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Friday, April 20, 2012

“Famous Restaurant Recipes, Pt. XLVI: ‘Filets of English Sole Bonne Femme—a Classic Creation by the Great French Chef Auguste Escoffier” by Chef El Chilote



Today, we continue offering albums by one of the all-time great San Francisco bands that had so much promise but then basically fell apart due to the usual reasons: MOBY GRAPE!  Their THIRTEENTH album—“Listen my Friends: the Best of Moby Grape”—was released in 2007 and was an excellent compilation of this underdog San Francisco psychedelic band, well-worth buying. By all means, please go to Amazon.com where you’ll definitely want to buy it NOW!  Thank you, the Elemental News of the Day.





COUNTDOWN TO THE END OF THE MAYAN CALENDAR…

                                                                               

Here's the countdown to December 21, 2012: from today, we have 246 days to go until the End of Days, the End of Time, Armageddon, and the End of the Mayan Calendar!  Everybody, beware!




                                                                                         


STINKBUG 2012

                                                                                  



Chef El Chilote

END Commentary 04-21-2012

Copyright © 2012 by MHB Productions

Word Count: 2,369.



CULINARY POLITICS



ELEMENTALNEWSOFTHEDAY.BLOGSPOT.COM-STINKBUG—THE HEADLINES

Elemental News of the Day Commentary-Opinion-Sports-Foodservice for Saturday, April 21, 2012 by Chef El Chilote

FAMOUS RESTAURANT RECIPES, PT. XLVI

 Famous Restaurant Recipes, Pt. XLVI: ‘Filets of English Sole Bonne Femme—a Classic Creation by the Great French Chef Auguste Escoffier” by Chef El Chilote



Bakersfield, CA, 04-21-2012 S: One of the great pleasures about being a member of the Elemental News of the Day is the fact that we are able to delve into and present the great recipes of classical cooking, i.e., French, Austro-Hungarian, and a wide variety of other European cuisines.  Whenever we get to work on Auguste Escoffier’s recipes, the great French Chef who was alive from 1846-1935, we are excited because he’s the one who set the bar for all modern-day chefs, even the ones who proclaim they’re no longer interested in his style of cuisine.  Like it or not, we are all a part of the French school of thought, training, and expertise because even the critics use his ideas but transform them into whatever style or point they’re trying to get across.  You can run but you can’t hide from the father of modern cooking thought and I’m glad because I totally adhere to his teachings!

Our dish for today is another fish dish—NO SURPRISE!—and it’s one of the best dishes I ever learned working in country clubs.  It uses tender English sole filets, a delicate fish that benefits from this sort of cookery because it will be covered in a white wine sauce with bay shrimp on top, scampi-style, and then presented in a casserole boat which makes it mouth-wateringly good!  I always love this sort of presentation and suggest that everyone rush down to their local restaurant supply store and snap up 8-12 boats because once you begin using them, you’ll want to use them all the time.  Trust me on this—I know what happens—and if ever one needed a reason to visit the local hotel and restaurant supply store in their town or city, this is the perfect excuse! Let’s do it:

(#1224) FRESH FILETS OF SOLE BONNE FEMME





Yield:  4-8 portions  / Mis-en-place: 2 + hours:




