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Saturday, June 23, 2012

“Soup Seminar, Pt. XXXIII: Manhattan Clam Chowder—the Other Side of the Clam Chowder Coin” by Chef James “Jimmy” Hall



Today, we veer off from SPIRIT and delve into a band formed by Spirit vocalist Jay Ferguson and bassist, Mark Andes plus his brother Matt on lead guitar and drummer William “Curly” Smith: Jo Jo Gunne. Their second album, entitled, “Bite Down Hard” came out in 1973 and saw some personnel changes but still featured Jay Ferguson.  We love this band and know that you will, too, and suggest that you take the attached link to Amazon.com and buy “Jo Jo Gunne” now!  When the parent band reforms in a couple of years, we will return to them! Thank you, the Elemental News of the Day.  



COUNTDOWN TO THE END OF THE MAYAN CALENDAR…


Here's the countdown to December 21, 2012: from today, we have 183 days to go until the End of Days, the End of Time, Armageddon, and the End of the Mayan Calendar!  Everybody, beware!



STINKBUG 2012





Chef James “Jimmy” Hall

END Commentary 06-24-2012

Copyright © 2012 by MHB Productions

Word Count: 1,711.



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Elemental News of the Day Commentary-Opinion-Sports-Foodservice for Sunday, June 24, 2012 by Chef James “Jimmy” Hall

SOUP SEMINAR, PT XXXIII—MANHATTAN CLAM CHOWDER

 Soup Seminar, Pt. XXXIII: Manhattan Clam Chowder—the Other Side of the Clam Chowder Coin” by Chef James “Jimmy” Hall


Bakersfield, CA, 06-24-2012 Su: Sunday is a wonderful day because it means our week together has concluded and I will be out the door the minute the blog is received from my hand by Moses.  It also means that virtually no one online pays any attention to foodservice blogs, political blogs, and any other kind of blog unless there’s some sort of notoriety attached to it.  Therefore, instead of delivering the final stroke, I am giving you one that very few people are interested in, Manhattan Clam Chowder.  Never heard of it? Well, it’s NOT white chowder to be sure but it is chowder that is enjoyed and much beloved in certain parts of the country like New York City.  It is synonymous with an area and while there are adherents all around the world who love it, most people don’t know much about it.  So, that is why we are going to make it today, we are going to have fun, finish the week, and welcome your friend and mine, Vladimir Gdansk, tomorrow who will then take us all on his journey.  

Chowders are popular and as you saw yesterday, there are a great many of them.  What, exactly, is “chowder?” Chowder is a soup that has seafood and potatoes (generally) and then there are spinoffs like Corn Chowder, which is an anomaly, created by God knows who?  Still, corn chowder is a favorite and if you can buy it premade in a can then it’s okay by me!  The joy of working with soups and chowders is that like it or not, it’s an education into the culinary ways of the people and while there are many, many different soups being created all of the time, if one does NOT know the traditional classics, then one is simply shooting in the dark.  I think it’s a good thing to do what all of us here at the Elemental News of the Day have done: apprenticed under a master and learned the craft from the ground up rather than being the graduate of the Culinary Institute of America or some other high-class diploma cooking school.  Yes, if you have the money and that’s what you want to do, DO IT! However, if it is not Le Cordon Bleu in Paris, France, then it’s virtually worthless! Those schools are diploma mills and the education is worth nothing to a long-term professional who learned the craft from age six standing by the side of a harsh master!

Let’s make our soup!

(#601) MANHATTAN CLAM CHOWDER


There are many different variations of clam chowder throughout the United States and by expansion the world.  Each area of the country has its own favorite seafood chowder, generally white ones like Boston Clam Chowder, New England Clam Chowder, or Northwest Clam Chowder.  There are adherents to the other side of the coin—the tomato chowders such as Coney Island Chowder and Manhattan Clam Chowder.  This recipe is a tomato-based version and is popular on the East Coast more so than anywhere else but makes a good change whenever one wants something new. Delicious, different, and delightful, this is an excellent recipe, one you will come to love.

Yield:  about 1.5 quarts / Mis-en-place: 1.25 hours:




Qty.
Measure
Item
Other
1.5
Quarts
Water

3/8
#
Peeled and diced white rose potatoes

.75
#
Chopped clams with juice

1.5
Quarts
Water

3
Ounces
Finely diced salt pork

1.5
Cups
Tomato juice

1.25
Cups
Diced tomatoes with juice

2.25
Teaspoons
Lemon juice

3/8
Cup
Melted butter

1.5
Cups
Diced yellow onions

1.5
Cups
Diced celery

.75
Cup
Diced green bell peppers (stemmed, seeded, and de-ribbed)
3/8
cup
Grated carrots

1
Piece
Bay leaf

1.125
Teaspoons
Kosher salt

1.125
Teaspoons
Whole thyme

3/8
Teaspoon
White pepper

.125
Teaspoon
Whole marjoram

1
Teaspoon
Tabasco sauce

5/8
Cup
All-purpose flour

2.25
Teaspoon
Freshly minced parsley


White Rose Potatoes: the best potatoes for soup!

Method:

1.      Mis-en-place: have everything ready with which to work! The first thing to do is to prepare the potatoes so that they will be ready when it is time to finish the soup. Heat the water to a boil and then slightly lower it to a high simmer.  Add the potatoes and simmer until tender—approximately 35-45 minutes.  You want them to be al dente-tender, which is fork-tender but NO more.  Drain and reserve the liquid and place the spuds into a bowl of ice water to halt any further cooking. 

