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Sunday, June 24, 2012

“Famous Restaurant Recipes, Pt. LV: Veal ala Cyrano—a Variation on Veal Scaloppini made with Shitake Mushrooms—Spectacular!” by Chef Vladimir Gdansk



Today, we veer off from SPIRIT and delve into a band formed by Spirit vocalist Jay Ferguson and bassist, Mark Andes plus his brother Matt on lead guitar and drummer William “Curly” Smith: Jo Jo Gunne. Their third album, entitled, “Jumpin’ the Gunne” came out in 1973 as did yesterday’s album, “Bite Down Hard,” and saw some personnel changes but still featured Jay Ferguson.  We love this band and know that you will, too, and suggest that you take the attached link to Amazon.com and buy “Jo Jo Gunne” now!  When the parent band reforms in a couple of years, we will return to them! Thank you, the Elemental News of the Day.  



COUNTDOWN TO THE END OF THE MAYAN CALENDAR…


Here's the countdown to December 21, 2012: from today, we have 182 days to go until the End of Days, the End of Time, Armageddon, and the End of the Mayan Calendar!  Everybody, beware!



STINKBUG 2012





Chef Vladimir Gdansk

END Commentary 06-25-2012

Copyright © 2012 by MHB Productions

Word Count: 2,316.



AMERICAN INSTITUTE OF CULINARY POLITICS



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Elemental News of the Day Commentary-Opinion-Sports-Foodservice for Monday, June 25, 2012 by Chef Vladimir Gdansk

FAMOUS RESTAURANT RECIPES, PT. lv

 Famous Restaurant Recipes, Pt. LV: Veal ala Cyrano—a Variation on Veal Scaloppini made with Shitake Mushrooms—Spectacular!” by Chef Vladimir Gdansk



Bakersfield, CA, 06-25-2012 M: Greetings, friends! I have returned to write another week here at the Elemental News of the Day and am happy to be here as last time, it was just after the New Year’s by a couple of weeks.  This is the year 2012 and it is said that things are going to happen on December 21, 2012, which I feel is a bunch of crap.  How can a primitive culture or series of cultures predict what is going to happen far into the future and how can it be that modern people put any credence into it?  Sure, the History and Discovery Channels and other oddball networks are getting people worried about it and then you have fools like Iran (which in my estimation, need to be blown off of the map!) who are a big end-time culture in their own right talking crap.  The fact that Stinkbug is a big end time guy means that we all have to pay attention to the doomsday counter but I don’t believe any of this for one minute!

  Therefore, here I am with the Famous Restaurant Recipes series again which in my understanding ran the week before last—great! I get to pick it back up, continue with another week of fabulous dishes, and believe me, I’m happy to do so.  I love cooking and love working with quality meats, foods, and sauces and this will be a week of fun as we do OLD dishes.  The week before last, Chef McCardle ran a bunch of new wave culinary classics so it makes me proud to present to you a bunch of old ones. 

(#1098) VEAL ALA CYRANO


Back in the days of my time in haute cuisine, I learned many of the classic dishes and their variations over the course of about a decade.  This is one of the more delicious veal dishes that fares particularly well when run as a special. Try it and see if it works for you but note that the trick is in making a tasty demi-glace sauce, which is important or should be important to every professional and amateur chef alike.  Sure, you can buy dry mixes but if you do not have to, then don’t—make it from scratch!

Yield:  4 servings / Mis-en-place: 30-45 minutes / cooking time: 5-6 minutes. 




Qty.
Measure
Item
Other
4
6-7-ounce
Veal cutlets

Seasoned Flour II (Recipe #1592)

Drawn butter

Kosher Salt and Pepper (Recipe #1324)
“KSP”
.25
Teaspoon
Whole oregano

.25
Teaspoon
Freshly minced garlic

.25
Cup
Olive oil

2
Cups
Sliced shitake mushroom caps
Rinsed
1
Cup
Chicken broth
Boiling
1
Cup
Veal broth
Boiling
1
Cup
Gallo Burgundy
Warm
.5
Teaspoon
Kosher salt

.125
Teaspoon
Black pepper

.125
Teaspoon
Whole oregano

.125
Teaspoon
Minced garlic

1.5-2
Cups
Demi-glace Sauce (Recipe #274)

3-4
Cups
Rice du jour

2-3
Cups
Vegetables du jour

4
Each
Parsley sprigs
Rinsed
.125
Cup
Finely minced fresh parsley flakes
Rinsed



Method:

1.      Mis-en-place: have everything ready with which to work! First, make the Kosher-Salt-and-Pepper Seasoning as it is required in different preparations:

(#1324) KOSHER SALT AND PEPPER SEASONING


Every chef has his or her favorite blends of spices and assorted seasonings and this is a simple salt and pepper-PLUS seasoning perfect for all your seasoning needs.  Keep plenty of it on-hand, as it will become indispensable in all your cooking endeavors!

