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Friday, June 15, 2012

“Famous Restaurant Recipes, Pt. LIII: Veal Morganu—one of the Modern Classics to have come from the 1990’s—tender Veal topped with Marinara and Asiago Cheese Sauces served atop Linguine with Buttered Broccoli and Carrots” by Chef Elvin C. McCardle



Today, we continue offering albums by STEPPENWOLF!   Their TWENTY-THIRD album—“Live in Louisville”—was released in 2004 and was another stellar live album featuring John Kay and his band to date!  As always, among the best rockers to have emanated from the 1960’s, John Kay and Steppenwolf still deliver the goods!  You need to go to Amazon.com and pick it up NOW!  Tomorrow we will offer our last Steppenwolf album and then we will commence promoting another great Los Angeles’ band from the 1960’s—Spirit! Thank you, the Elemental News of the Day.  





COUNTDOWN TO THE END OF THE MAYAN CALENDAR…



Here's the countdown to December 21, 2012: from today, we have 190 days to go until the End of Days, the End of Time, Armageddon, and the End of the Mayan Calendar!  Everybody, beware!



STINKBUG 2012



FATHER’S DAY 2012 WEEK!



Chef Elvin C. McCardle

END Commentary 06-16-2012

Copyright © 2012 by MHB Productions

Word Count: 3,872.



AMERICAN INSTITUTE OF CULINARY POLITICS



ELEMENTALNEWSOFTHEDAY.BLOGSPOT.COM-STINKBUG—THE HEADLINES

Elemental News of the Day Commentary-Opinion-Sports-Foodservice for Saturday, June 16, 2012 by Chef Elvin C. McCardle

FAMOUS RESTAURANT RECIPES, PT. LIII

 Famous Restaurant Recipes, Pt. LIII: Veal Morganu—one of the Modern Classics to have come from the 1990’s—tender Veal topped with Marinara and Asiago Cheese Sauces served atop Linguine with Buttered Broccoli and Carrots” by Chef Elvin C. McCardle

Auguste Escoffier: Master Chef, 1846-1935, the “King of Chefs and Chef of Kings.”

Bakersfield, CA, 06-16-2012 S: Here it is, Saturday, one more day to go and also notable is the fact that today, we are at 190 days to go until the Mayan Calendar comes to a stunning if unimportant conclusion on December 21, 2012.  Still, people like Stinkbug are fascinated by this long-running process of speculation and puzzlement, of people questioning all that there is in life, and of the History Channel and others like it beating the drum on the topic, trying to drive people mad over what could happen!

Therefore, I have to put all of our minds at ease by preparing a great dish today, Veal Morganu, named after a great Chef, Morgan, of unknown fame and fortune.  It’s a wonderful dish, it features tender veal medallions pounded gently and seasoned to taste and then rissole in a skillet until juicy and succulent.  It’s then topped by a combination of Marinara and Asiago Cheese Sauces, more cheese and then served atop delicious linguine pasta with buttered carrots and broccoli.  We will teach you how to do everything step-by-intriguing step! It is our passion and we know that it’s also yours and that is why you join us each and every day!  We want to give a shout out to Jim and Mary Brown, dedicated readers from Bakersfield, CA! Thanks for being with us!

(#1631) VEAL MORGANU



Veal Morganu is one of the more exciting dishes I’ve seen in recent times making use of a much-under-utilized meat nowadays—veal.  I always found veal to be extremely delicious and this is an amazingly tasty and beautiful presentation, country club-cooking and hotel cuisine at its best.  Yes, it takes some time but then all good dishes do so jump in, get your feet and fingers wet and knock it out!

Yield:  4 servings / Mis-en-place: 1.5 hours / Cooking Time: 8-10 minutes.  