2.      Place the next SIX items plus the reserved potato water into a large soup pot and bring to a boil; once there, lower to a simmer and cook for 30 minutes or so until it comes down to about 5.5-cups of liquid.  Lower the flame. 
Crisco Pan Spray: “the Chef’s Friend.”
3.      Place a rondeau or large soup pot over a medium flame taking care to spray it with PAM or with another food release spray.  Add the butter and then add the vegetables.  Sauté them till tender; then add the spices and herbs and incorporate them into the roux.  Cook this mixture for 5-10 minutes or until it has puffed up a bit and is yellowish in color.

4.      Raise the heat underneath both the liquid and the roux.  Gradually pour the liquid into the roux—whisking briskly—until combined.  Lower the flame and continue whisking the soup as it simmers and cooks out the floury flavor. This takes a brief period of time but is essential to the success of the soup. 

5.      Check the thickness and the flavor: if too thick, blend in additional clam juice or tomato juice and if necessary readjust the seasonings and ultimate flavor.  Manhattan Clam Chowder should be somewhat spicy and zesty so don’t be shy with the pepper or Tabasco sauce.  Finally, add the parsley flakes and serve, either in individual soup cups or in a soup tureen at the table.

6.      Leftovers have to cool to below 45°F and accomplished by pouring them into a shallow baking dish or pan and then placing it atop a cooling rack.  Once below the Danger Zone, transfer the soup to a sanitized container equipped with a tight-fitting lid.  Label, date, and refrigerate.  Soup with seafood should be used within 3-5 days so always be sure to rehydrate and reheat to 165°F or hotter prior to service.

This is the classic opposite of WHITE chowders and is beloved in certain parts of the country and not so much in others.  Still, it’s good to vary your soup selection at times but generally, once the clientele becomes used to one or the other, they will not like it if you switch them up.  Needless to say, some change is NEVER good.  

--------------------------------------------

As always, we have a great time around here and that is why we want all of you to become a part of the organization by submitting articles to us for inspection and full-credit.  It is a great thing if you would do this, as it’s a symbiotic relationship: we give you the space to share your recipes and in return, you send us more and more people who will become dedicated followers of the END.  Currently of multi-diversity across the Internet, it is important that the voices of more and more people from all walks of the foodservice profession are heard—join us. We urge our readership to write to us, leave comments, and if there are any of you, who would care to write an article for us, please get in touch via Magnolia Hilltop Brewers, P.O. Box 20669, Bakersfield, CA 93390-0669.  We obviously don’t pay anything but you will be given a full byline and that’s worth its weight in gold.  We want as many people who want to write to be able to do so and we believe that by presenting a forum for our fellow chefs, we are doing something for our beloved industry.  We love diversity and hope to add new and different authors to our pantheon of chefs, food and beverage directors, and culinary professionals.  Come on and join us, it’ll be fun! Expect that when all of us have run through our cycle, we will be introducing some brand-new talent or so I’m told.

Please remember to avoid doing business with AARC Technology in Bakersfield, CA.  These people don’t care about the small customer anymore but instead put all of their attentions onto their corporate customers. It’s sad to not remember why one has the success they do or from where it came.

That’s it for me, my friends, I’ve made it through my week without having committed the cardinal sin: failing to mention “Hump Day.” We are all taking bets now and our bookies are making odds in Vegas as to who will be the first to fail and will have to do two weeks in a row.  All I can say is that it WILL NOT be me!  I’m too smart for that and you can’t bullshit a bullshitter is what I’ve always said.  That is a motto I learned from the master under whom I apprenticed as a child, he was a hard man who ruled me with his belt as much as he did with kindness.  Have any of you seen “Kill Bill II” and seen how the martial arts master taught Umma Thurman?  He beat the living crap out of her but man, did she learn her craft! That is how the old days of culinary instruction used to be: standing alongside the master from 4:30 A.M. until he stopped for the day around 10 P.M. and then went into the bar.  I had to sweep and mop the kitchen at age five and did so for the next 10 years.  Yes, I went to school but the weekends, holidays, and vacations from school were his and believe it or not, I’m the professional I am because of him!                                           

Anyhow, let us close with this impassioned plea—please leave some comments and/or become a follower and why not spend some money and purchase an album by SPIRIT/ Jo Jo Gunne and/or buy a cookbook from Amazon.com—we want to make some money here so help us out by buying something!  We are allied with them and are pleased to market their merchandise! See you next time around! Bye!  

Thank you!

Jimmy Hall

James Hall

Cook III, CWC, ACF, CA273 Santa Barbara ACF chapter and HI033 Maui Chef’s and Cook’s Association

______________________________________________________________________

This is me as a chef during the 1980's when we took a group photograph for a Chefs de Cuisine yearbook. At the time, I was working at a hotel in Bakersfield, CA, down on Union Avenue. It was still somewhat nice and the area was still the original "restaurant row" of the city. I am now in my sixties and am working over in Santa Barbara, CA, as a food and beverage director for a country club.

Chef James “Jimmy” Hall writes from Santa Barbara, CA.

---30---

The END Commentary for Sunday, June 24, 2012 by Chef James “Jimmy” Hall

Please note that everyone who writes for the Elemental News of the Day is their own person entitled to their own opinions, attitudes, and insanity so does not necessarily speak for all of us.  Thanks, Stinkbug.

REFERENCES:

The one-and-only Chef James “Jimmy” Hall writes this original essay.



Recipe created by Chef James “Jimmy” Hall on June 27, 1985 in Bakersfield, CA.

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The Chef’s Culinary Nightmare: the end is indeed coming soon so beware of BOTH November 06 AND December 21, 2012!

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