Qty.
Measure
Item
Other
White Wine Sauce:
3/8
Cup
Melted butter

3/8
Cup
All-purpose flour

2
Cups
Fish Stock (Recipe #217)

2.5
Cups
Heavy cream

.5
Cup
Chardonnay

1
Teaspoon
Kosher salt

.5
Teaspoon
White pepper

.5
Teaspoon
Ground nutmeg

1.25
Cups
Sliced mushrooms
Blanched
The Bay Shrimp:
.25
Cup
Melted butter

.5
Cup
Sliced mushrooms

.25
Cup
Chopped chives

2
Teaspoons
Minced fresh garlic

2
Teaspoons
Kosher salt

.5
Teaspoon
White pepper

1.5
Cups
Fresh bay shrimp

.5
Teaspoon
Hungarian paprika

.125
Cup
Chardonnay

The English Sole:
8-16
3-ounce
Filets fresh English sole

3
Cups
All-purpose flour

8
Each
Large AAA eggs, beaten

1-1/3
Tablespoon
Cold water

2
Cups
Melted butter

1
Teaspoon
Kosher salt

.5
Teaspoon
White pepper

.5
Teaspoon
Minced fresh garlic

1
Tablespoon
Lemon juice

.125
Cup
Chardonnay

1-1/3
Tablespoons
Freshly minced parsley flakes
Rinsed
Hungarian paprika

The Finish:
4-8
Each
Lemon crowns

Parsley flakes

Hungarian paprika

4-8
Each
Large sprigs fresh parsley
Rinsed
1-2
Cups
Broken Glass Garnish (Recipe #1305)




Method:

1.      Mis-en-place: have everything ready with which to work!

Here’s the Fish Stock formula:

(#217) FISH STOCK





Yield:  about one quart / Mis-en-place: 1-1.5 hours:




Qty.
Measure
Item
Other
2
#
Fish trim, skeletons, heads, tails, etc

2
Quarts
Water

2
Quarts
Chardonnay 

1
Cup
Carrot trimmings

1
Cup
Chopped white onions

2
Cups
Chopped celery, leaves, roots, etc.
Rinsed
1.5
Teaspoons
Dried thyme

3
Each
Bay leaves

1
Bunch
Parsley

1
Teaspoon
White peppercorns

1
Tablespoon
Better-than-Bouillon fish or clam base

1
Each
Lemon, halved




Method:

2.      Mis-en-place: have everything ready with which to work! Combine all ingredients in a saucepot and place over a medium-high flame.  Bring to a simmer but DON’T boil.  Reduce the heat to low and allow it to reduce for an hour or so until you have approximately ONE quart of liquid; then, strain out the debris through the use of a double-Chinois lined with a clean towel and then pour through the washed and rinsed chinois lined with cheesecloth into a sanitized pan or hotel pan. 

3.      Place atop a cooling rack and allow an oscillating fan to blow across its surface to hasten the cooling process.  Reduce the heat to below 45°F as quickly as possible and then transfer to a sanitized storage container to finish cooling it in your refrigerator.  Transfer it into individual Styrofoam storage containers equipped with tight-fitting lids and then label the contents and date it for when it was made.  You can freeze this for use at a later time or use it now. Don’t refrigerate for longer than a day or two in your fridge; otherwise, you will have to toss it out.

4.      Note: should you care to make it into fish fume, prepare a floating island out of egg whites and allow it to circle about the top of the heated liquid on the stove in a saucepot.  The purpose of this classic French trick is for the meringue-like egg whites to collect each and every one of the impurities that lurk within the stock.  Never dispense with this critical step! Always strive for perfection!

Fish stocks are important if one works in a foodservice business in which large amounts of fresh fish are prepared weekly and if they make clam chowder, then it’s essential to be able to make fish stock out of the scraps and trim.  Never toss anything out; always utilize everything to its fullest potential.

The Directions:

5.      After preparing the fish stock proceed to making the White Wine Sauce first by combining the butter and flour together in a saucepot—don’t place over flame yet. 

6.      In another saucepot sprayed with PAM or with some such other food release spray, combine the fish stock with the cream, the salt, pepper, nutmeg, and mushrooms.  Place the pot over a medium flame and bring to a high simmer.  Heat the roux in the first pot, stirring almost constantly, until it has swelled and is an off-white in color; then, bring the second pot to a boil and whisk it into the first pot to form the sauce.

7.      Continue whisking as the sauce comes to a boil and when it has, allow it to remain there for 1-2 minutes, whisking almost constantly and then drop the flame to low and allow it to perk along until needed.

