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Monday, October 22, 2012

“Side Dish Seminar, Part XLIII: after Yesterday’s Whopper of a Potato Dish, Chef Randalini switches Gears to an Old Italian Favorite—Mostaccioli Parmesano!” by Chef Kilgore Randalini



Today, we continue offering albums by SANTANA, both as a group bearing his name and as a solo artist.  Santana’s forty-third and FINAL group album, “Shapeshifter,” came out on May 15, 2012, and is another great album and the final one as of 2012.  We love the album and know that you are going to concur with our suggestion so buy it now by using the convenient link above! Tomorrow, we commence offering albums by Los Angeles psychedelic band, Love featuring guitar genius, Arthur Lee.







COUNTDOWN TO THE END OF THE MAYAN CALENDAR



Here is the countdown to December 21, 2012: from today, we have 62 days to go until the End of Days, the End of Time, Armageddon, and the End of the Mayan Calendar!  Everybody, beware!



STINKBUG 2012





Chef Kilgore Randalini

END Commentary 10-23-2012

Copyright © 2012 by MHB Productions

Word Count: 1,795.



AMERICAN INSTITUTE OF CULINARY POLITICS



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Elemental News of the Day Commentary-Opinion-Sports-Foodservice for Tuesday, October 23, 2012 by Chef Kilgore Randalini



SIDE DISH SEMINAR, PART XLIII—INSTITUTIONAL SIZES

Side Dish Seminar, Part XLIII: after Yesterday’s Whopper of a Potato Dish, Chef Randalini switches Gears to an Old Italian Favorite—Mostaccioli Parmesano!” by Chef Kilgore Randalini

Bakersfield, CA, 10-23-2012 T: Yesterday was obviously a great day because we did a dish no one ever does anymore and to me, it seemed successful as I heard from friends and readers alike complimenting me on its uniqueness.  I love the old classical European cookery that once was the rule of the day whereas now, people shy away from the heavy sauces, the “strange combinations,” and peculiar flavorings.  Yet, these same people are now fervent fans of Indian Cuisine, Thai Cuisine, Vietnamese Cuisine, and other, exotic and new cuisines.  The aforementioned cuisines have obviously been around for far longer than the modern-day chefs promoting them and it never ceases to amaze me how many nouvelle chefs grab bits of this one and parts of that one and create what I call, “Dr. Frankenstein Dishes.” They create a cuisine of tidbits of this and pieces of that and say, “Look at me, look at what I have created, and I am now capable of writing for Food and Wine magazine or Cook’s Magazine, two of the biggest pieces of pig offal I have ever seen! To me, food is an art and it needs to be treated as such, not thrown together after a trip to the Oriental Grocer, the Turkish Grocer, or the Romanian Grocer.  One needs to try things before slapping them onto a plate in skyscraper fashion, it simply is not appetizing nor is it nothing to write home about and tell Mama what you’ve done.  People need to be students first of what has come before and then students of what has worked in the past before creating crap and calling it HIGH CUISINE.  I have seen far too much fakery, idiocy, and imbecility over the course of my lengthy career that if I never see any of it again as long as I live, I can consider myself a happy man. 

Now that all of this has escaped my lips, let me tell you what we are making today: Mostaccioli Parmesano, a classic au gratin pasta dish, something that maybe the smucks at Romano’s Macaroni Grill have co-opted and transformed into something they slap a $15 price tag on and serve it by the score.  Somewhere, someplace, someone has to speak up and declare crappy places like the aforementioned Romano’s and the even worse Olive Garden (“when you’re here, you’re family” crap) to be the worthless chain restaurant nightmares they are.  How come asshole chef Gordon Ramsay never goes to an Olive Garden and tears the place apart?  I would love to see a reality TV show featuring that, it would be good to see the grizzled chef go apoplectic and drop dead on television in front of millions of screaming imbecilic fans!

