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Thursday, August 30, 2012

“Yeast Bread Seminar, Part XXXVI: Today’s Specialty Flour Roll features Millet (Sorghum) Flour, one of the Chef’s Favorites” by Chef Pedro R. Munoz



We continue offering albums today by SANTANA, both as a group bearing his name and as a solo artist.  Carlos Santana’s first collaboration album, “Carlos Santana & Buddy Miles! Live!,” came out on June 07, 1972 and was a wild live album recorded in Hawaii with some of Santana’s original band as well as some of Buddy Miles’.  It is a great album and features a wild rendition of “Them Changes” with Buddy doing the vocals.  This is a fantastic album, one worth buying!  Please go to Amazon.com right now and BUY this stellar album by using the convenient link above!




COUNTDOWN TO THE END OF THE MAYAN CALENDAR


Here is the countdown to December 21, 2012: from today, we have 115 days to go until the End of Days, the End of Time, Armageddon, and the End of the Mayan Calendar!  Everybody, beware!



STINKBUG 2012





Chef Pedro R. Munoz

END Commentary 08-31-2012

Copyright © 2012 by MHB Productions

Word Count: 2,789.



AMERICAN INSTITUTE OF CULINARY POLITICS



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Elemental News of the Day Commentary-Opinion-Sports-Foodservice for Friday, August 31, 2012 by Chef Pedro R. Munoz



YEAST BREAD SEMINAR, PT. XXXVI

Yeast Bread Seminar, Part XXXVI: Today’s Specialty Flour Roll features Millet (Sorghum) Flour, one of the Chef’s Favorites” by Chef Pedro R. Munoz

Bakersfield, CA, 08-31-2012 F: Thankfully, Friday arrives and that means we head into the weekend and then out and gone.  I am always pleased when the weekends roll around because Friday and Saturday nights are party nights meaning that we hit every bar in Bakersfield worth hitting.  Life moves along at a slow pace in some parts of this city so we may have to head out to Taft, CA, or somewhere else so we can meet strange women.  Life for a chef can be fun at times while others are intense but one must always look into a profession prior to joining it.  Many think opening a restaurant is easy when in fact, it is not and I cannot begin to count the numbers of losers falling by the wayside every single day across this wonderful nation and around the world who opened a restaurant just because they “love to cook.”

            Today’s bread is a beauty, it is made with millet or sorghum flour, you find it at health food stores, specialty supermarkets, and other eclectic retail stores as well as Amazon.com.  It is slightly yellow in color, has marvelous flavor, aroma, taste, and appearance, and once used, it becomes a part of one’s repertoire quickly so let us go:

(#132) MILLET (SORGHUM) ROLL DOUGH

Professional bakers search for new and exciting things with which to enliven their baked goods and millet (sorghum) flour was one such acquisition to my baking repertoire in the early 1980s.  Delicious, it enlivens the flavor of bread immensely as well as lightens them.  This is one with which, every baker need be enlightened as his or her baking changes forever once used. 

Yield:  30-35 rolls / Mis-en-place: 1-1.5 hours:



Qty.
Measure
Item
Other
.25
Cup
Tepid water (105°F-115°F)

2
Ounces
Fresh cake yeast

1
Cup
Tepid milk (105°F-115°F)

2
Large
AA eggs

3/8
Cup
Honey

1
Tablespoon
Kosher salt

1.5
Teaspoons
Vanilla extract

5/8
Cup
Vegetable oil

1
Cup
Millet (sorghum) flour

4.5-10
Cups
Bread flour

Yellow cornmeal

The Eggwash and the Finish:
1
Each
Large egg

.125
Cup
Milk

Millet seeds

Drawn butter




Method:

1.      Mis-en-place: have everything ready with which to work! Prepare two sheet pans by spraying them with PAM or with some such other food release spray, then by lining them with parchment or wax paper, then by spraying the paper with food release spray, and finally by dusting each with yellow cornmeal.  Set them aside and have ready.

