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Saturday, September 1, 2012

“Yeast Bread Seminar, Part XXXVIII: Like every other Elemental News of the Day Chef, Chef Pedro saved the Best for Last: Powerful Red Chili Buns!” by Chef Pedro R. Munoz



We continue offering albums today by SANTANA, both as a group bearing his name and as a solo artist.  Santana’s second solo album, “Love, Devotion, and Surrender,” came out on July 20, 1973 and featured Carlos Santana in conjunction with Mahavishnu John McLaughlin. This is a “different” album, and features not one but two great guitarists!  Please go to Amazon.com right now and BUY this stellar album by using the convenient link above!



COUNTDOWN TO THE END OF THE MAYAN CALENDAR


Here is the countdown to December 21, 2012: from today, we have 113 days to go until the End of Days, the End of Time, Armageddon, and the End of the Mayan Calendar!  Everybody, beware!



STINKBUG 2012





Chef Pedro R. Munoz

END Commentary 09-02-2012

Copyright © 2012 by MHB Productions

Word Count: 2,796.



AMERICAN INSTITUTE OF CULINARY POLITICS



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Elemental News of the Day Commentary-Opinion-Sports-Foodservice for Sunday, September 02, 2012 by Chef Pedro R. Munoz



YEAST BREAD SEMINAR, PT. XXXVIII

Yeast Bread Seminar, Part XXXVIII: Like every other Elemental News of the Day Chef, Chef Pedro saved the Best for Last: Powerful Red Chili Buns!” by Chef Pedro R. Munoz

Bakersfield, CA, 09-02-2012 Su: At last, Domingo (Sunday to you) has arrived and that means that today is it, tomorrow I grab my family and head to Los Angeles where we take an airline flight to Tijuana, Mexico.  There, we head south along the coast of western Mexico to beautiful Baja California, home of some superb deep-sea fishing.  My family resides in a beautiful home along the coast in a hidden cove and there, the family fishes the crystal blue waters that have resided there since the creation of the world by El Dio, aka God to you.  Everyone in my family is Catholic, to us; it is the one and only religion and even though most of us vote Democratically, our beliefs in God remain strong.  The war conducted on the church over the past 8-12 months is thoroughly disturbing, there is no need for it yet the government feels that if they can beat the church down, it will make the people more docile and make the far leftists happy with joy.  Unfortunately for them, they have a major surprise coming in a couple of months and I am afraid to say that I possibly might cross to the other side and vote Republican for the first time in my life but enough is enough, amigos!  Faith is one of those things to which, every man, woman, and child is entitled to either have or not have, that is their business.  What is not correct, however, is for the government to tell the people what they can believe or not believe.  I realize there are many haters of religion out there in the world today but the power of God always wins whereas the power of the other guy, El Diablo, does not.  I say people of faith, stand firm and remain faithful, steadfast, and strong—we will win!

            Today as Moses Scharbug’s title suggests, I have indeed saved the best for last in this weeklong chingaso of yeast bread baking my friends.  Once I found myself overloaded with lots of chili sauce, roasted red potatoes, chilis, and other items and had to use or lose them so I saw my potato roll recipe lying there on tabletop and said, “that’s it! Red hot chili buns!” They are not only tasty, they are exciting and everyone loves them, well, except for those with stomach issues but everyone else sure does as will you:  Let’s do it and get the heck out of here!

(#159) POWERFUL CHILI BUNS


Foodservice professionals are forever in search of new and exciting things or ways in which to present OLD things in new and exciting ways.  These fantastic buns resulted from leftover roasted red potatoes, Las Palmas red chili sauce, and other ingredients when suddenly, I visualized a way to make stunning, “drop-dead” potato rolls that would drive my customers nuts and believe me, this recipe did just that!