This is one of the classic side dishes of yore that people still enjoy because it is a comfort food, beloved by many and known to all.  Once you have had a bite of it, you will see through the myriad pretenders lining the streets and boulevards of your town or city.  Here we go:

(#0950) MOSTACCIOLI PARMESANO—INSTITUTIONAL SIZE



In fine-dining circumstances, we tend to offer a wide variety of side dishes and accompaniments to keep things new and excitingly different.  Sometimes old-fashioned favorites such as pasta and cheese are wildly popular and a hit with members of all ages.  This is one of the greatest comfort foods but made with Mostaccioli rather than macaroni.  Still, it is an ageless classic and a good change of pace from potatoes and rice dishes.

Yield:  30-40 servings / Mis-en-place: 45-60 minutes:



Qty.
Measure
Item
Other
1.5
Gallons
Boiling water

.125
Cup
Olive oil

.125
Cup
Kosher salt

1
Quart
Barilla-brand Mostaccioli

2
Quarts
Whole milk
Hot
1
Quart
Chicken stock
Hot
2.5
Teaspoons
Kosher salt

1
Teaspoon
White pepper

.75
Cup
Clarified butter

1
Cup
All-purpose flour

2
Cups
Sliced button mushrooms
Blanched
3
Cups
Finely-shredded parmesan cheese

.25
Cup
Clarified butter

.125
Cup
Freshly minced parsley flakes
Rinsed
Hungarian paprika


The Chef's Friend...

Method:

1.      Mis-en-place: have everything ready with which to work! Bring water, salt, and oil to a boil and then add the dry pasta to it, stirring almost constantly, with a wooden spatula.  Cook 6-8 minutes or until it’s JUST past the “crisp” stage but DON’T overcook!

2.      Immediately drain well and place on a sheet tray in one layer to cool.  Don’t rinse it as the residual starch keeps the sauce from breaking down.  Spray a two-inch whole hotel pan with PAM, Crisco Pan Release Spray, or some such other food release spray.  Pour the pasta into it.  Heat standard oven to 400°F or a convection oven to 350°.

3.      Now, combine the milk and stock together in a large saucepot and place over medium flame.  In a second, one-gallon-sized saucepot or a rondeau, add the butter, seasonings, and flour and place over a medium flame.  Stir constantly to form a roux and when it is blonde, fluffy, and combined, raise the temperature under the liquid to bring it to a boil.

4.      Combine the liquid with the roux by pouring the former into the latter.  Take care to protect your hands, arms, and face from spatter as many times when liquid and roux come into contact—the results can be explosive!

5.      Whisk constantly as the sauce forms and continue whisking it until it is thickened, free from lumps, and smooth.  If need be, pour it through a fine-meshed sieve into the pasta in the hotel pan.  When all of it is through the mesh, stir it well to combine it with the pasta.  Shake the pan to settle it and then pour the second measure of butter across the top followed by the shredded cheese and the parsley flakes. 

6.      Now, using the paprika container, do your best to sprinkle crisscross lines across the top in a DIAMOND pattern.  First shake diagonal lines in one direction then come back and shake them in the opposite to form a diamond pattern.  Place it onto the middle rack of the preheated oven and bake it 30-40 minutes or until it reads 165°F.  Then it is ready to serve.
Always squeeze as much excess green color out of freshly-minced parsley as possible...
 
7.      Place the two-inch hotel pan into another similar pan and then place into a well upon your steam table.  Keep the heat at 135°F-to-140°F and keep it partially covered.  Never cover totally as this will cause it to steam thereby moistening the top and breaking down the dish.  Serve with a kitchen spoon, order-by-order.

8.      Cool leftovers to below 45°F as quickly as possible.  Place the leftovers atop a cooling rack and if need be, have an oscillating fan blowing across the surface.  Always take care to keep the blades of any foodservice fan washed and sanitized and never use one intended for use with food for anything else.  When totally cool, transfer the leftover pasta into a sanitized pan, cover with plastic wrap, label, date, and refrigerate.  Use within 1-2 days and note, it can be reheated order-by-order in the microwave or in the oven in a water bath to prevent it from scorching.  You can also add chopped cooked ham for ham and macaroni and serve it as a luncheon special.