2.      Next, using an electric mixer equipped with a dough hook, dissolve the yeast in the tepid water by rotating the hook at slow speed.  When it is dissolved, remove the bowl from the machine, cover it with a dry cloth, place somewhere relatively warm and free from drafts—i.e., an unused oven or a high kitchen shelf—and allow the yeast to “activate.”

3.      This takes anywhere from five-20 minutes in the winter and even less during the summer and when working with fresh cake yeast, this is a very important step.  Let me say a word about yeasts for a moment:

a.      Fresh cake is the best as it is flavorful, it is what breweries use when making beer whereas Active Dry Yeast is a dried form and the ratio between fresh and active is approximately 2:1.  The third yeast—SAF—is yeast added directly to the flour like baking powder or soda and does not need activation.  Professional bakers prefer fresh cake and that is what I use and will use in this recipe.

4.      When the yeast begins bubbling, it is alive and ready for use.  Return the mixing bowl to the mixer, hook up the dough hook, and add the warm milk, beaten eggs, honey, salt, vanilla extract, vegetable oil and millet (sorghum) flour, blending well.  Mix at low speed until combined and then, begin scaling in the bread flour along the sides of the mixing bowl all the while rotating the hook at low speed.  This part takes time.

5.      Normally, the dough incorporates the first amount of bread flour listed and then due to a variety of reasons (weather, humidity, the season, even the flour, itself), the dough may require more and sometimes less flour, which is why this part is the variable in the yeast dough formula.  What you do here is to continue adding bread flour to the rotating dough (low speed) bit-by-bit until the dough climbs onto the dough hook and remains there.  During the time of adding, it will climb onto and pull back off multiple times.  Continue adding flour slowly until it finally climbs onto the hook, remaining there, for 1-2 minutes; if it does this, the dough is ready to proof.

a.      Why does it do this? Yeast doughs are not quickbread batters meaning that unlike the latter which uses a set amount of ingredients each and every time you make it, yeast doughs are affected by the aforementioned things: the time of year, the kitchen’s humidity (or lack of it), flour quality, and heat (or lack of it).  The dough rotates around the bowl on low speed incorporating flour but it continually pulls itself back off and onto the sides of the bowl until finally—when sufficient flour is added—it climbs onto the hook and remains there for 60-120 seconds—then, it has had enough.

6.      Pull the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface and there, begin the process of kneading it by hand.  Never knead yeast dough using the machine—this easily over-kneads it, tearing it apart and causing it to pull apart during not only proofing but also baking producing a horrible-looking loaf.  It is important to knead dough the old-fashioned way—by hand with the aid of a rolling pin. 

a.      Roll the dough outwards away from you with the pin until it is approximately half-an-inch thick; then, fold the far end back over the middle halfway then roll it out flat again.  Next, fold the sides in upon one another until they overlap, using whatever flour necessary with which to roll the dough out, and then roll it out flat again. 

b.      Now, roll the top and the sides over upon one another to form a ball and then repeat the process.  Do this at least once more than transfer the dough to a lightly floured bowl twice its size, cover with a cloth, set someplace warm (like an unused oven or a high kitchen shelf), and allow it to rise one time undisturbed.  (Roll doughs only rise once and once more when formed).

7.      While the dough proofs, it is time to do TWO things: (a) the Brick Method (below) and (b) set the oven temperature: we do the second first: set standard oven to 375°F or convection oven—fan “off”—to 325°F.  Here is the Brick Method rundown:

THE BRICK METHOD

Professional bakeries use steam-injected ovens, which increase the “spring” of their yeast breads.  Never use this technique for quickbreads or muffins—ONLY for yeast breads. 

The term, “oven spring” is one used by bakers around the world and it means that when the risen raw dough—either loaves or rolls—is placed inside one’s preheated convection oven, it jumps the moment the fan is switched “on.” Bakeries use steam-injected convection ovens, which allow them to (1) increase the size of their yeast breads through the phenomenon of “oven spring” as well as (2) hardening the outer crusts through the injection of steam at a crucial moment at the start of the baking process. 

