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Monday, September 10, 2012

“Mis-en-Place Index, Part XXIII: Today’s Mis-en-Place Institutional-sized Topic is Gervais’ Mukilteo Clam Chowder—perhaps the Best Chowder ever seen on Planet Earth!” by Chef Gervais Krinkelmei



We continue offering albums today by SANTANA, both as a group bearing his name and as a solo artist.  Santana’s twelfth group album, “Inner Secrets,” came out in October 1978 and is an exceptional studio album, featuring pretty much the same band Carlos has used since the “Amigos” album.  We love this album and know you will, too, so we urge you to go to Amazon.com immediately and BUY it by using the convenient link above!




COUNTDOWN TO THE END OF THE MAYAN CALENDAR


Here is the countdown to December 21, 2012: from today, we have 104 days to go until the End of Days, the End of Time, Armageddon, and the End of the Mayan Calendar!  Everybody, beware!



STINKBUG 2012





Chef Gervais Krinkelmeier

END Commentary 09-11-2012

Copyright © 2012 by MHB Productions

Word Count: 1,791.



AMERICAN INSTITUTE OF CULINARY POLITICS



ELEMENTALNEWSOFTHEDAY.BLOGSPOT.COM-STINKBUG—THE HEADLINES

Elemental News of the Day Commentary-Opinion-Sports-Foodservice for Tuesday, September 11, 2012 by Chef Gervais Krinkelmeier



MIS-EN-PLACE INDEX—INSTITUTIONAL SIZES

Mis-en-Place Index, Part XXIII: Today’s Mis-en-Place Institutional-sized Topic is Gervais’ Mukilteo Clam Chowder—perhaps the Best Chowder ever seen on Planet Earth!” by Chef Gervais Krinkelmeier

PUNISHMENT WEEK NUMBER ONE FOR CHEF GERVAIS

Bakersfield, CA, 09-11-2012 T: Punishment week moves on and here we are, Tuesday, with (hopefully) no more than another five days to go unless I say something else or miss Hump Day but what bonehead would do either one?  I told Lucy to pack the bags and get the kids squared away to bring themselves and the grandkids as San Juan is lovely at the end of the late summer/early fall.  Down on the valley floor in Bakersfield, summer normally does not end until late in September whereas up here in the mountains another 4-5 thousand feet, things are much nicer, the woods cooler, the air crisp, clean, and invigorating.  I enjoyed working in the Pacific Northwest but then when I came to Kern County due to Stinkbug asking me to visit in the early 2000s, I liked what I saw, took the trip around the entire county—which is bigger than New Jersey, my friends—liked what I saw and moved the family here.  Lucy was tired of living in the snow and ice of Washington State and so moved to the snow and ice of Frazier Park, Lake of the Woods, and Pine Mountain Club, California.  She knew it got cold up here but had no idea that in many ways, it is indeed similar to the Northwest except that we live in mountains without any great amounts of flowing water.  Of course, the woods breathe with creeks and streams so we reminisce about the old days, watching the ferries flow past on all fronts, plying the Puget Sound and the waters farther north around the San Juan Islands.  Maybe that is why we love San Juan so much, we love it in Washington State and love in Puerto Rico!

Today, we move in a different direction, into the realm of the Soup Seminar, but one must understand that in LARGE restaurant operations, the prepmaster or sous chef manages the back kitchen where all quantity foods are prepared.  When things get gigantic, then the prepmaster is in charge of making soups, sauces, meat-and-fish preparations either in conjunction with the sous chef or on his or her own PLUS assist the chef with ordering, receiving, and maintaining inventory.  It is a demanding job from which, many collapse, fail, fall into drink and drugs due to the pressure the job exerts on them.  Still, if one enjoys challenges, likes to take charge, one can become a great chef in his or her own right and the following recipe is something that makes them such: Mukilteo Clam Chowder, the one I still make to this day!

