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Tuesday, September 18, 2012

“Mis-en-Place Index, Part XXXI: The Second Week of Chef Gervais’ Punishment sees an Interesting and New Deviation in Institutional Sizes—Citrus Buerre Blanc, enough to serve a Busy Dinner Night!” by Chef Gervais Krinkelmeier



Today, we continue offering albums by SANTANA, both as a group bearing his name and as a solo artist.  Santana’s seventeenth group album, “The Very Best of Santana,” came out in January 1986 and was the second best of package released by the band since its inception.  This album contains all of the hits up-to-date, which means, this album is definitely one you will want to buy, so we urge you to go to Amazon.com immediately and BUY it by using the convenient link above!





COUNTDOWN TO THE END OF THE MAYAN CALENDAR


Here is the countdown to December 21, 2012: from today, we have 96 days to go until the End of Days, the End of Time, Armageddon, and the End of the Mayan Calendar!  Everybody, beware!



STINKBUG 2012





Chef Gervais Krinkelmeier

END Commentary 09-19-2012

Copyright © 2012 by MHB Productions

Word Count: 1,655.



AMERICAN INSTITUTE OF CULINARY POLITICS



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Elemental News of the Day Commentary-Opinion-Sports-Foodservice for Wednesday, September 19, 2012 by Chef Gervais Krinkelmeier



MIS-EN-PLACE INDEX—INSTITUTIONAL SIZES

Mis-en-Place Index, Part XXXI: The Second Week of Chef Gervais’ Punishment sees an Interesting and New Deviation in Institutional Sizes—Citrus Buerre Blanc, enough to serve a Busy Dinner Night!” by Chef Gervais Krinkelmeier

PUNISHMENT WEEK NUMBER TWO FOR CHEF GERVAIS

Bakersfield, CA, 09-19-2012 W: Today, we switch over to the realm of sauces—institutional sized—because the quantities used on the job many times dwarf those used at home.  One of the most difficult sauces of all to keep warm on a hot cooks’ line is hollandaise while the other is buerre blanc, a sauce made with whipped butter, kept warm, and hopefully will not break—which is a genuine threat.  Making either of these sauces is a tricky proposition at any level but when one needs institutional-sized quantities, it gets even more difficult because they are FRAGILE.  Keeping them warm is one of the most difficult jobs in any professional kitchen so many times; we must resort to using “tricks” to accomplish our needs.  Sure, in classy kitchens, the ones with sauciers, they sneer at any attempt to alter the traditional means of making them but I must say, my friends, that after laboring in multitudes of flamethrower-hot kitchens over the course of a lengthy lifetime, one MUST do things differently as otherwise, they experience needless grief.  We make today's Citrus Buerre Blanc with a roux, which I know would elicit howls out of the older chefs out there but it is what it is, friends, and that means we do what we gotta do! So, what I am doing here first is to give you the “true” way of making buerre blanc and then follow it with the upgraded Citrus Buerre Blanc in an institutional size:

(#311) BUERRE BLANC SAUCE


This is the classic way of preparing the French butter sauce, buerre blanc, a must-have accompaniment in most fine-dining kitchens across the civilized world.  This is one that every chef and line cook must be able to produce and do so relatively quickly without mistakes.  It takes time to manufacture properly but with practice, it becomes easier and easier each time you make it.

1. About 2 cups / Mis-en-place: 15-20 minutes. 



Qty.
Measure
Item
Other
4
Ounces
Minced shallots

8
Ounces
White wine

3
Ounces
Lemon juice

3
Ounces
Apple cider vinegar

2
Cups
Reduced heavy cream (to 1-cup)

1.5
#
Unsalted butter

1
Teaspoon
Kosher salt

2
Teaspoons
Lemon zest

1
Pinch
White pepper



Method:

1.      Reduce the shallots in a skillet with the wine until almost evaporated, then add the lemon juice and vinegar, and again reduce to almost nothing.

2.      Add the reduced cream and unsalted butter and douse the flame.  Whisk in the salt, lemon zest, and pepper and set aside.  Don’t keep by the heat but keep at room temperature. 

This is the classic white butter sauce for use in whatever recipe you’re making that it’s called for.  Treat it gently as it’s very fragile and too much heat will cause it to separate, which is unattractive.

            Here is the MAIN SAUCE for today:

(#1685) CITRUS BUERRE BLANC—INSTITUTIONAL SIZE



Buerre blanc sauce is one of the most difficult sauces to make, as is any from the hollandaise family of sauces.  It takes time, patience, and a bit of skill if one is to make it exceptionally well; otherwise, what is the point in making it?  Making sauces such is this one is sort of a “rite of passage” for most junior cooks and we expect it of them if they are to move to a higher level such as sous chef.  Take time making it so that you perfect your skills.

Yield:  1.25 quarts / Mis-en-place: 20 minutes:




Qty.
Measure
Item
Other
1
Quart
Gallo Chablis

.25
Cup
Freshly squeezed lemon juice, seeds removed

.25
Cup
Freshly squeezed orange juice, seeded

.125
Cup
Heinz white vinegar

1
Tablespoon
Granulated sugar

1
Teaspoon
Stinkbug Seasoning (Recipe #)
See below
.125
cup
Orange zest

.25
#
Unsalted butter

3/16
Cup
All-purpose flour

3/8
Cup
Heavy cream

.75
#
Unsalted butter, cut into cubes 




Method:

1.      Mis-en-place: have everything ready with which to work! First, we make the Stinkbug Seasoning, an important seasoning agent needed in every kitchen, whether they be home or professional:

(#226) STINKBUG’S SEASONING


Every chef worth his or her “salt” (to borrow an age-old expression!) should have his or her own, personal, seasoning blends and this one, friends, is the best there is.  Keep it on hand and use it for all of your culinary needs as it adds the right amount of flavor and increases the ultimate tang of your finished foods.