Normally, loaves traditionally bake in standard ovens but bakeries tend to bake both loaves and rolls in convection ovens because it increases their size once you turn the fan "on."   Bakers at home generally do not have convection ovens unless they have either a Jenn-Aire Range or restaurant equipment. However, most restaurant bakers have convection ovens but do NOT have steam-injection capacity so it is convenient for them to use the Brick Method, too, as I have done over the course of my entire career.  Therefore, if one wants to bake like a professional bakery in a bakery, they must use this method:

This is how it works: first, buy 3-4 firebricks at your local hardware store and if at home, buy a metal half hotel pan from the local restaurant supply store.  While making your bread dough, heat the bricks on the stovetop (gas is best) as well as a pot of hot water.  Then, when your yeast loaves are proofing and ALMOST ready to hit the preheated oven, approximately 5 minutes before they are due to enter it place the metal pan on the oven floor. Then, place 1-2 HOT bricks within it using heavy gloves, and then standing back so as to avoid the sudden upward-rising blast of hot steam, pour the water over the bricks. Then, slam the door shut and allow the oven to steam for at least 5 minutes.

When the proofed bread is ready to go in, place it atop the middle oven rack of the steam-injected oven and shut the door immediately.  Allow them to bathe within the steam for at least 5 minutes and if using a convection oven, throw the switch “on” after 1-2 minutes and watch the loaves or rolls JUMP UP.  After a total of five minutes, remove the pan, the bricks, and whatever—if any—water remains and continue baking until baked.

I discovered this method years ago when I first read about “oven spring” in a baker’s book from the 1950’s.  I talked to professional bread bakers outside of restaurants and they explained the process to me.  I began employing it, discovered fantastic test results, and have used it both on the job and at home for at least 25 years.  You can obtain similar results and have success with your baking by employing it, just remember to be extremely careful! 

8.      The rolls we make today are going to be simple BUNS.  Bring the dough down from where it was proofing as soon as DOUBLED in size: it will strain beneath the cloth as it tries to escape the bowl.  Then, when you remove it, poke it with a moistened index finger and if ready, the hole remains and if it springs back up, proof a bit longer.  At this point, it is ready for work so scoop it out of the bowl and onto the work surface.  Allow it to rest for 3-4 minutes and then roll it out flat with a rolling pin, approximately half-an-inch thick. 

9.      Cut the dough into long strips approximately 1.5-to-2 inches thick.  Then with moistened fingers, quickly roll each one into a ball and place on the prepared trays, right next to one another.  In this way, they rise together—straight up—like the kinds of rolls, we remember as kids in grade school cafeterias.  If spaced out, they become harder rather than softer so what we strive for today is a fluffy-light bun, the kind that melt in one’s mouth.  ]

10. Space them side by side and if possible, you may get all or most onto a single sheet pan.  When you finish shaping and panning the rolls, cover with a cloth, place somewhere relatively warm, and allow to proof until doubled in size.  As they do this, beat the egg and milk—forming eggwash—and then force it through a fine-meshed sieve into a bowl.  The purpose of this is to remove all egg white lumps (albumin) so that the mixture is homogenous; set aside.  As soon as the rolls double in size, brush them gently with the eggwash. Finally, sprinkle them with millet seeds. 

11. As the rolls sit a few minutes longer, humidify the oven with the bricks and hot water NOW.  Allow the steam to swirl about the oven and then insert the rolls on the middle oven rack(s) and quickly shut the door keeping the steam trapped within.  If using the convection oven, do NOT flip the switch “on” yet. 

12. After 3-4 minutes, flip the switch (or ignore if using standard oven) and keep baking.  After another 4-6 minutes, pull the bricks and pan out of the oven and keep baking, approximately 20-25 minutes or until the rolls are firm, brown, and when pressed, spring back at you.  Lift the corner underneath one roll and peer beneath—if brown and all the rest of the signs apparent, pull the pan out, set it atop a cooling rack, and immediately brush with drawn butter.  By using drawn butter, there are no bits of whey and milk fat contained in regular butter thereby producing top-quality rolls.  After 5-8 minutes, the rolls are ready to serve so cut the rows with a dough knife lengthwise and widthwise, remove them, and serve with plenty of fresh whipped butter.