8.      Bay Shrimp: the bay shrimp will be used as a topping so have a large skillet placed over a medium flame and when it’s warm, add the butter and heat it to a sizzle.  Add the next SEVEN ingredients, stopping at the wine, and sauté quickly over a medium flame until the shrimp are cooked and the liquid has begun to reduce.  Then, pour in the wine, allow it to flare up, and then remove the skillet from high flame.  Keep the shrimp warm until called for.

9.      The Sole:  dust the filets of sole of in the all-purpose flour and shake off the excess.  Combine the eggs with the water in the bowl of an electric mixer equipped with a whip attachment and blend together at medium-high speed; then, pour the mixture through a fine-meshed sieve into a large bowl.  Add the salt, pepper, garlic, and lemon juice and blend well.  Place the flour-dusted filets into the eggwash and allow them to soak for several minutes; meanwhile, heat a couple of large skillets over a medium flame. Preheat your standard oven to 400°F or your convection oven—fan in the “on” position—to 350°F.

10.  Heat some of the melted butter in the skillets reserving about a cup of it should you need to add more.  When it’s hot, begin placing egg-dipped sole filets into the hot fat and cook quickly on both sides, turning over only ONCE.  When each is done, remove it from the skillet and transfer them to individual casserole dishes known as BOATS that have been sprayed with PAM or with some such other alternative.  Be sure to place two filets per boat and as you do so, add more of the reserved butter to the skillets for the next batch. 

11. When all of the sole filets have been cooked on the flattop griddle or in the skillets, proceed to the next step: ladle white wine sauce over each casserole boat covering the fish portions.  Then, top them with equal amounts of sautéed bay shrimp followed by freshly minced parsley flakes and then a light dusting of the Hungarian paprika.  Place all of the casserole boats into your preheated oven and bake for 4-8 minutes until they have a slight glazed appearance.  Remove from the oven then and transfer to individual presentation platters placing each one at the six o’clock position. 

12. Complete the dish by placing a starch such as rice pilaf at the 2 o’clock position and vegetables du jour at the 10 o’clock position.  Place a lemon crown dusted with both freshly minced parsley flakes and paprika smack dab in the middle.  Place a sprig of fresh parsley somewhere on the plate and finally, a dusting of the Broken Glass Garnish around the perimeters of each plate.  Then, it’s time to serve your beautiful fish!

Here’s the Broken Glass Garnish recipe:

(#1305) BROKEN GLASS GARNISH





Yield: about 1 cup / Mis-en-place: about 20 minutes:




Qty.
Measure
Item
Other
.25
Cup
3/16” square-cut carrots
Rinsed
.25
Cup
3/16” square-cut red cabbage
Rinsed
.25
Cup
3/16” square celery
Rinsed
.25
Cup
3/16” square cut red bell pepper
Rinsed



Method:

1.      Rinse cabbage well, and then toss all ingreds together. Let them dry a little bit at room temp then keep on the cold line. I will tell you when to utilize this garnish which is a very attractive one; it reminds me of the stars in the heavens.

This is a very important garnish that you will use on all sorts of things so keep it available at all times.

This is one of the most beautiful fish preparations I’ve ever had the pleasure of preparing, a classic from the Escoffier era when the great French chef was at the height of his prowess.  I first learned it working in a top-notch country club and am glad I did because I’ve taken it with me every place I’ve ever worked. Once you’ve had the pleasure of making and of tasting it, you will be a convert for a life!

---------------------------------------------

As always, we have a great time around here and that is why we want all of you to become a part of the organization by submitting articles to us for inspection and full-credit.  It is a great thing if you would do this as it’s a symbiotic relationship: we give you the space to share your recipes and in return, you send us more and more people who will hopefully become dedicated followers of the END.  In this day and age of multi-diversity across the Internet, it is important that the voices of more and more people from all walks of the foodservice profession are heard—join us. We urge our readership to write to us and leave comments and if there are any of you, who would care to write an article for us, please get in touch via Magnolia Hilltop Brewers, P.O. Box 20669, Bakersfield, CA 93390-0669.  We obviously don’t pay anything but you will be given a full byline and that’s worth its weight in gold.  We want as many people who want to write to be able to do so and we believe that by presenting a forum for our fellow chefs, we are doing something for our beloved industry.  We love diversity and hope to add new and different authors to our pantheon of chefs, food and beverage directors, and culinary professionals.  Come on and join us, it’ll be fun! Expect that when all of us have run through our cycle, we will be introducing some brand-new talent or so I’m told.