Qty.
Measure
Item
Other
4
6-7-ounce
Veal cutlets, lightly pounded

Seasoned Flour II (Recipe #1592)

Kosher Salt and Pepper (Recipe #1324)

.5
Cup
Drawn butter

.125
Cup
Minced yellow onions

.25
Teaspoon
Minced fresh garlic

2
Cups
Marinara Sauce (Recipe #290)

2
Cups
Asiago Cream Sauce (Recipe #419-B)

.5
Cup
Shredded fresh asiago cheese

.5
Cup
Shredded fresh parmesan cheese

.125
Cup
Freshly minced parsley flakes
Rinsed
Spanish paprika

1
#
Linguine, cooked (Recipe #1055)

3
Cups
Cooked carrots (Recipe #1630)

3
Cups
Cooked broccoli (Recipe #1622)

.25
Cup
Melted butter

1.5
Teaspoons
Lawrey’s Seasoned Salt

.125
Teaspoon
Lawrey’s Seasoned Pepper

.5
Teaspoon
Freshly minced garlic

4
Each
Parsley sprigs
Rinsed
Broken Glass Garnish (Recipe #1305)
Optional



Method:

1.      Mis-en-place: have everything ready with which to work! First, we’ll make the Marinara Sauce: the recipe is for ONE quart; while it’s more than is needed, it never hurts to have leftover marinara sauce or if you wish, you can divide it in “two.”

(#290) BASIC MARINARA SAUCE—ONE QUART


Everybody needs to have a good marinara sauce recipe and this one fits the bill.  It enables you to prepare a sufficient quantity to have on hand in your home if you are a lover of pasta or of the classic dishes. There are so many things that require marinara that it’s important to have a recipe such as this locked away in your recipe box.  I’ve had this one perfected since my days at the Stockdale Country Club in the 1980’s.

1. Yield: about 1 quart / Mis-en-place: about 45-60 minutes:




Qty.
Measure
Item
Other
1
14-oz can
Diced tomatoes

1
15-oz can
Tomato sauce

1
14-oz can
Whole tomatoes, pureed in blender

1.5
Teaspoons
Chicken base

.5
Teaspoon
Kosher salt

.0125
Teaspoon
Black pepper

3
Ounces
Tomato paste

1.5
Teaspoons
Olive oil

.5
Cup
Diced yellow onions

.25
Cup
Diced carrots

.5
Cup
Diced celery

.5
Teaspoon
Minced garlic

1
Each
Bay leaf

.5
Teaspoon
Hungarian paprika

.5
Cup
Burgundy wine

1.5
Teaspoons
Worcestershire sauce

1.5
Teaspoons
Freshly minced parsley




Method:

2.      Set up a bain-marie using the lower half of a roasting pan for the base and the mixing bowl as the top half.  Fill the base with water and fire it up.

3.      Make a stock with yellow onions and scallions, carrot peels, and celery scraps.  Add a few whole cloves and a few bay leaves.  Stock this out over low heat.

4.      Next, spray the mixing bowl with PAM or some such other food release spray and add the (a) diced tomatoes; (b) tomato sauce; (c) pureed tomatoes; and (d) chicken base. 

5.      Next, add the following: (e) kosher salt; and (f) black pepper.  Reduce this mixture by ONE inch and then stir in (g) tomato paste. Blend together until well blended.

6.      Meanwhile, in a second pot combine the following: (h) olive oil; (i) diced yellow onions; (j) diced carrots; (k) diced celery; (l) minced garlic; (m) bay leaves; and (n) Hungarian paprika. Move the heat to HIGH and braise, stirring constantly.  Then, stir in ONE QUART of the tomato sauce from the bain-marie.

7.      Maintain a boil for 1-2 minutes and then reduce the heat to LOW.  Turn off heat after 10 minutes; remove, then, from the heat and blend in the following: (o) burgundy wine and (p) Worcestershire sauce. If it’s super thick, stir in some of the stock, you’ve made or cool the stock and save it for use in something else.

8.      Remove from the flame completely and cool.  When it is cool, blend in the following: (q) freshly minced parsley.  Cover with a piece of wax paper sprayed with PAM or some such other food release spray, sprayed-side down to prevent a top from forming and refrigerate. 

9.      When completely cooled, bag baggies or fill Styrofoam containers with sauce and either refrigerate or freeze for use at a later time.