Yield:  30-35 rolls / Mis-en-place: 1.25-1.75 hours:




Qty.
Measure
Item
Other
1
Cup
Grated roasted red potatoes (warm)

5/8
Cup
Vegetable oil

.75
Cup
Tepid buttermilk (105°-115°F)

.75
Ounces
Fleischman’s fresh cake yeast

3/8
Cup
Granulated sugar

1.75
Cups
Las Palmas red chili sauce (105°F-115°F)

2.25
Teaspoons
Kosher salt

.25
Teaspoon
Ground cloves

.5
Cup
Chopped Ortega-brand green chilis

3
Large
AA eggs

2-3
Quarts +
Bread flour

Yellow cornmeal

1
Large
AA egg, beaten

.125
Cup
Cold water

Whole cumin seeds

Drawn butter




Method:

1.      Mis-en-place: have everything ready with which to work! This recipe uses the BRICK METHOD, which appears below in the recipe.  Prepare 2-3 sheet pans by spraying them with PAM, lining them with wax or parchment paper, spraying the paper, too, with food release spray, and finally by dusting them with yellow cornmeal, something that mimics old-fashioned oven baking on the oven’s floor; set aside. 

2.      This roll is a POTATO ROLL of sorts, so it is similar in preparation:  place the warm grated roasted red potatoes in the bowl of your mixer and hook up the dough hook.  With it rotating slowly around the interior of the bowl, add the vegetable oil, buttermilk, and yeast.  Mix until combined and yeast is dissolved, then cover it with a dry cloth, set somewhere warm (NOT hot!), and activate the yeast.  Usually, we set the mixing bowl on a high kitchen shelf (warm air rises) free from drafts or in an unused oven, something insulated from the surrounding air. 

3.      Allow the yeast between 5-10 and 20-30 minutes to activate when it is, bubbles appear on the surface of the pot, too numerous to count.  This is one of the most important steps in making yeast breads with fresh cake yeast as if the yeast is old, dead, or just plain unusable, it will not activate and no amount of it causes a bread to rise.  The reason for its use is its flavor; it tastes real and not manmade.  Sure, one can use active dry yeast or SAF yeast but neither is comparable to fresh cake.  Ask your local grocer or buy some from your local bakery.  Always keep it refrigerated and well wrapped with plastic wrap and sealed in a plastic bag.  You can freeze it, too, just be sure to label and date it so it does not sit there for longer than 1-2 weeks.

a.      The reason why one must activate fresh cake yeast is if something is wrong with the yeast and it does not activate, everything else is for naught.  Therefore, never overlook or skip this very important step.

4.      When bubbles appear at the top of the mixing bowl, bring it down, hook it up, and add the sugar, red chili sauce, salt, ground cloves, chopped green chilis, and eggs while mixing on low speed.  Then, begin scaling in the bread flour along the sides of the bowl, slowly, as this is a slow process.  What we ultimately seek is for the dough to tell us when it is ready: it does this by climbing onto the dough hook and remaining there for at least 1.5-2 minutes.  During the course of adding the bread flour—a variable due to weather, season, humidity, flour quality, and time of day—it may or may not require more or less flour.  Generally, it requires the first amount specified plus some so take your time:

a.      Add flour slowly down the sides of the bowl as the mixer rotates on low speed.  During this time, the dough climbs aboard the dough hook and back onto the sides of the bowl—numerous times—all the while adding it.  When you approach the end amount—two quarts—watch it closely:  it should pull onto the hook and remain there more often than not and finally, as you continue adding flour, it remains there.  Allow the mixer to rotate slowly for 1.5-2 minutes and if it remains there, stop the mixer and check it by poking it with your fingers.  If it is firm yet springy and feels ‘alive,’ it is ready for work.

5.      Scoop the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface and roll it out with the aid of a rolling pin until it is half-an-inch thick.  Fold the far end back towards YOU until it reaches the middle then roll it out again.  Pull the sides over until they overlap in the center, and then roll it out again.  Finally, form it into a ball, smack it down, and repeat the process at least 1-2 more times as this recipe is for ROLLS and NOT loaves. 

