one minute; then, lower the flame to low and permit the liquid to reduce to the level of the rice.  Clamp on the lid, place on the middle oven rack, and bake the rice for 20-25 minutes or until the rice has absorbed the liquid.  Check around the 20-minute mark.

17. When the rice is ready, remove it from the oven and set it atop a cooling rack so air can circulate freely around it.  Fluff it with a fork and allow it to steam out.  As you do this, have the first segment of vegetables ready at hand but note—they do not have to be hot.  Meanwhile, have a large skillet heating up over medium flame and add the butter to it.

18. When the butter is hot, quickly sauté the bell peppers and olives; then, add the first measure of blanched vegetables and stir to blend.  Hit the pan with the wine, add the garlic, and allow it shortly to reduce.  Then, with a large kitchen fork, fluff this mixture into the cooked rice, mixing well.  Your rice is now ready to serve.

19. Keep rice warm on one’s steam table double-panned.  You can make rice the night before, keep in the walk-in refrigerator, and then reheat to order or the entire batch heated if one knows they will use it.  Rice keeps in the refrigerator for 2-3 days but be sure to use it by Day 3 or throw it out.  One can also prepare the different parts the night before then do the preparation the next day.  To cool hot rice, spread it out on a sheet pan and place an oscillating fan over it to quickly cool it; then, cover in hotel pans with plastic wrap and lids to protect it from contaminants.  Rice can be a source of foodborne illness so always take care to protect it.

20. Serving suggestion: using a soup cup sprayed with PAM or some such other food release spray, press rice into it and then slap it down on a serving plate if keeping it on the steam table.  If kept in a refrigerated drawer, do the same thing but heat it in the microwave oven for approximately 1.5 minutes.  Rice must always be 165°F to prevent foodborne illness occurrences and you should never keep it on the steam table for longer than 2 hours at a time.  Rice that has been on the steam table for that length of time, you must throw it out.

NOTE: the reason for blanching the vegetables in salt water is for color retention.  Always cook them al dente-tender, then drain and plunge into ice water to retard further cooking.

This is a great Portuguese rice dish.

--------------------------------------------

As always, we have a great time around here and that is why we want all of you to become a part of the organization by submitting articles to us for inspection and full-credit.  It is a great thing if you would do this, as it is a symbiotic relationship: we give you the space to share your recipes and in return, you send us more and more people who will become dedicated followers of the END.  Currently of multi-diversity across the Internet, it is important that we hear the voices of more and more people from all walks of the foodservice profession —join us. We urge our readership to write to us, leave comments, and if there are any of you, who would care to write an article for us, please get in touch via Magnolia Hilltop Brewers, P.O. Box 20669, Bakersfield, CA 93390-0669.  We obviously do not pay anything but give YOU full byline and that, my friends, is worth its weight in gold.  We want as many people who want to write to be able to do so and we believe that by presenting a forum for our fellow chefs, we are doing something for our beloved industry.  We love diversity and hope to add new and different authors to our pantheon of chefs, food and beverage directors, and culinary professionals.  Come on and join us, it will be fun! Expect that when all of us have run through our cycle, we will be introducing some brand-new talent or so Stinky says.

Please remember to avoid doing business with AARC Technology in Bakersfield, CA.  These people do not care about the small customer anymore but instead put all of their attentions onto their corporate customers. It is sad to not remember why one has the success they do or from where it came. Nowadays, we promote the Nerds on Call computer service, these people are phenomenal and we want you to seek service from them!

            Okay, that means with today’s conclusion, we move into the final two days of the week and I want all of you to bring your friends, family, coworkers, neighbors, and everyone else you know to come visit us!  I want to see our numbers spike due to increased readership and want it to happen this weekend.  Maybe I will say some political things that will light the world on fire thereby condemning me to do a second week.  I mean, if I can dish it out then so should I be able to do it, too, and in that way, maybe we can get something going about the election, taking place in less than a month: the most important election of our lifetimes!                              

Therefore, let us close with this impassioned plea—please leave some comments and/or become a follower and why not spend some money and purchase an album by SANTANA and/or buy a cookbook from Amazon.com—we want to make some money here so help us out by buying something!  Allied with them, we are pleased to market their merchandise! See you next time around! Bye!  

Thank you!

Stinky

Stinkbug
American Bakers’ Association, ACF, CWC

This is me back in the 1980's when I was the sous chef of a large foodservice operation in Bakersfield, CA. I began my cooking career in the 1960's when I apprenticed underneath a great chef, Master Chef Ulysses S. Paz.  I have lived and worked in Hawaii, Washington State, Arizona, and California.  Even though I am in my late 60’s, I am still actively involved at a hotel here in Bakersfield, CA.

Stinkbug was born on April 01, 1943 in Pumpkin Center, CA to Lucy Mae and Alvin P. Pindeho.

Chef Stinkbug writes from Oildale, CA.

---30---

The END Commentary for Friday, October 12, 2012 by Chef Stinkbug



Please note that everyone who writes for the Elemental News of the Day is their own person entitled to their own opinions, attitudes, and insanity so does not necessarily speak for all of us.  Thanks, Stinkbug.

REFERENCES:

The one-and-only Chef Stinkbug wrote this original essay.



Recipe created by Chef Stinkbug on June 13, 1983 in Oildale, CA.

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BUY SHAMAN” BY SANTANA ATAMAZON.COM NOW!
 
 
 
 
The Chef’s Culinary Nightmare: the end is indeed coming soon so beware of BOTH November 06 AND December 21, 2012!
 
 
 
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