This is a great basic tomato sauce that can be used as a basis for not only marinara sauces but also spaghetti or whatever you might, need a tomato sauce for. The next sauce to be made is the Asiago Cheese Sauce:

(#419-b) SOUR CREAM ASIAGO CHEESE SAUCE



Asiago cheese became the “cheese of the day” in the late 1990’s-early 2000’s as virtually every chef suddenly discovered this pungent cheese and incorporated it into virtually everything.  While not among my most favorite cheeses, this is an excellent cheese sauce and one that everyone likes.  Keep it handy for whatever recipe you have that calls for it and always use the freshest cheese available.

Yield: about one quart of sauce / Mis-en-place: about 30 minutes:




Qty.
Measure
Item
Other
1
Quart 
Superior chicken stock

3
Cups
Whole milk

1
Cup
Sour cream

.25
Cup
Melted butter

3/8
Cup
All-purpose flour

2
Teaspoons
Kosher salt

1
Teaspoon
White pepper

2
Cups
Grated Asiago Cheese




Method:

10. Have stock, milk, and sour cream on the stove in a heavy-bottomed saucepot at a high simmer. Reduce by half.

11. Combine remaining ingredients in bowl of an electric mixer. Mix until well blended. Pour then into a 1-gallon saucepot and place over low flame.

12. Cook this roux slowly until it begins to tan. Then, gradually begin whisking in the combined liquids a pint or two at a time so that the roux can absorb it without getting lumps.

13.  As you do this, turn the heat up almost all the way as you continue to add the remaining stock. At first, it should appear to be thin which is okay—it’ll thicken but as for now, make sure that there are no lumps.

14.  Allow sauce to simmer after reducing heat to low, which will gradually thicken it more. If not thick enough for your needs, make slurry of flour and oil and whisk it in or use your lie. Add the Asiago cheese and allow it be incorporated.  When thick enough, let it cook just a little bit longer in order to incorporate the final additions. Check also for taste and modify as needed.

This is the classic white sour cream sauce made with stock, milk, and sour cream, which does two things: it keeps it from scorching during the cooking process due to the presence of the stock and adds additional flavor because of it. This is a standard sauce that one needs in their repertoire of sauces and when flavored with the addition of freshly grated asiago cheese becomes an excellent topping for everything from seafood to chicken!

Here’s the Seasoned Flour II recipe:

(#1592) SEASONED FLOUR II




1. About 2.5 cups:



Qty.
Measure
Item
Other
2.5
Cups
All-purpose flour

1
Teaspoon
Cayenne pepper

1
Teaspoon
White pepper

1.5
Teaspoons
Hungarian paprika

1.5
Teaspoons
Granulated garlic

1
Tablespoon
Kosher salt

2
Teaspoons
Parsley flakes




Method:

15. Combine all ingredients together and store in an airtight jar, baggie, or whatever else and either keep at room temperature or in your freezer until needed.

It’s important to have a seasoned flour recipe for breading different foods and this is a good one.  You will use this recipe many times. Finally, here’s the Kosher Salt and Pepper formula:

(#1324) KOSHER SALT AND PEPPER SEASONING




1. Yield: One cup of seasoning:




Qty.
Measure
Item
Other
1
Cup
Kosher salt

1.5
Tablespoon
Coarse black pepper

.5
Teaspoon
Hungarian paprika

.5
Teaspoon
Dry parsley flakes




Method:

16. Combine together and store in an airtight container.

This is a good basic, salt-and-pepper seasoning that you will find many uses for.  Here’s the Dry Pasta Cooking Procedure:

(#1055) DRY PASTA COOKING PROCEDURES  



Yield:  for ONE pound / Mis-en-place: 20 minutes:



Qty.
Measure
Item
Other
2
Quarts
Boiling water

1
Tablespoon
Kosher salt

.5
#
Barilla-brand linguine pasta

1.5
Teaspoons
Olive oil

For Seasoning Pasta AFTER Blanching:
1
Tablespoon
Olive oil

.5
Teaspoon
Kosher salt

.25
Teaspoon
Black pepper

.25
Teaspoon
Granulated garlic




Method:

