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Monday, August 27, 2012

“Yeast Bread Seminar, Part XXXIII: Today’s Yeast Bread hails from Guatemala—Pan Guatemalteco, Corn-based, Multi-Grained, and totally Delicious!” by Chef Pedro R. Munoz



Today, we commence offering albums by SANTANA, both as a group bearing his name and as a solo artist.  The band’s first album, self-titled, is “Santana,” which came out in August 1969 and contained the monster hit, “Evil Ways” as well as “Soul Sacrifice,” songs that lit up the stage at Woodstock. Please go to Amazon.com right now and BUY this stellar album by using the convenient link above!



COUNTDOWN TO THE END OF THE MAYAN CALENDAR


Here is the countdown to December 21, 2012: from today, we have 118 days to go until the End of Days, the End of Time, Armageddon, and the End of the Mayan Calendar!  Everybody, beware!



STINKBUG 2012





Chef Pedro R. Munoz

END Commentary 08-28-2012

Copyright © 2012 by MHB Productions

Word Count: 2,124.



AMERICAN INSTITUTE OF CULINARY POLITICS



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Elemental News of the Day Commentary-Opinion-Sports-Foodservice for Tuesday, August 28, 2012 by Chef Pedro R. Munoz



YEAST BREAD SEMINAR, PT. XXXIII
Guatemalan Flag
Yeast Bread Seminar, Part XXXIII: Today’s Yeast Bread hails from Guatemala—Pan Guatemalteco, Corn-based, Multi-Grained, and totally Delicious!” by Chef Pedro R. Munoz

Bakersfield, CA, 08-28-2012 T: Hola, amigos, how is everyone today?  Yesterday was fun and today, we continue on with more exciting bread, this time with an international flair, it is delicious, different, and unique in that westerners lack knowledge of it as it hails from one of the lesser culinary areas of the world, Central America, primarily Guatemala.  Now, I hear you folks out there questioning in your minds as to what sort of bread comes from Guatemala.  You think it has to be like tortillas but my friends, there are other breads besides flatbreads, loaves made from corn, wheat, and other flours and this one is one of them, unique, different, exciting, and worth a try.   

I love baking and back in the late 1970s and into the early 1990s, I was a powerhouse in the kitchen baking night and day and writing about it in local newspapers. I searched the globe everywhere searching for things NO one else was making in the area and this is one of those inimitable specimens.  I like being unusual and doing different things, things that surprise, impress, and ultimately delight the consumer.  People see it on the menu, ask what it is and then when it arrives tableside, butter a slice, take a bite, and are in seventh heaven.  Yes, it is that good, it is delicious, atypical, and amazing and we make it today!

Here we go:

(#204) PAN GUATEMALTECO



Long fascinated by unusual breads, I attempted making many different types of breads throughout my great exploratory culinary years, 1979-1994, and this Guatemalan bread was one of them.  Corn-based, it has tremendous flavor, a different texture, and surprises most dining guests with the exception of Latin Americans.  It takes some time to make but once done is wonderful, delicious, and odd. 

Yield:  two loaves / Mis-en-place: 1.5-2.25 hours:




Qty.
Measure
Item
Other
.125
Cup
Tepid water

1.5
Ounces
Budweiser-brand fresh cake yeast

1.75
Cups
Boiling water

.5
Cup
Yellow cornmeal

.25
Teaspoon
Baking soda

.25
Cup
Dark molasses

.75
Ounce
Melted shortening

.25
Cup
Diced Ortega-brand green chilis

.25
Cup
Diced pimientos

2.25
Teaspoons
Kosher salt

2.5
Cups
Whole-wheat flour

4.25+
Cups
Bread flour

1
Each
Red bell pepper, seeded, stemmed, & de-ribbed, strip cut & blanched
Yellow cornmeal
The Eggwash:
1
Each
Large AA egg

.125
Cup
Cold water

Celery seeds

The Finish:
Drawn butter




Method:

1.      Mis-en-place: have everything ready with which to work! Prepare 1-2 sheet pans by spraying them with PAM or some such other food release spray, line them with wax paper, spray the paper with food release, too, and then sprinkle heavily with yellow cornmeal with which, to mimic the effects of baking on the oven floor as they did in the olden days. 

a.      If using the brick method, let me say a few words on the subject: professional and institutional foodservice baking ovens are equipped with steam injection systems, which dramatically increase the “oven spring” effect when we introduce steam into a hot oven at the start of the baking process.  At home, we cannot do this so we have to imitate it by heating firebricks over open flame as well as a pot of water to the boiling point.  Then prior to placing the proofed loaves in the oven, we place a metal hotel pan with the HOT bricks in it, pour boiling water atop them, and slam the door shut.  Always be sure to STAND BACK when pouring the water over the bricks to prevent scalding by the upward blast of rising steam! Then, after 10 minutes pass, we pull the pan, bricks, and remaining water out of the oven and set them aside.  Therefore, if you plan to use this method, have these things at hand and you will be informed when to use them.