(#606) MUKILTEO CLAM CHOWDER—INSTITUTIONAL SIZE



While working in the Great Pacific Northwest, I had opportunity to work in many seafood restaurants and learned from the best chefs available.  I took ideas learned from them, transformed them into things ten times better than anything they produced, and took them with me wherever I journeyed over the course of my lengthy career.  This is one such chowder I learned years ago, took it and improved it, and now it is mine, tried and true.  It is one that does justice to any restaurant in which, you serve it and it builds reputations faster than anything else I know of similar type so use it well.

Yield:  22 gallons / Mis-en-place: 1 hour plus:



Qty.
Measure
Item
Other
22
48-oz. cans
Clam juice

1.5
#
Better-than-Bouillon clam base

7
#
Diced celery

9
#
Diced yellow onions

2
#
Minced carrots

1
Cup
Diced salt pork

3
Cups
Diced cooked bacon

2
Gallons
Whole milk

4
Gallons
Heavy cream

1
#
Sweet butter

5
Quarts
Clam juice

3/8
Cup
Whole dried thyme

.25
Cup
White pepper

1/3
Cup
Ground nutmeg

1
Cup
Lemon zest

2/3
Cup
Granulated garlic

3/16
Cup
Ground bay leaf

6
#
Cornstarch

30
#
White rose potatoes, peeled
Half-inch diced
10
48-oz. cans
Chopped clams with juice
Chop clams SMALL
2
Cups
Freshly minced parsley
Rinsed and dried



Method:

1.      Mis-en-place: have everything ready with which to work! For best results, this recipe requires a steam jacket/kettle so that the possibility of scorching it is IMPOSSIBLE.  Determine whether it has sufficient water in it, and then fire it up to operating temperature but never overly hot, only MEDIUM HEAT AT ALL TIMES, JUST ENOUGH TO PERFORM THE DIRECTIONS!

2.      Bring to heat the first TEN ingredients in the steam jacket.  Make sure you mince the carrots SMALL as we include them more for color than flavor.  Run them through a robo-coupe or food processor for best effect and then rinse them thoroughly underneath cold running water.

3.      Meanwhile, combine the FIVE quarts of clam juice with the spices, whipping on medium speed in an electric mixer equipped with a WHIP attachment.  Add the spices and continue mixing for a few minutes and then stop. 

4.      Now, this part takes time but is essential to the success of the chowder: run the clam juice-spice mixture through a blender, 30 seconds for each batch, in as many batches as it takes to whip them until combined; then, pour them back into the mixing bowl for storage.  We do this to minimize any chance of spice clumps forming, which is a distinct possibility if everything is lumped together at the beginning of the preparation. 

5.      Back in the mixing bowl, hook up the WHIP attachment once again and combine this mixture with the cornstarch, blending well.  Force this sludge through a colander to remove any large clumps of starch.  Bring the chowder to a boil and then vigorously begin whisking this mixture into the liquid.

6.      Keep stirring the chowder until it returns to a boil and once there, add the diced potatoes.  It will drop in heat but bring it back to a boil and add the chopped clams with juice. Return it to a boil one last time and then drop the heat to minimum and allow it to perk for five minutes; finally, stir in the RINSED and DRIED parsley flakes.

7.      Check the flavor and if satisfactory, begin transferring it into two-inch hotel pans and immediately place in the walk-in refrigerator on unencumbered racks.  Make sure air can circulate, both from above and below.  As you bring the pans in, spray sheets of wax paper with PAM or some such other food release spray and place them atop each pan to minimize any chance of unsightly skins forming.

8.      When 45°F or less in temperature, remove the wax paper, discard it, and transfer into sanitized airtight five-gallon buckets equipped with tight-fitting lids.  The chowder remains usable for five days, NO more.  The line cooks dip out what is needed, heat it up in double boilers, and transfer it to soup urns for the servers.  Never return leftover chowder to the parent batches and if any of it overheats and discolors due to lack of water in the bottom of the kettle pots on the line, toss it out IMMEDIATELY as it is unfit to serve.  