17. Mis-en-place: have everything ready with which to work!

18. Bring water to a boil and add salt and oil.

19. Add the pasta and boil for 6-8 minutes or until it’s JUST past the “crisp” stage; DON’T overcook!

20. Immediately drain well and place on a sheet tray in one layer to cool.  Don’t rinse it!

21. Drizzle with the remaining olive oil and season with the spices.  Toss gently by hand, being careful to NOT tear or break the pasta, until coated with the olive oil. 

22. When thoroughly cooled, cover and store in a sanitized, airtight container in the refrigerator until called for.

This is a never-fail formula for creating perfect pasta from dry. Here’s how to prepare the best broccoli possible:

(#1622) HOW TO PREPARE BROCCOLI



Vegetable preparation has become very important nowadays as only low-class chain restaurants and independents use canned or frozen vegetables.  Broccoli is a frequently used veggie and appears on many menus as either a standard item or as a special.  It is also used in the preparation of classical dishes that feature it as one of the components such as Broccoli Normande.  It is important that it be handled correctly so that it looks its best and retains its vitamins.

Yield:  4-8 orders depending upon size  / Mis-en-place: 3-4 minutes:





Qty.
Measure
Item
Other
2
Each
Broccoli crowns

2
Teaspoons
Salt

2
Quarts
Boiling water

.5
Each
Lemon

Ice water


Method:

23. Mis-en-place: have everything ready with which to work!  Nowadays, broccoli is sold in crowns or stalks.  Crowns cost a bit more because the stalks are a waste to many but if one is farsighted and knows what can be done with the entire stalk, then it’s better to buy stalks.  The stalks can be “skinned” and used in either cream soups or in Asian veggie dishes such as Broccoli Stemyaki, a dish created specifically to utilize the stalks.   Always be sure to trim the base(s) prior to use and then break down the stalks into individual florets.  Always store the raw vegetable in a bucket of ice water with a lemon to help it maintain its freshness and to keep it crisp.

24. To cook the broccoli, have either a steamer or pot of boiling water on the stove.  Be sure to add salt to the water of either one: yes, put salt in the water of the steamer.  The purpose of the salt is to keep the color of the vegetable a brilliant hue of green, even better than its raw form so don’t worry about salting the cooking liquid.

25. Drop a lemon into the water and then drop the raw broccoli into it or into the steamer basket.  Cook for no more than 60-80 seconds at most; then, immediately drain it or remove it from the steamer and plunge it into a bowl of ice water to retard further cooking and to maintain the dazzling color.  When thoroughly chilled, remove it from the water and place it into a salad spinner and remove any excess water. 

26. Keep stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator.  When needed, add it directly to a hot sauté pan with either oil or butter or heat it in a microwave oven and then add it to a sauce or soup.  Always take care to NEVER overcook it. 

27. Cooked broccoli will keep for 2-3 days.  Always store with a cut lemon to keep the air aromatic and fresh and to remove the pungent odor that attaches to it. Raw broccoli will remain fresh for a week in cold ice water but cook it as soon as possible.

Broccoli is one of the all-time most favored vegetables and is reasonably priced.  Easy to handle, a pleasure to eat, it’s perfect as long as it’s handled correctly and prepared properly.  Here’s the method for making the perfect carrots:

(#1630) HOW TO PREPARE CARROTS



As with any vegetable, it’s important that they be prepared properly lest they lose all allure and vitamin content.  Always make your best effort in everything you cook and you will have more success than you ever could imagine.  People judge the chef on virtually everything he or she does and if not done properly, it can cause rejection, which is never good for any cook or chef, whether they be home or professional.

Yield:  4-6 servings / Mis-en-place: variable. 