Yield: One cup of seasoning:



Qty.
Measure
Item
Other
1
Cup
Kosher salt

1
Tablespoon
Black pepper

1
Tablespoon
Granulated garlic

1.5
Teaspoon
Granulated onion

.5
Teaspoon
Hungarian paprika

1
Teaspoon
Summer savory

1
Teaspoon
Dry parsley flakes



Method:

2.      Combine all ingredients together in the bowl of an electric mixer and mix well. Store the finished seasoning in an airtight, DRY container.

Use this wonderful multi-purpose seasoning for all your cooking needs, as it will deliver excellent results.

3.      Now, in a heavy-duty saucepot, combine the Chablis, vinegar, and juices and reduce by half over a lazy flame, medium-low.  When so, add the sugar, Stinkbug Seasoning, and the orange zest.

4.      Meanwhile, combine the first measure of butter (four ounces) with the all-purpose flour to form a white roux. 

5.      Bring the liquid to a boil and then whisk in the roux to form a medium-light thick sauce, not stiff like gravy but more like a liquid tightened by cornstarch or clear gel.  Normally, professionals consider adding roux to buerre blanc to be “cheating” as we prepare such sauces for temporary usage by the cooks on the line.  Since this is a professional amount for use throughout a 3-4 hour shift, we do what we must to minimize additional labor for the line cooks.

6.      Whisk constantly over medium-high heat until the liquid is tightened as described and then reduce heat to low and begin whisking in—furiously—the butter cubes.  As soon as the sauce incorporates the butter, pull it from the flame and keep warm at 140°F but NO higher! Even prepared with roux, butter sauces are still delicate and break at the slightest mistreatment. 

7.      Never store leftover buerre blanc sauces, always prepare fresh each day for each shift that requires them. 

This is a delicious “cheater’s sauce” but what the heck, you do what you must do to (1) serve only the best and (2) make things easier for the harried line cooks.  The beauty of this sauce is that it accomplishes both!

--------------------------------------------

As always, we have a great time around here and that is why we want all of you to become a part of the organization by submitting articles to us for inspection and full-credit.  It is a great thing if you would do this, as it is a symbiotic relationship: we give you the space to share your recipes and in return, you send us more and more people who will become dedicated followers of the END.  Currently of multi-diversity across the Internet, it is important that we hear the voices of more and more people from all walks of the foodservice profession —join us. We urge our readership to write to us, leave comments, and if there are any of you, who would care to write an article for us, please get in touch via Magnolia Hilltop Brewers, P.O. Box 20669, Bakersfield, CA 93390-0669.  We obviously do not pay anything but give YOU full byline and that, my friends, is worth its weight in gold.  We want as many people who want to write to be able to do so and we believe that by presenting a forum for our fellow chefs, we are doing something for our beloved industry.  We love diversity and hope to add new and different authors to our pantheon of chefs, food and beverage directors, and culinary professionals.  Come on and join us, it will be fun! Expect that when all of us have run through our cycle, we will be introducing some brand-new talent or so Stinky says.

Please remember to avoid doing business with AARC Technology in Bakersfield, CA.  These people do not care about the small customer anymore but instead put all of their attentions onto their corporate customers. It is sad to not remember why one has the success they do or from where it came.

            With today accomplished, we have just four more days to go and then I am off to Puerto Rico for a fun vacation.  I love getting away from the locale in which, I live, even though I have a good life there but like everyone else, we all need a vacation, none of this STAYCATION crap promoted by the Administration! When Americans no longer have the power to get into their cars, onto airplanes, ships, trains, or any other mode of transportation due to fears about Global Warming, high fuel costs, and other idiocies coming out of our government, it is the backdoor way of depriving us of our liberties.  Americans are all about FREEDOM and freedom means being able to go where one wants to go and having the independent means to get there.  The costs of gasoline are due to the taxes piled atop them by both state and federal governments and if not there, gas might cost no more than a buck-and-a-half.  Somewhere along the way, Americans have been sold a bill of goods that has gradually robbed them of their abilities to do the things they always have done: travel around their home states, their regions, the nation, and the world.  Change must come and soon!             

Anyhow, let us close with this impassioned plea—please leave some comments and/or become a follower and why not spend some money and purchase an album by SANTANA and/or buy a cookbook from Amazon.com—we want to make some money here so help us out by buying something!  Allied with them, we are pleased to market their merchandise! See you next time around! Bye!  

Thanks, my friends!

Gervais

Gervais Krinkelmeier
ACF, CEC, American Bakers’ Association, the Bread Bakers’ Guild of America, Professional Chef and Baker for 45 years.
Here I am again back in 1981 at a Chefs de Cuisine dinner in Los Angeles, California, at the Century Plaza Hotel. I was among the chefs who worked the dinner and it was there that I met Stinkbug, my good friend. We later worked together in Washington State in the Puget Sound area, primarily Mukilteo. I began my career in 1972 in Culver City, California but presently make my home in Frazier Park, California.

Chef Krinkelmeier writes from Frazier Park, CA.

---30---

The END Commentary for Wednesday, September 19, 2012 by Chef Gervais Krinkelmeier



Please note that everyone who writes for the Elemental News of the Day is their own person entitled to their own opinions, attitudes, and insanity so does not necessarily speak for all of us.  Thanks, Stinkbug.

REFERENCES:

The one-and-only Chef Gervais Krinkelmeier wrote this original essay.



Recipe created by Chef Gervais Krinkelmeier on June 17, 1986 in Los Angeles, CA.

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The Chef’s Culinary Nightmare: the end is indeed coming soon so beware of BOTH November 06 AND December 21, 2012!






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