2.      Place the fresh cake yeast into the bowl of your electric mixer outfitted with a dough hook attachment.  Add the tepid water, between 105°F-110°F, and cover the pot for several minutes.  Check it at the end of this time for BUBBLES; bubbles denote yeast activity and that it is living, ready to work, and good. 

3.      In another bowl, combine the yellow cornmeal with the boiling water and allow it to sit for several minutes; then, add the baking soda, molasses, melted shortening, diced Ortega-brand green chilis, pimientos, and salt, stirring well. 

4.      Begin rotating the mixer’s hook on low speed and add the cornmeal mixture to it, rotating for several minutes until combined.  Add the whole-wheat flour and continue rotating the mixer on low speed and then stop. 

5.      If the mixture is too thick, add some additional warm water and begin mixing on low speed again.  This is a “two-part bread” so it is a bit unusual compared with other, traditional breads but remember: it is Latin American bread so it is different. 

6.      Begin scaling in the bread flour along the sides of the bowl, rotating the hook on low speed the entire time, until a dough forms.  Now, depending upon the time of year, humidity, and kitchen warmth or lack of, the final dough may require MORE bread flour than listed so continue adding it—slowly—until the dough pulls itself off the sides of the mixing bowl and climbs onto the hook and remains there for at least 60-90 seconds. 

7.      This is the part of the process, which confuses novice bakers—the formulas tend to be imprecise due to this specific factor.  Unlike quickbreads, muffins, and hotcakes, which require the same amount of ingredients each time you make them, yeast doughs can vary each time you make them.  Add the flour slowly until it climbs onto the hook, remains there, yet feels somewhat soft to the touch but not overly sticky—stickiness is the sign of dough that is not ready. 

8.      So, as the mixer continues rotating on low speed and the dough remains on the hook for the specified time, stop mixing, pull it out of the pot, and onto a lightly floured work surface.  Begin kneading the dough by rolling it out with a pin and then folding it halfway back in upon itself.  Then, pull the sides over until they meet in the center, then roll it over upon itself into a ball.

9.      Roll this ball back out and repeat the process several times until the dough feels like a living thing but if it begins to TEAR, STOP KNEADING! Roll it into a ball and place it into a lightly floured bowl twice its size, place it somewhere relatively warm like an unused oven or high kitchen shelf, cover with a towel, and permit it to rise the FIRST time.

10. The first rise takes the longest: anywhere from 15-40 minutes. When it has doubled in size, remove it from the bowl, re-round it, return it to the bowl and repeat the procedure, this time allowing about half the time of the first rise for the SECOND.

11. Preheat standard oven to 425°F or convection oven—fan “off”—to 375°F.  When the dough has risen, insert your index finger into the center of it up to the second knuckle and if the depression remains, it is ready with which to work and if not, if it springs back, continue the second proof.  At this point, heat the bricks and water and get ready.

12. As soon as the dough is ready, pull it down from the shelf or out of the oven and scoop it out onto a lightly floured work surface.  Divide it into TWO rounds, cover with a towel, and allow resting for 5-8 minutes; then, placing each round atop the prepared pan, covering with a towel and proofing the FINAL time.  

13. While the loaves proof, combine the egg with the water to form your eggwash.  Force the mixture through a fine-meshed sieve into a bowl.  The purpose of straining the wash is to rid of it any lumps of egg white albumin, as it appears “unprofessional” when blotches of it are visible on top of the baked loaves.  Have the wash ready as well as the drawn butter.  Use drawn butter to remove the whey and milk fats contained within it, which also appear unprofessional when, brushed over the baked loaves.  Place the pan with the HOT bricks inside the hot ovens on the oven floor and pour boiling water over them taking caution as advised earlier.  Shut the door and allow the oven to steam.

14. When the rounds have doubled in size, remove the towel, brush with the eggwash on all visible areas, line with blanched red bell pepper strips and dust with celery seeds.  Then, use a sharp knife to cut some slashes in the top of each with which to allow the heat to penetrate the interiors during baking.

15. Place the loaves into the prepared oven on the middle oven rack and quickly shut the door allowing the benefit of the steam to cause them to rise even more quickly.  If using a convection oven, keep the fan OFF for 3-4 minutes while the steam bathes the loaves, then flip it on and watch the oven spring effect—they jump dramatically!