1. Yield: One cup of seasoning:




Qty.
Measure
Item
Other
1
Cup
Kosher salt

1.5
Tablespoon
Coarse black pepper

.5
Teaspoon
Hungarian paprika

.5
Teaspoon
Dry parsley flakes



Method:

2.      Combine and store in an airtight container. You will find many uses for this good basic, salt-and-pepper seasoning so keep plenty of made up ahead of time.

3.      Second, if you don’t have access to Demi-Glace Sauce or to a dry mix if at home, this is the formula for making it:

(#274) PROFESSIONAL DEMI-GLACE SAUCE


Demi-glace is the end game of a long preparation of other basic sauces that eventually coalesce into a refined brown sauce that makes the rest look “blah.”  Nowadays, most kitchens simply do not have the time, the help, or the expertise to make a sauce such as this one completely from scratch so the next best thing to do is to buy a dry mix from a company like Knorr-Suisse.  However, if you are determined to be professional, then this is the place to start. 

Yield:  about one quart / Mis-en-place: 45-60 minutes:




Qty.
Measure
Item
Other
1
Quart
Espagnole Sauce

1
Quart
Superior Veal Stock

.5
Cup
Dry-sack sherry

Cornstarch Slurry

Kosher Salt and Pepper, to taste


Method:

4.      Mis-en-place: have everything ready with which to work! Prepare the Sauce Espagnole four days prior to making this sauce. 

5.      When you make the professional demi-glace, combine the first two ingredients together and reduce by HALF; add the sherry and tighten with cornstarch slurry to medium-thickness and then simmer for 30-40 minutes over a very low flame for flavor to develop.  Season to taste with the kosher-salt-and-pepper seasoning (KSP); then strain the finished sauce.  Keep warm for use during the evening and discard whatever remains at the end of the night, beginning fresh the next day.  This superior sauce has the ability to transform into a variety of different sauces.  The Sauce Espagnole is the base so if you are making a beef dish, use BEEF drippings and if making veal or lamb—use VEAL or LAMB drippings to make the basic sauce. Then, add whatever additions you plan to use for the final sauce.

This is an important sauce used in professional kitchens by cooks and chefs.  Sure, you can buy good Demi-glace made by Knorr-Suisse but to be able to do it by oneself is even better.

Here is the Seasoned Flour formula:

(#1592) SEASONED FLOUR II


            It is always important to have a variety of different methods for imparting additional flavor to our foods and this is one way to do that.  It is especially important during the breading and/or dusting process (es) to be able to instill a tasty sub-flavoring base that will make our ultimate product even more palatable than it might normally be.  The best way to generate repeat business is to have the most delicious foods out there because people do notice these things and sure do tell their friends, family, and co-workers about the quality of your dishes.  Never overlook even the most basic and inexpensive ways to accomplish this very important foodservice task.

1. About 2.5 cups:




Qty.
Measure
Item
Other
2.5
Cups
All-purpose flour

1
Teaspoon
Cayenne pepper

1
Teaspoon
White pepper

1.5
Teaspoons
Hungarian paprika

1.5
Teaspoons
Granulated garlic

1
Tablespoon
Kosher salt

2
Teaspoons
Parsley flakes




Method:

6.      Combine all ingredients together and store in an airtight jar, baggie, or whatever else and either keep at room temperature or in your freezer until needed.

It is important to have a seasoned flour recipe for breading different foods and this is a good one.  You will use this recipe many times. Anyhow, let us to proceed to the final preparation of this classic dish:

7.      Place a large sauté pan atop a medium flame and spray it when PAM or some such other food release spray when it is warm.  Add the drawn butter and allow it to attain a sizzle.  As you are doing this, dust the veal cutlets with seasoned flour on both sides and then shake off the excess.  When the butter’s hot, add the veal and season to taste with the KSP, oregano, and garlic.  Brown the meat on both sides and then remove from the pan.

8.      Wipe the pan clean with a towel; then, return to the flame and add the olive oil.  Heat it up and when it is, add the shitake mushrooms and briefly sauté.  Then, return the veal to the pan and raise the flame. Once the pan’s contents is sizzling, pour in the chicken and veal stocks taking care to stand back so as not to be scalded.

9.      Allow the liquid to reduce in the pan.  This will take some time but that’s okay, we want the meat to be tender when the dish is completed.  Reduce the liquid to almost nothing keeping the flame up and when the pan is almost dry, pour the wine in and again, take care to stand back.  The wine will reduce quickly and once it’s almost to a minimum, pour in the demi-glace and add the seasonings.

10. Lower the heat to a bare minimum and allow the meat to simmer gently in the sauce.  Check it for flavor and readjust the seasonings as you find necessary.  It should be a somewhat herbal-based brown sauce with tender veal and mushrooms floating within it.  When the sauce is medium thickness, the meat is tender, and the dish is flavorful, it’s time to serve.