6.      When you finish kneading the dough, roll it into a final ball and transfer it to a lightly floured bowl double its size, cover with a dry cloth, set somewhere relatively warm to proof, and leave it there for 5-25 minutes.  When you see the dough raised above the height of the bowl, straining beneath the towel to escape, pull it down, insert a slightly moistened index finger up to the third knuckle in its center, and if the depression remains without being filled—it is done. 

7.      Scoop it out of the bowl; roll it out until an inch thick.  Cut it into long strips approximately 1.5-2-inches thick, and roll each one into a ball.  Place them onto the prepared pans spacing two inches apart from one another.  Cover with a dry towel and return to your warm but not hot area to proof.  Meanwhile, combine the beaten eggs with the cold water to form your eggwash, and then force it through a fine-meshed sieve to remove all egg white lumps, otherwise known as albumin.  This homogenizes the mixture allowing the baker to brush it easily over the buns; set it aside.

8.      Preheat your standard oven to 400°F or your convection oven—fan “off”—to 350°F.  Here is the BRICK METHOD, the way home and restaurant bakers mimic steam-injected ovens used by professional bakeries, not a standard piece of equipment in most restaurants or any home of which, I know:

THE BRICK METHOD

Professional bakeries use steam-injected ovens, which increase the “spring” of their yeast breads.  Never use this technique for quickbreads or muffins—ONLY for yeast breads. 

The term, “oven spring” is one used by bakers around the world and it means that when the risen raw dough—either loaves or rolls—is placed inside one’s preheated convection oven, it jumps the moment the fan is switched “on.” Bakeries use steam-injected convection ovens, which allow them to (1) increase the size of their yeast breads through the phenomenon of “oven spring” as well as (2) hardening the outer crusts through the injection of steam at a crucial moment at the start of the baking process. 

Normally, loaves traditionally bake in standard ovens but bakeries tend to bake both loaves and rolls in convection ovens because it increases their size once you turn the fan "on."   Bakers at home generally do not have convection ovens unless they have either a Jenn-Aire Range or restaurant equipment. However, most restaurant bakers have convection ovens but do NOT have steam-injection capacity so it is convenient for them to use the Brick Method, too, as I have done over the course of my entire career.  Therefore, if one wants to bake like a professional bakery in a bakery, they must use this method:

This is how it works: first, buy 3-4 firebricks at your local hardware store and if at home, buy a metal half hotel pan from the local restaurant supply store.  While making your bread dough, heat the bricks on the stovetop (gas is best) as well as a pot of hot water.  Then, when your yeast loaves are proofing and ALMOST ready to hit the preheated oven, approximately 5 minutes before they are due to enter it place the metal pan on the oven floor. Then, place 1-2 HOT bricks within it using heavy gloves, and then standing back so as to avoid the sudden upward-rising blast of hot steam, pour the water over the bricks. Then, slam the door shut and allow the oven to steam for at least 5 minutes.

When the proofed bread is ready to go in, place it atop the middle oven rack of the steam-injected oven and shut the door immediately.  Allow them to bathe within the steam for at least 5 minutes and if using a convection oven, throw the switch “on” after 1-2 minutes and watch the loaves or rolls JUMP UP.  After a total of five minutes, remove the pan, the bricks, and whatever—if any—water remains and continue baking until baked.

I discovered this method years ago when I first read about “oven spring” in a baker’s book from the 1950’s.  I talked to professional bread bakers outside of restaurants and they explained the process to me.  I began employing it, discovered fantastic test results, and have used it both on the job and at home for at least 25 years.  You can obtain similar results and have success with your baking by employing it, just remember to be extremely careful!

9.      When the rolls double in size, bring them to the table, remove the cloth, brush lightly with the eggwash, and sprinkle with the cumin seeds.  Humidify the oven and after 3-4 minutes, insert the rolls onto the middle oven racks and bake for 15 minutes; then reduce heat by 25°F and bake another 15-20 minutes or until the rolls prove themselves “done.” They are firm yet tender and their bottoms browned.  NOTE: after the first TEN minutes of baking at the original temperature, pull the bricks and pan out.  If using a convection oven—flip the fan “on” after the first 3-4 minutes.