16. Remove the pan with the bricks and bake for another 10 minutes; then, reduce the heat by 75°F and continue baking for another 25-30 minutes. Check the loaves at this point by feeling them: if they feel firm to the touch and you can pick each one up in a gloved hand, rap on its bottom with a bare knuckle, and if it sounds hollow, you baked them and if not, continue baking until they do.

17. Once you hear the “hollow” sound from rapping on their bottoms, pull them out, set them atop a cooling rack, and place the baking pan underneath for use as a drip tray.  Begin glazing them with drawn butter immediately as this is what gives them their ultimate glaze.  Douse them repeatedly until you use the butter up and they shine.  Continue the cooling process until you can slice them with a serrated-edged bread slicer.  Slice into inch thick slices and serve with whipped butter.

18. Always plastic wrap leftover loaves or slices and then wrap with aluminum foil.  Never wrap bread until completely COOL or it will steam and possibly turn rancid.  If you do not plan to use them within the day of baking, freeze them for use later but never keep bread frozen for longer than 5-7 days—after that: toss them out.  As for refrigerating them, breads tend to dry out much faster within the refrigerator than they do in the freezer due to the dryness of the environment so it is advisable never to put them there.

Unusual bread, Pan Guatemalteco is Guatemalan bread that is unlike any other bread known to Western bakers.  Still, it represents a challenge and if one has, “Latin American Night” at their restaurant, try this bread on the menu and watch the reactions of your customers—chances are, they will be pleased.  

--------------------------------------------

As always, we have a great time around here and that is why we want all of you to become a part of the organization by submitting articles to us for inspection and full-credit.  It is a great thing if you would do this, as it is a symbiotic relationship: we give you the space to share your recipes and in return, you send us more and more people who will become dedicated followers of the END.  Currently of multi-diversity across the Internet, it is important that we hear the voices of more and more people from all walks of the foodservice profession —join us. We urge our readership to write to us, leave comments, and if there are any of you, who would care to write an article for us, please get in touch via Magnolia Hilltop Brewers, P.O. Box 20669, Bakersfield, CA 93390-0669.  We obviously do not pay anything but give YOU full byline and that, my friends, is worth its weight in gold.  We want as many people who want to write to be able to do so and we believe that by presenting a forum for our fellow chefs, we are doing something for our beloved industry.  We love diversity and hope to add new and different authors to our pantheon of chefs, food and beverage directors, and culinary professionals.  Come on and join us, it will be fun! Expect that when all of us have run through our cycle, we will be introducing some brand-new talent or so Stinky says.

Please remember to avoid doing business with AARC Technology in Bakersfield, CA.  These people do not care about the small customer anymore but instead put all of their attentions onto their corporate customers. It is sad to not remember why one has the success they do or from where it came.

            What a week this is becoming, friends, smoking hot!  Yesterday, we celebrated Brian Carrick’s birthday and on Friday, it is Goldfish’s birthday, although I will spare you her age partly out of concern for my safety and respect for her.  How unique it is, mis amigos, lo que sera sera, no?  Life goes on and I am the lucky one around here because of all of the writers, I make the most one-of-a-kind, special, and exciting recipes unlike everybody else. Yeast breads is a difficult, time-consuming product and most of the chefs thank the Lord when they fail to pull that particular card out of Stinkbug’s hat.  I, however, am grateful to do so as that is what the Elemental News of the Day expects the Latin Baking King to do!                             

Anyhow, let us close with this impassioned plea—please leave some comments and/or become a follower and why not spend some money and purchase an album by SANTANA and/or buy a cookbook from Amazon.com—we want to make some money here so help us out by buying something!  Allied with them, we are pleased to market their merchandise! See you next time around! Bye!  

Thank you!

Pedro Munoz

Executive Chef Pedro Munoz
CEC, American Culinary Federation, Inc.
This is a photo of me at an awards dinner in San Diego for the Chefs de Cuisine in 1978. I began my culinary career in the 1950's and had the good fortune of working with many different chefs before meeting my good friend, Stinkbug, in the mid 1980's in Bakersfield. I am still working part-time in my semi-retired years in my hometown in San Diego, CA.

Member of the CA063 San Diego Chefs de Cuisine Chapter

Chef Pedro writes from San Diego, CA.

---30---

The END Commentary for Tuesday, August 28, 2012 by Chef Pedro R. Munoz



Please note that everyone who writes for the Elemental News of the Day is their own person entitled to their own opinions, attitudes, and insanity so does not necessarily speak for all of us.  Thanks, Stinkbug.

REFERENCES:

The one-and-only Chef Pedro R. Munoz wrote this original essay.



Recipe created by Chef Pedro R. Munoz on May 19, 1983 in Bakersfield, CA.

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