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Tuesday, October 9, 2012

“Side Dish Seminar, Part XXX: Great French Chef Auguste Escoffier is the Basis for Today’s Spectacular Potato Dish in an Institutional Size: Pommes Duchesse” by Chef Stinkbug



Today, we continue offering albums by SANTANA, both as a group bearing his name and as a solo artist.  Santana’s thirty-second group album, “The Essential Santana,” came out on November 21, 2000, and has more explosive Santana songs culled from past through the present.  Please go to Amazon.com right this minute and BUY it by using the convenient link above!





COUNTDOWN TO THE END OF THE MAYAN CALENDAR



Here is the countdown to December 21, 2012: from today, we have 75 days to go until the End of Days, the End of Time, Armageddon, and the End of the Mayan Calendar!  Everybody, beware!



STINKBUG 2012





Chef Stinkbug

END Commentary 10-10-2012

Copyright © 2012 by MHB Productions

Word Count: 1,720.



AMERICAN INSTITUTE OF CULINARY POLITICS



ELEMENTALNEWSOFTHEDAY.BLOGSPOT.COM-STINKBUG—THE HEADLINES

Elemental News of the Day Commentary-Opinion-Sports-Foodservice for Wednesday, October 10, 2012 by Chef Stinkbug



SIDE DISH SEMINAR, PART XXX —INSTITUTIONAL SIZES

Side Dish Seminar, Part XXX: Great French Chef Auguste Escoffier is the Basis for Today’s Spectacular Potato Dish in an Institutional Size: Pommes Duchesse” by Chef Stinkbug



Bakersfield, CA, 10-10-2012 W: We continue with our institutional-sized side dishes, one of the most important things in any professional kitchen.  Normally, restaurants fall into a rut where they have one HOUSE RICE and one HOUSE POTATO and that is the way it is until customers discontinue their dining excursions there and move onto new and better things such as the competition.  People become bored and find alternatives to what you are offering and many times, they become converted and find the newer place better than ever you were because their side dishes taste better and show pizzazz.  I have seen many a place over the course of my lengthy foodservice career fall into decay and then into the dust because their food was “boring,” “tasteless,” and eventually, “disgusting.”  People want something new every time they go out to eat and if they cannot get what they want, they get it somewhere else, many times next door.  It is like the wife wondering why her husband leaves her for a twenty-year old chick, it’s because her lovemaking was boring, predictable, and routine and when confronted with the knowledge that her husband is schlepping other women, wonders where the hell it all went wrong?  BOREDOM!

I am amazed at how many times chef’s jobs have dropped into my lap and it is because the previous chef thought that he or she was untouchable and could get away with whatever they wanted to get away.  Diners are not dumbbells, they are alert, they see everything, taste everything, and with social media and the Internet, it is easy to put the kibosh onto someone without their ever knowing it until it is too late.  Therefore, due to the experience gained by myself over the past forty-plus years, I know that every single night of the week, I better have a NEW rice dish, a NEW potato dish, and a pair or more of NEW vegetable dishes.  If I fail to do any of this, I can bet you that within one year, all of my clientele has moved onto the nearest chain restaurant while I sit at the door wondering where it all went wrong?  Do not make this common mistake: be versatile, innovative, and adept at researching and adopting the past to fit the present. 

Our potato dish for today is an old one from the great French Chef, Auguste Escoffier’s classic books, Pommes de Tierre ala Duchesse, a beautiful egg-fortified mashed potato piped through a pastry bag onto the dinner plate, garnished with melted butter, paprika, and parsley flakes.  It is exceptionally tasteful and easy to make.  I assure that everyone who tries this gourmet extravaganza becomes converted and gives new life to an old treat.  Here we go:

(#0854) POMMES DUCHESS—INSTITUTIONAL SIZE

Auguste Escoffier: Master Chef, 1846-1935, the “King of Chefs and Chef of Kings.”
Back in the day when I first began to work in fine dining, I had wonderful opportunity to learn my craft from a master chef who took me under his wing and taught me over the course of a decade.  It was not an easy apprenticeship to say the least but the things he taught me have remained with me for more than 30 years.  I feel fortunate to have had the opportunity to work with someone of his stature and best of all; he introduced me to French Master Chef, Auguste Escoffier, through his books.