10. As soon as the rolls exit the oven, set atop a cooling rack, and brush heavily with drawn butter.  The drawn butter removes the unsightly and tasteless whey and milk solids leaving only the oil.  You do this by heating it over low heat, removing surface scum and then removing the clear liquid with a ladle and discarding the remnants at the bottom.  Brush the rolls until the butter runs out and they are tender as pillows.  Now, serve them, as they are ready!

11. When very cool, individually wrap leftovers in plastic wrap, and then zip up tight in Freezer Zip-Loc bags.  It is fine to keep them out at room temperature for ONE day—covered with a cloth—but after that, it is into the freezer and NEVER the refrigerator! The refrigerator dries breads out so it is never a good idea to store any bread product there. Be sure to use within 3-7 days as after that, they diminish in quality.  

These are excellent and spicy rolls, a great way to prepare potato rolls in new and exciting ways!

--------------------------------------------

As always, we have a great time around here and that is why we want all of you to become a part of the organization by submitting articles to us for inspection and full-credit.  It is a great thing if you would do this, as it is a symbiotic relationship: we give you the space to share your recipes and in return, you send us more and more people who will become dedicated followers of the END.  Currently of multi-diversity across the Internet, it is important that we hear the voices of more and more people from all walks of the foodservice profession —join us. We urge our readership to write to us, leave comments, and if there are any of you, who would care to write an article for us, please get in touch via Magnolia Hilltop Brewers, P.O. Box 20669, Bakersfield, CA 93390-0669.  We obviously do not pay anything but give YOU full byline and that, my friends, is worth its weight in gold.  We want as many people who want to write to be able to do so and we believe that by presenting a forum for our fellow chefs, we are doing something for our beloved industry.  We love diversity and hope to add new and different authors to our pantheon of chefs, food and beverage directors, and culinary professionals.  Come on and join us, it will be fun! Expect that when all of us have run through our cycle, we will be introducing some brand-new talent or so Stinky says.

Please remember to avoid doing business with AARC Technology in Bakersfield, CA.  These people do not care about the small customer anymore but instead put all of their attentions onto their corporate customers. It is sad to not remember why one has the success they do or from where it came.

            September is a great time to head south below the border as Mexico is lovely in late summer and early fall.  Baja California is always a beautiful place, it is also home and that, mis amigos, is what life is all about: seeing friends and family (and avoiding the narcoterrorists while doing so!).  The fish there are excellent, marlin, sailfish, bonito, barracuda, all sorts of amazing fish that one sees in Mexican Seafood Restaurants throughout the western states, excellent fish as only my people make.   One day, if you never been to Ensenada, you must journey there with friends and family, stay with us, and enjoy life as only we know it, it is the most wonderful thing in all the world!               

Anyhow, let us close with this impassioned plea—please leave some comments and/or become a follower and why not spend some money and purchase an album by SANTANA and/or buy a cookbook from Amazon.com—we want to make some money here so help us out by buying something!  Allied with them, we are pleased to market their merchandise! See you next time around! Bye!  

Thank you!

Pedro Munoz

Executive Chef Pedro Munoz
CEC, American Culinary Federation, Inc.
This is a photo of me at an awards dinner in San Diego for the Chefs de Cuisine in 1978. I began my culinary career in the 1950's and had the good fortune of working with many different chefs before meeting my good friend, Stinkbug, in the mid 1980's in Bakersfield. I am still working part-time in my semi-retired years in my hometown in San Diego, CA.

Member of the CA063 San Diego Chefs de Cuisine Chapter

Chef Pedro writes from San Diego, CA.

---30---

The END Commentary for Sunday, September 02, 2012 by Chef Pedro R. Munoz



Please note that everyone who writes for the Elemental News of the Day is their own person entitled to their own opinions, attitudes, and insanity so does not necessarily speak for all of us.  Thanks, Stinkbug.

REFERENCES:

The one-and-only Chef Pedro R. Munoz wrote this original essay.



Recipe created by Chef Pedro R. Munoz on May 28, 1995 in Bakersfield, CA.

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