Qty.
Measure
Item
Other
2
Each
Large carrots, peeled and cut to whatever shape is desired
Water for steaming or boiling

1
Teaspoon
Kosher salt

Ice water



Method:

28. Mis-en-place: have everything ready with which to work!

29. Have the water boiling in either a pot or in the bottom of a steamer and add to either one the salt. 

30. Cooking carrots depends on the way they’re cut: if you cut matchsticks or very thin slices, they’ll cook in one, possibly two minutes at the most to be al dente-tender.  If you cut them into rounds or thicker slices, allow 3-4 minutes.  If the carrots are extremely old and have a thick core, they’ll take even longer.  The idea is to be extremely watchful and to check them every so often as they will cook FAST once they begin to cook. 

31. As soon as you detect they’re done which means with a bit of “crispness” about them and NOT a mushy feeling, drain them or pull them out of the steamer and plunge them into a bowl of ice water.  Keep there just until cold and then drain them and dry them in a salad spinner if you have one so the residual liquid won’t disturb the butter seasoning.

32. Cooked carrots can be kept in the refrigerator for a day or two but should be consumed as soon as possible.

Carrots are a mainstay of any kitchen and must be prepared properly in order to make them palatable to the diner.

Master Preparation:

33. Lightly masticate the veal cutlets and then dust with seasoned flour; shake off the excess and set aside.  Allow all meats to sit out for 10-15 minutes—covered of course!—in order to shake off the chill of the refrigerator.  Preheat standard oven to 400°F or a convection oven—fan “on”—to 350°F.

34. Place a large sauté pan or skillet over a medium flame.  Have the drawn butter ready: always melt it slowly and then draw off and discard the scum that rises to the surface.  Next, draw off the clear liquid saving it of course and when you arrive at the watery whey and residual liquid, STOP drawing and discard what’s left.  Keep the drawn butter warm but NOT hot!

35. When the pan’s heated up, add the butter to it and let it come to a sizzle.  Add the onions and garlic and then add the veal.  Season to taste with KSP and cook the veal until it’s done—a matter of minutes.  Have the pasta ready to go and the vegetables.  Transfer the veal to a sheet pan or a baking dish sprayed with PAM or with some such other food release spray.  Ladle marinara sauce on one-half of each veal cutlet and asiago cheese sauce on the other.  Place inside the oven and heat it till it’s bubbly.

36.  When it is, pull the pan out and top each sauced veal cutlet with some of the freshly grated parmesan and asiago cheeses and then dust each one with parsley flakes and a few shakes of paprika—return to the oven until the cheeses have melted.  Meanwhile, combine the final measure of melted butter with the Lawrey’s seasoned salt, pepper, and minced garlic to flavor it.

37. Place the cooked linguine on each of four plates and sauce it with a combination of the leftover marinara and asiago cheese sauces.  Top each one with a veal cutlet from out of the oven.  Place the cooked carrots in one bowl and the cooked broccoli in another and divide the flavored butter between them and toss each; then, place the carrots at 10 o’clock and the broccoli at 2 o’clock and a parsley spring in the center.  If desired and if you REALLY want to make a plate presentation, garnish the rims of each plate with the following garnish:

(#1305) BROKEN GLASS GARNISH


This is a simple yet effective garnish that can be made from scrap vegetables, bits and pieces and then sprinkled around the rims of entrée plates for great effect. It is beautiful, highlights the food, and gives the diner something gorgeous to comprehend before he or she takes his or her first bite.  This may not be used on everything, just the most important menu items so as to NOT overkill its effectiveness.

Yield: about 1 cup / Mis-en-place: about 20 minutes:




Qty.
Measure
Item
Other
.25
Cup
3/16” square-cut carrots
Rinsed
.25
Cup
3/16” square-cut red cabbage
Rinsed
.25
Cup
3/16” square celery
Rinsed
.25
Cup
3/16” square cut red bell pepper
Rinsed


Method:

38. Rinse cabbage well, and then toss all ingreds together. Let them dry a little bit at room temp then keep on the cold line. I will tell you when to utilize this garnish, which is a very attractive one; it reminds me of the stars in the heavens.

This is a very important garnish that you will use on all sorts of things so keep it available at all times.