Yield:  60+ servings / Mis-en-place: 1-1.25 hours:


Parsley Knot: “always make sure you press as much excess green color out of fresh parsley as otherwise, it turns white sauces and cream soups “green,” an unprofessional and undesirable attribute.”


Qty.
Measure
Item
Other
40
Medium
Russet potatoes, peeled and steamed

2
Quarts
Hot whole milk

1
Cup
Clarified butter

32
Large
AA eggs

4.5
Teaspoons
Ground nutmeg

4-2/3
Tablespoons
Kosher salt

.125
Cup
White pepper

.5
Cup
Freshly minced parsley flakes
Rinsed
Clarified butter

Spanish paprika

Additional freshly minced parsley flakes
Rinsed

Crisco Pan Release Spray: “the Chef’s Friend.”


Method:
 

1.      Mis-en-place: have everything ready with which to work! Place the potatoes in perforated hotel pans and then into a steamer.  Steam them for approximately 35-45 minutes or until tender.  Have the other ingredients at hand and ready for action as soon as you have cooked the potatoes.

2.      While the potatoes cook, beat the eggs using a WHIP attachment at high speed on your Hobart mixer until light and foamy.  Then, force them through a fine-meshed sieve into a holding bowl.  The purpose of this is to (1) make the eggs a homogenous mixture and (2) remove any hint of eggshell. Refrigerate until required.

3.      Place them into the mixer’s bowl and hook up the PADDLE attachment.  Mash them, rotating the instrument at medium speed, and note that it is advisable to use the splashguard. 

4.      Combine the hot milk with the first measure of clarified butter and then stir in the nutmeg, salt, pepper, and first measure of parsley flakes—have ready.

5.      Begin beating the eggs into the potatoes and when combined, begin adding the hot milk-butter-seasoning mixture along the sides of the bowl while rotating the paddle at medium speed.  Add until the potatoes are light, fluffy, but stop when you have achieved proper mashed potato consistency. Sometimes it requires all of the liquid and sometimes not, it depends upon the moisture content of the spuds, the time of year, and the kitchen’s humidity.  Use common sense.

6.      When the mixture is prepared, scoop it into a sanitized four-inch hotel pan and DOUBLE-PAN it on the steam table.  Keep them warm but not HOT but they should read 165°F—this is important because of the eggs and the possibility of salmonella.

7.      To serve the Pommes de Tierre Duchess, scoop them into a large (sanitized) pastry bag equipped with a LARGE STAR TIP.  Twist the end into a tight twist so nothing can burst out and then on each serving plate, with your holding hand in position, twist your dominant hand holding the TWIST to force the potatoes out while at the same time performing a rippling, up-and-down motion, so you have an attractive rippled mound of hot mashed potatoes.  The eggs keep them standing firm so they look magnificent but before serving them, douse with additional clarified butter, dust with paprika, and sprinkle with more parsley flakes.  Then, they are ready to serve.

8.      Use the batch within 2-3 hours; after that, toss them out and never let them get cool as the possibility of foodborne illness increases as does the difficulty in piping them out. In addition, change the pastry bags several times during the evening using clean ones throughout the course of the dinner. NEVER SAVE LEFTOVERS! 

These potatoes are a product of the master of French Cuisine, Auguste Escoffier, 1846-1935, the so-called “King of Chefs, and Chef of Kings.” They make excellent banquet potatoes with haute cuisine dishes.

--------------------------------------------

As always, we have a great time around here and that is why we want all of you to become a part of the organization by submitting articles to us for inspection and full-credit.  It is a great thing if you would do this, as it is a symbiotic relationship: we give you the space to share your recipes and in return, you send us more and more people who will become dedicated followers of the END.  Currently of multi-diversity across the Internet, it is important that we hear the voices of more and more people from all walks of the foodservice profession —join us. We urge our readership to write to us, leave comments, and if there are any of you, who would care to write an article for us, please get in touch via Magnolia Hilltop Brewers, P.O. Box 20669, Bakersfield, CA 93390-0669.  We obviously do not pay anything but give YOU full byline and that, my friends, is worth its weight in gold.  We want as many people who want to write to be able to do so and we believe that by presenting a forum for our fellow chefs, we are doing something for our beloved industry.  We love diversity and hope to add new and different authors to our pantheon of chefs, food and beverage directors, and culinary professionals.  Come on and join us, it will be fun! Expect that when all of us have run through our cycle, we will be introducing some brand-new talent or so Stinky says.