13. Always wrap leftovers in plastic wrap and then seal in Zip Loc bags if not used within day of baking.  For best results, freeze them rather than refrigerating as they tend to dry out in the fridge.  Heat them up in the microwave or warm oven and try to use them within 3-4 days at most; after that, they dry out and are unusable.  Normally, homemade bread remains fresh sitting out for a day but you must cover it with plastic wrap; after that, you must freeze it. 

Always among my favorite specialty flours, millet is spectacular in both flavor, texture, and enlivens any bread in which you utilize it.  Keep this one handy, as it is a true gem and a must-have in all bakeries.

--------------------------------------------

As always, we have a great time around here and that is why we want all of you to become a part of the organization by submitting articles to us for inspection and full-credit.  It is a great thing if you would do this, as it is a symbiotic relationship: we give you the space to share your recipes and in return, you send us more and more people who will become dedicated followers of the END.  Currently of multi-diversity across the Internet, it is important that we hear the voices of more and more people from all walks of the foodservice profession —join us. We urge our readership to write to us, leave comments, and if there are any of you, who would care to write an article for us, please get in touch via Magnolia Hilltop Brewers, P.O. Box 20669, Bakersfield, CA 93390-0669.  We obviously do not pay anything but give YOU full byline and that, my friends, is worth its weight in gold.  We want as many people who want to write to be able to do so and we believe that by presenting a forum for our fellow chefs, we are doing something for our beloved industry.  We love diversity and hope to add new and different authors to our pantheon of chefs, food and beverage directors, and culinary professionals.  Come on and join us, it will be fun! Expect that when all of us have run through our cycle, we will be introducing some brand-new talent or so Stinky says.

Please remember to avoid doing business with AARC Technology in Bakersfield, CA.  These people do not care about the small customer anymore but instead put all of their attentions onto their corporate customers. It is sad to not remember why one has the success they do or from where it came.

            Tomorrow and Sunday are the last two days and then we bid one another ‘adios,’ my friends and farewell.  I love being your instructor and hope that everything, which we have done together, has been rewarding, informative, and enlightening.  Education is one of the most important aspects of modern life and never overlooked, and it is important that we place all young culinarians into the care of a fabled local chef to guide him or her along.  Of course, you must always inspect the backgrounds of those assigned to teach your children which we do by contacting the American Culinary Federation and requesting information as to whether the cook you have in mind is “okay” to teach your kids.  Most often, every member of the chef’s organization is a man or woman of high moral value, character, and dependability and safe with which, to leave one's kids.                               

Anyhow, let us close with this impassioned plea—please leave some comments and/or become a follower and why not spend some money and purchase an album by SANTANA and/or buy a cookbook from Amazon.com—we want to make some money here so help us out by buying something!  Allied with them, we are pleased to market their merchandise! See you next time around! Bye!  

Thank you!

Pedro Munoz

Executive Chef Pedro Munoz
CEC, American Culinary Federation, Inc.
This is a photo of me at an awards dinner in San Diego for the Chefs de Cuisine in 1978. I began my culinary career in the 1950's and had the good fortune of working with many different chefs before meeting my good friend, Stinkbug, in the mid 1980's in Bakersfield. I am still working part-time in my semi-retired years in my hometown in San Diego, CA.

Member of the CA063 San Diego Chefs de Cuisine Chapter

Chef Pedro writes from San Diego, CA.

---30---

The END Commentary for Friday, August 31, 2012 by Chef Pedro R. Munoz



Please note that everyone who writes for the Elemental News of the Day is their own person entitled to their own opinions, attitudes, and insanity so does not necessarily speak for all of us.  Thanks, Stinkbug.

REFERENCES:

The one-and-only Chef Pedro R. Munoz wrote this original essay.



Recipe created by Chef Pedro R. Munoz on July 31, 1982 in Bakersfield, CA.

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