This is a great way to use pasta by serving it in a scalloped dish.

--------------------------------------------

As always, we have a great time around here and that is why we want all of you to become a part of the organization by submitting articles to us for inspection and full-credit.  It is a great thing if you would do this, as it is a symbiotic relationship: we give you the space to share your recipes and in return, you send us more and more people who will become dedicated followers of the END.  Currently of multi-diversity across the Internet, it is important that we hear the voices of more and more people from all walks of the foodservice profession —join us. We urge our readership to write to us, leave comments, and if there are any of you, who would care to write an article for us, please get in touch via Magnolia Hilltop Brewers, P.O. Box 20669, Bakersfield, CA 93390-0669.  We obviously do not pay anything but give YOU full byline and that, my friends, is worth its weight in gold.  We want as many people who want to write to be able to do so and we believe that by presenting a forum for our fellow chefs, we are doing something for our beloved industry.  We love diversity and hope to add new and different authors to our pantheon of chefs, food and beverage directors, and culinary professionals.  Come on and join us, it will be fun! Expect that when all of us have run through our cycle, we will be introducing some brand-new talent or so Stinky says.

Please remember to avoid doing business with AARC Technology in Bakersfield, CA.  These people do not care about the small customer anymore but instead put all of their attentions onto their corporate customers. It is sad to not remember why one has the success they do or from where it came. Nowadays, we promote the Nerds on Call computer service, these people are phenomenal and we want you to seek service from them!

            I imagine that a lot of fans of the smucks I mentioned earlier in today’s post are going to write in, criticizing me for speaking so poorly of their heroes.  I figure once a chef goes onto the television, he or she basically has sold his or her soul to the culinary devil, the greedy god of money, fame, fortune, sex, drugs, and rock-and-roll and therefore is no longer worthy of notice or mention.  People need to remain true to their calling and work in dives on the back alleyways of America that serve the BEST food ever seen.  Stay out of the chains that dot every single corner of every major city, take a drive out to Shafter, Delano, McFarland, Taft, or Arvin, California and dine where the real chefs go to eat on their days off! In other words, grow a pair, people, wake up and smell the grand old cuisine of our ancestors, our grandparents, and everyone else who has gone ahead of us down the historical trail.  Eat REAL food!                                      

Therefore, let us close with this impassioned plea—please leave some comments and/or become a follower and why not spend some money and purchase an album by SANTANA and/or buy a cookbook from Amazon.com—we want to make some money here so help us out by buying something!  Allied with them, we are pleased to market their merchandise! See you next time around! TOMORROW: WE BEGIN OFFERING ALBUMS BY ARTHUR LEE AND Love! Bye!  

Thank you!

Kilgore Randalini

Kilgore Randalini
Working Chef, ACF

This is me back in the 1980's when I was a middle-aged chef working at a Grand Hotel in Southern California. I began my culinary career in the early 1960's after having spent some time in the United States Army. Presently, I am still working at a local country club somewhere in Kern County.

Chef Kilgore Randalini writes from Oildale, CA.

---30---

The END Commentary for Tuesday, October 23, 2012 by Chef Kilgore Randalini



Please note that everyone who writes for the Elemental News of the Day is their own person entitled to their own opinions, attitudes, and insanity so does not necessarily speak for all of us.  Thanks, Stinkbug.

REFERENCES:

The one-and-only Chef Kilgore Randalini wrote this original essay.



Recipe created by Chef Kilgore Randalini on April 18, 1981 in Bakersfield, CA, created the original recipe whereas I adopted his and increased the quantity)

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The Chef’s Culinary Nightmare: the end is indeed coming soon so beware of BOTH November 06 AND December 21, 2012!
 
 
 
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