Please remember to avoid doing business with AARC Technology in Bakersfield, CA.  These people do not care about the small customer anymore but instead put all of their attentions onto their corporate customers. It is sad to not remember why one has the success they do or from where it came. Nowadays, we promote the Nerds on Call computer service, these people are phenomenal and we want you to seek service from them!

            Here it is the night before HUMP DAY and so far, so good. I hope I never have to punish anyone again the way I did poor Chef Gervais, as I believe it is important to espouse all political viewpoints here at the Elemental News of the Day.  Normally, most chefs and cooks are Democrats because let’s face it; most of them are blue-collar workers as well as members of the unions.  I myself was a member of the Local 550 of the Hotel and Restaurant Employees and Bartenders International Union of Bakersfield, California, until it disbanded at some point during the late 1970s or early 1980s.  It was said that the secretary-treasurer Dorothy Abegg and the number two guy, Duke Mosby were both Mob-connected and if memory serves me correctly, both of them went to the Joint over criminal activities.   Never much of a union guy, I still respect the working man’s right to representation but I also favored busting unions whenever I had the opportunity.  Back to my point, the fact that most of us here lean towards the right rather than the left is the reason why I must keep things to a minimum as I do not want the president being offended and shutting us down.  Not when I am trying to get grant money!                             

Therefore, let us close with this impassioned plea—please leave some comments and/or become a follower and why not spend some money and purchase an album by SANTANA and/or buy a cookbook from Amazon.com—we want to make some money here so help us out by buying something!  Allied with them, we are pleased to market their merchandise! See you next time around! Bye!  

Thank you!

Stinky

Stinkbug
American Bakers’ Association, ACF, CWC

This is I back in the 1980's when I was the sous chef of a large foodservice operation in Bakersfield, CA. I began my cooking career in the 1960's when I apprenticed underneath a great chef, Master Chef Ulysses S. Paz.  I have lived and worked in Hawaii, Washington State, Arizona, and California.  Even though I am in my late 60’s, I am still actively involved at a hotel here in Bakersfield, CA.

Stinkbug was born on April 01, 1943 in Pumpkin Center, CA to Lucy Mae and Alvin P. Pindeho.

Chef Stinkbug writes from Oildale, CA.

---30---

The END Commentary for Wednesday, October 10, 2012 by Chef Stinkbug



Please note that everyone who writes for the Elemental News of the Day is their own person entitled to their own opinions, attitudes, and insanity so does not necessarily speak for all of us.  Thanks, Stinkbug.

REFERENCES:

The one-and-only Chef Stinkbug wrote this original essay.



Recipe created by Chef Stinkbug on June 16, 1983 in Oildale, CA.

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This is #1263, an 8” x 10" original oil painting by Beverly Carrick entitled, “Lone Rider." It is among her more beautiful works and is available for sale. You can see much more of her work at her Website, located at http://www.beverlycarrick.com or at Brian Carrick's Facebook page. At her Website, you will see not only more original oil paintings but also lithographs, giclees, prints, miniatures, photographs, and even her award-winning instructional video entitled, "Painting the Southwest with Beverly Carrick." Beverly has been painting for more than 60 years and known around the world for both the beauty and timelessness of her artworks. Hanging in private and public galleries and followed by many fans encircling the globe—her works instill awe because of her artistic brilliance and personal beauty. We urge you to go to her Website NOW and view her work. It is possible that you will find something you like and will want to buy it for yourself, a friend, a loved one, or a neighbor! You will not be disappointed so please: do yourself a favor and go there IMMEDIATELY! Thank you, the Elemental News of the Day!
 
 
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CHEF STINKBUG
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