39. The Veal Morganu is now ready to serve so take it out to the diners and watch the delight on their faces as its set before each of them—they’ll be amazed!

Veal Morganu is one of the more recent recipes I’ve seen created by modern chefs and it’s a delicious dish to be sure.  Veal has slowly become out of favor, which is tragic as it is one of the finer, more-refined meats but it’s understandable that the public in general is not enamored of how it’s prepared and of what it is.  Still, for those who love Continental-style cuisine, this is one that simply cannot be beat nor overlooked!

--------------------------------------------

As always, we have a great time around here and that is why we want all of you to become a part of the organization by submitting articles to us for inspection and full-credit.  It is a great thing if you would do this as it’s a symbiotic relationship: we give you the space to share your recipes and in return, you send us more and more people who will hopefully become dedicated followers of the END.  In this day and age of multi-diversity across the Internet, it is important that the voices of more and more people from all walks of the foodservice profession are heard—join us. We urge our readership to write to us and leave comments and if there are any of you, who would care to write an article for us, please get in touch via Magnolia Hilltop Brewers, P.O. Box 20669, Bakersfield, CA 93390-0669.  We obviously don’t pay anything but you will be given a full byline and that’s worth its weight in gold.  We want as many people who want to write to be able to do so and we believe that by presenting a forum for our fellow chefs, we are doing something for our beloved industry.  We love diversity and hope to add new and different authors to our pantheon of chefs, food and beverage directors, and culinary professionals.  Come on and join us, it’ll be fun! Expect that when all of us have run through our cycle, we will be introducing some brand-new talent or so I’m told.

Please remember to avoid doing business with AARC Technology in Bakersfield, CA.  These people don’t care about the small customer anymore but instead put all of their attentions onto their corporate customers. It’s sad to not remember why one has the success they do or from where it came.

Tomorrow is it for me and also for STEPPENWOLF! It’s not often that the Amazon.com discography concludes on a Sunday when an author is also concluding for a particular week so bravo to me!  On Monday, we will begin to promote albums by one of the all-time great rock-and-roll bands of the 1960’s who went for several decades until the tragic death of their leader—Randy California—brought the band to its final end: SPIRIT.  Spirit was one of the best psychedelic bands from which the stellar Jay Ferguson also erupted and who went on to first form Jo-Jo Gunne and then onto a solo career and who became very famous for both.  We love Spirit and believe that you will, too, and it’s our duty—no, it’s our obsession!—to continue promoting nothing but the best from the greatest period in music—the swinging 1960’s—and the veterans who have continued more or less on till this day felled only by the death of their most-important members.  So, please be here on Monday as we commence selling Spirit albums and please, by all means, buy some of them!                                    

Anyhow, let us close with this impassioned plea—please leave some comments and/or become a follower and why not spend some money and purchase an album by STEPPENWOLF and/or buy a cookbook from Amazon.com—we want to make some money here so help us out by buying something!  We are allied with them and are pleased to market their merchandise! See you next time around! Bye!  

Thank you!

Elvin C. McCardle

Elvin C. McCardle

American Culinary Federation, Inc., CWC

_____________________________________________________________________
This is a shot of me as a young chef back in the 1970's when I was working as a sous chef at a resort hotel over on the coast around Ventura Beach, California. I began my career working as a busboy in 1963, move to washing pots in 1965, became a chef's apprentice in 1969 and have been a career professional ever since. I am still involved in professional foodservice as a consultant for food and beverage professionals.

Chef Elvin C. McCardle writes from Ventura, CA.
---30---

The END Commentary for Saturday, June 16, 2012 by Chef Elvin C. McCardle

Please note that everyone who writes for the Elemental News of the Day is their own person entitled to their own opinions, attitudes, and insanity so does not necessarily speak for all of us.  Thanks, Stinkbug.

REFERENCES:

This original essay was written by the one-and-only Chef Elvin C. McCardle



Recipe created by Chef Elvin C. McCardle on August 23, 1998 in Ventura Beach, CA.

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