This chowder is the ultimate best, it is different from anything else available anywhere.  It is tried and true, tested over long periods for quality and accuracy of preparation.  Never leave soups, chowders, or any other similar items unattended at any time during preparation lest they become damaged or unusable.
--------------------------------------------

As always, we have a great time around here and that is why we want all of you to become a part of the organization by submitting articles to us for inspection and full-credit.  It is a great thing if you would do this, as it is a symbiotic relationship: we give you the space to share your recipes and in return, you send us more and more people who will become dedicated followers of the END.  Currently of multi-diversity across the Internet, it is important that we hear the voices of more and more people from all walks of the foodservice profession —join us. We urge our readership to write to us, leave comments, and if there are any of you, who would care to write an article for us, please get in touch via Magnolia Hilltop Brewers, P.O. Box 20669, Bakersfield, CA 93390-0669.  We obviously do not pay anything but give YOU full byline and that, my friends, is worth its weight in gold.  We want as many people who want to write to be able to do so and we believe that by presenting a forum for our fellow chefs, we are doing something for our beloved industry.  We love diversity and hope to add new and different authors to our pantheon of chefs, food and beverage directors, and culinary professionals.  Come on and join us, it will be fun! Expect that when all of us have run through our cycle, we will be introducing some brand-new talent or so Stinky says.

Please remember to avoid doing business with AARC Technology in Bakersfield, CA.  These people do not care about the small customer anymore but instead put all of their attentions onto their corporate customers. It is sad to not remember why one has the success they do or from where it came.

             Today is my ninth straight day and God, I hope I learn the lesson Stinkbug is trying to teach me, not to say anything negative about our beloved president.  I hope that the election is an enormous landslide and that Americans say “enough of this,” stand up, take the reins of power back, and make capitalism the guiding light of the world.  Look, I cannot hire anyone right now for fear of the healthcare bill; it is going to destroy the ability of every employer to offer insurance to his or her employees.  It is a good thing we write with pseudonyms because if my employees knew I was dropping their healthcare by the beginning of 2013, they would up and quit on me right now but what can I do?  I am going to go broke if forced to provide healthcare for them so guess what— I am going to jettison them!  The law forces them to buy their healthcare from any number of exchanges that will be opening soon, as soon as the bill becomes law in 2014, man, something must happen between now and then and they call it an ELECTION!    

Anyhow, let us close with this impassioned plea—please leave some comments and/or become a follower and why not spend some money and purchase an album by SANTANA and/or buy a cookbook from Amazon.com—we want to make some money here so help us out by buying something!  Allied with them, we are pleased to market their merchandise! See you next time around! Bye!  

Thanks, my friends!

Gervais

Gervais Krinkelmeier
ACF, CEC, American Bakers’ Association, the Bread Bakers’ Guild of America, Professional Chef and Baker for 45 years.
This is a photo of me back in 1981 at a Chefs de Cuisine dinner in Los Angeles, California, at the Century Plaza Hotel. I was among the chefs who worked the dinner and it was there that I met Stinkbug, my good friend. We later worked together in Washington State in the Puget Sound area, primarily Mukilteo. I began my career in 1972 in Culver City, California but presently make my home in Frazier Park, California.

Chef Krinkelmeier writes from Frazier Park, CA.

---30---

The END Commentary for Tuesday, September 11, 2012 by Chef Gervais Krinkelmeier



Please note that everyone who writes for the Elemental News of the Day is their own person entitled to their own opinions, attitudes, and insanity so does not necessarily speak for all of us.  Thanks, Stinkbug.

REFERENCES:

The one-and-only Chef Gervais Krinkelmeier wrote this original essay.



Recipe created by Chef Gervais Krinkelmeier on August 18, 1996 in Seattle, WA.

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The Chef’s Culinary Nightmare: the end is indeed coming soon so beware of BOTH November 06 AND December 21, 2012!






President Barack Obama

OR
Governor Mitt Romney



IT’S YOUR CALL IN NOVEMBER!














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