Please remember to avoid doing business with AARC Technology in Bakersfield, CA.  These people don’t care about the small customer anymore but instead put all of their attentions onto their corporate customers. It’s sad to not remember why one has the success they do or from where it came.

So, one more day to go and then I will be on my way out of here to do new and exciting things.  Yes, I know we’re on the final countdown to the so-called “End Times,” and that’s swell, if you believe that sort of thing. It’s hard for me to imagine that something monumental could happen that would bring an end to our world and to everyone and everything living upon it.  Yet, that’s precisely what my ancestors believed to be the case, being related to the Mesoamerican peoples of antiquity, I have high respect and regard for their way of life and for what they believed.  In the end, none of will know until December 22, 2012 has come and nothing much transpired during the preceding 24 hours.     

 The day after tomorrow, my good friend, Chef Kilgore Randalini, will be coming in to sit in the Stinkbug chair and who knows what he will draw from the hat?  We will be doing the Mother’s Day menu the week prior to the big day as Stinkbug promised, no more messing up and doing things  The special will begin on Monday 04-30-2011 and will run through 05-06-2011 which will be the week prior to the big celebration!  Doing it this way will put us back on our original course of doing holidays at least a week in advance instead of finishing on the day itself which in my estimation is a bit tacky—way to go, Stinky!  So, plan on being here a week from tomorrow for the commencement of our menu! I believe that Tiresias will be the one in charge for that holiday.

 Anyhow, let us close with this impassioned plea—please leave some comments and/or become a follower and why not spend some money and purchase an album by MOBY GRAPE and/or buy a cookbook from Amazon.com—we want to make some money here so help us out by buying something!  We are allied with them and are pleased to market their merchandise! See you next time around! Bye!  

Muchas gracias, buen amigos!

El Chilote

Santanamos “El Chilote” De Soto

CWC, ACF, Maui Chefs’ Society, Washington State Chefs’ Association.

__________________________________________________________________

This is a shot of me taken when I was a young cook back in the early 1960's. I served underneath a Master Chef for many years before striking out on my own. I went up the coast of the Western United States and Canada, working all the way until I made it to Alaska. From there, I moved to Hawaii for a couple of years (1994-1997) before I returned to Washington State in 1998 and it was there that I met Stinkbug.

---30---

The END Commentary for Saturday, April 21, 2012 by Chef El Chilote



Please note that everyone who writes for the Elemental News of the Day is their own person entitled to their own opinions, attitudes, and insanity so does not necessarily speak for all of us.  Thanks, Stinkbug.

REFERENCES:

This original essay was written by the one-and-only Chef El Chilote

.



Recipe created by Chef El Chilote on April 10, 1982 in San Francisco, CA.

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STINKBUG AT THE COUNTDOWN TO THE END DAYS

                                                                                
                                                              
                                                                               
This is #1124 an 11” x 14" original oil painting by Beverly Carrick entitled, “Brian’s Birds.’" It's among her more beautiful works and is available for sale. You can see much more of her work at her Website, located at http://www.beverlycarrick.com or at Brian Carrick's Facebook page. At her Website, you will see not only more original oil paintings but also lithographs, giclees, prints, miniatures, photographs, and even her award-winning instructional video entitled, "Painting the Southwest with Beverly Carrick." Beverly has been painting for more than 60 years and is known around the world. Her work hangs in private and public galleries and is followed by a great many fans that circle the globe. We urge you to go to her Website NOW and view her work. It's possible that you will find something you like and will want to buy it for yourself, a friend, a loved one, or a neighbor! You will not be disappointed so please: do yourself a favor and go there IMMEDIATELY! Thank you, the Elemental News of the Day!

Birds
                                                                       


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