11. To serve, place one scoop of rice du jour on each of four plates at the six o’clock position.  Then, place a veal portion with plenty of sauce and shitake mushrooms atop the rice.  Place vegetables at the 12 o’clock position and the parsley spring somewhere on the plate.  Sprinkle parsley flakes over the meat and then it’s ready to serve.

12. Leftovers must always be chilled to below 45°F as quickly as possible and then refrigerated.  Many times, we’ve found that it is better for a leftover dish featuring meat in a sauce to separate the two from one another before refrigerating them.  Take the meat from the sauce and place in a sanitized container and label, date, and refrigerate.  Pour the sauce into another container and do the same.  Then when it’s time to reheat and serve, heat the sauce separately by reconstituting it with additional broth and heat the meat in either the oven or the microwave oven.  To complete the dish, combine and serve.
A Busy Night on the Job!
13. Note: By doing it like this, both parts come out better than if; they’re thrown in the oven and heated together: usually, the result is the meat is not as attractive as it was originally and the sauce is overly thick.  If you make it a habit of reconstituting sauce/meat dishes like this, the endgame will be spectacular and no one will know it’s a reheat.

Veal ala Cyrano is one of those myriad European veal dishes and a particular favorite of mine.  It’s sort of like scaloppini but has dissimilarities as well.  Run it, as a special and you’ll find the clientele will enjoy it.
Brussels Sprouts and Carrots: an excellent vegetable to serve with Veau ala Cyrano.
--------------------------------------------

As always, we have a great time around here and that is why we want all of you to become a part of the organization by submitting articles to us for inspection and full-credit.  It is a great thing if you would do this, as it’s a symbiotic relationship: we give you the space to share your recipes and in return, you send us more and more people who will become dedicated followers of the END.  Currently of multi-diversity across the Internet, it is important that the voices of more and more people from all walks of the foodservice profession are heard—join us. We urge our readership to write to us, leave comments, and if there are any of you, who would care to write an article for us, please get in touch via Magnolia Hilltop Brewers, P.O. Box 20669, Bakersfield, CA 93390-0669.  We obviously don’t pay anything but you will be given a full byline and that’s worth its weight in gold.  We want as many people who want to write to be able to do so and we believe that by presenting a forum for our fellow chefs, we are doing something for our beloved industry.  We love diversity and hope to add new and different authors to our pantheon of chefs, food and beverage directors, and culinary professionals.  Come on and join us, it’ll be fun! Expect that when all of us have run through our cycle, we will be introducing some brand-new talent or so I’m told.

Please remember to avoid doing business with AARC Technology in Bakersfield, CA.  These people don’t care about the small customer anymore but instead put all of their attentions onto their corporate customers. It’s sad to not remember why one has the success they do or from where it came.

We’ve made it through our first day together and I am happy to say that I will NOT be the one to forget to mention “Hump Day” on Thursday, my friends.  I have heard about what happened or I should say, “what almost happened” to new blogger, Itzi Nakamura, who almost had to do TWO weeks for her debut because she failed to mention our tradition around here of crowing about how wonderful it is to be in the middle of a seven-day week!  It is our cherished duty to work seven days a row as all chefs do or used to do in the days of true culinary professionalism whereas now, the younger generations are happy with 4-5 days and NO overtime.  To me, that’s tragic because the overtime is what makes us wealthy PLUS the fact that our spouses typically work in the same industry and haul in overtime, too.  But I will ALWAYS mention “Hump Day” so don’t even pick me in the Las Vegas “Hump Day” pool that is currently being set up to pick up the first failure! LOL.                                            

Anyhow, let us close with this impassioned plea—please leave some comments and/or become a follower and why not spend some money and purchase an album by SPIRIT/ Jo Jo Gunne and/or buy a cookbook from Amazon.com—we want to make some money here so help us out by buying something!  We are allied with them and are pleased to market their merchandise! See you next time around! Bye!  

Thank you!

V. Gdansk

V. Gdansk

Cook IV, CWC, ACF, and the Washington State Chef’s Association

This is me back in the 1980's when I was the Executive Chef at a country club in the Napa Valley. I spent many years working in foodservice, having begun as a young boy working for my father in his restaurant over on the coast in Pismo Beach. Foodservice is in my blood and it's something I still do actively every day in my late eighties in Washington State.

Chef Vladimir Gdansk writes from Mukilteo, WA.

---30---

The END Commentary for Monday, June 25, 2012 by Chef Vladimir Gdansk

Please note that everyone who writes for the Elemental News of the Day is their own person entitled to their own opinions, attitudes, and insanity so does not necessarily speak for all of us.  Thanks, Stinkbug.

REFERENCES:

The one-and-only Chef Vladimir Gdansk writes this original essay.



Recipe created by Chef Vladimir Gdansk on June 25, 1985 in Napa, CA.

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The Chef’s Culinary Nightmare: the end is indeed coming soon so beware of BOTH November 06 AND December 21, 2012!

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