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Thursday, March 8, 2012

“Sandwich Seminar, Pt. XIV: ‘B. C.’s Reuben Sandwich—the Best Delicatessen Sandwich ever with Hints on how to cook the Perfect Corned Beef Brisket,’ by Chef B. H. “BC” Cznystekinki”



As with the past twelve days, we’ve been presenting the Doors to you for your listening enjoyment and now that we’ve completed their official albums, we enter the realm of the long-lost live treasure trove of albums that was always said not to exist when suddenly, they started coming out!  Their NINETEENTH album—“Essential Rarities”—was released in 1999 and was another successful compilation album of unheard or rare cuts that hit Certified Gold Status like many of the others! That tells you how good it is so by all means, go out there and BUY it! [Unfortunately, the link may no longer be possible due to the fact that the Amazon.com Associates’ Program’s status is up in the air due to the fact that our home base is in California—you can still go there and BUY it!] Thank you, the Elemental News of the Day.





                                                                                     


Here's the countdown to December 21, 2012: from today, we have 289 days to go until the End of Days, the End of Time, Armageddon, and the End of the Mayan Calendar!  Everybody, beware!



                                                                                  



STINKBUG 2012


                                                                                      





Chef B. H. “BC” Cznystekinki

END Commentary 03-09-2012

Copyright © 2012 by MHB Productions

Word Count: 2,308.



CULINARY POLITICS



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Elemental News of the Day Commentary-Opinion-Sports-Foodservice for Friday, March 09, 2012 by Chef B. H. “BC” Cznystekinki

SANDWICH SEMINAR, PT. XIV

Sandwich Seminar, Pt. XIV: ‘B. C.’s Reuben Sandwich—the Best Delicatessen Sandwich ever with Hints on how to cook the Perfect Corned Beef Brisket,’ by Chef B. H. “BC” Cznystekinki



Bakersfield, CA, 03-09-2012 F: I have had some calls from friends telling me how much they enjoyed yesterday’s installment of the Sandwich Seminar and that has made me feel good: the sandwich we made yesterday is probably the best one I’ve ever done anywhere on the planet!  Today, we are going to move in a different direction and we’re going to tackle a delicatessen classic—the Reuben Sandwich—which is a beauty made with medium-to-dark rye bread, lean corned beef, sauerkraut, and the famed secret sauce of Thousand Island dressing!  It’s fairly simple to construct but oh so good if you like all of the components that go into it.  Sure, there are some who don’t, I mean—sauerkraut is a bit of an acquired taste but this sandwich has been around for so many years and has its proponents virtually everywhere because I will bet you $50 there’s hardly a restaurant around that doesn’t have one on its regular menu!

The exact history on this sandwich is unknown to me but I do know that some use a combination of turkey and corned beef or pastrami and that it can also be made on sourdough bread.  I think that the version we’re doing here today is the one known by most people but all sorts of variations abound like substituting coleslaw in the place of the sauerkraut, a way to coddle those who don’t care for sour, pickled cabbage.  However you do it, the sandwich will always be successful due to the quality of its ingredients so be sure to use nothing but the best corned beef brisket and be sure to cook your own; the directions for doing that are included in this recipe.  We prefer using Boyle’s corned beef as that is the time-honored brand favored by most delicatessens around the country and is available in different forms from them.  We’ve bought corned beef steam ship rounds for carving on banquets and man, oh, man—the leftovers from that make tremendous sandwiches!  Anyhow, here’s the recipe for MY Reuben:

(#754) THE ONE-AND-ONLY REUBEN SANDWICH





Yield:  4 servings  / Mis-en-place: 10 minutes to make the sandwich / 7-8 hours if you cook the corned beef which includes 4-5 hours’ cooking time and another 3-4 for chill time:




Qty.
Measure
Item
Other
24
Ounces
Semi-lean corned beef, steamed

8
Each
Slices rye bread—preferably medium to dark

Softened butter

8
Slices
Tillamook Swiss cheese

.25
Cup
Thousand island dressing

8
Ounces
Steamed sauerkraut

The Finish:
4
Each
Large green lettuce leaves
Rinsed
4
Each
Kosher dill pickle spears

8
Each
.25” Roma tomato slices

4
Each
Sprigs of fresh parsley 




Method:

1.      Mis-en-place: have everything ready with which to work!

2.      If you are cooking your own corned beef, you should cook it the day before so that it can sit overnight and firm up in the refrigerator.  Corned beef can be cooked in one of several ways: it can be steamed in a steamer (of course!); it can be simmered for hours; and it can be dual-cooked meaning that it can be simmered first and then glazed in the oven with brown sugar (which is phenomenal!). 

a.      To simmer or to steam the corned beef put the brisket into either a pot or into a solid (“male”) hotel pan.  Sprinkle heavily with whole pickling spice and then in the case of the simmered version, cover it with cold water. 

b.      To simmer it, place the pot atop the stove and add your bouquet garni vegetables: carrots, leeks, yellow onions, and celery and you can do likewise with the steamed version.  Bring the simmered variety to a boil and then reduce heat to low and simmer for 4-5 hours or until the meat is tender and a kitchen fork—inserted dead center—meets no resistance and the meat feels as though it’s going to fall apart. Remove from the pot then and transfer to a pan.  Place an oscillating fan upon it to cool it down quickly.  Be sure to reserve the cooking liquid for reheating the meat or for making sauces or soups. 

c.      To steam the corned beef, place inside your steamer and steam for 4-5 hours or until the meat’s described as above.  As it steams, it will generate a great deal of liquid in the pan so make sure the steamer doesn’t run out of water during the process.  Generally, the corned beef brisket will cook in less time in the steamer than it will atop the stove but this depends upon your appliances and the time you have to accomplish the task.

d.      To both simmer and glaze: follow the directions for the “simmered variety” above and then when it’s tender, remove from the pot and transfer to a sheet pan.  Have a standard oven heated to 375°F or a convection oven—fan “on”—at 325°F.  Place the brisket inside the oven and rub it first with yellow mustard and then pack it with dark brown sugar.  Allow the sugar to get somewhat crusty and when it is, begin dribbling corned beef stock upon it to barely melt it.  Continue doing this until the meat has developed a beautiful glaze.  When it has, remove it from the oven and cool it down. 

e.      Note: get the cooked meat and stock to below 45°F as quickly as you can.  This is essential to prevent the spread of foodborne illness.  Sure, most of the time, no one ever gets sick but don’t be the one in one-hundred to have a problem; always cool your cooked meats and broths down as quickly as possible in shallow pans and then store in the refrigerator until completely chilled.

f.       When the meat’s chilled, it will also be firm and the thing to do now is to trim off most of the excess fat and generally, if you follow the seam in a brisket cut, you can slice it into two different parts.  If you can’t fine, but if you can, do so as it will make it easier to slice it.  Now, if you have an electric slicer (restaurants ALL have one; home units are available in kitchen stores), slice it as THIN as you possibly can and have ready.  Have what you need for the sandwiches and freeze the rest.

3.      When it’s time to make the Reuben sandwiches, butter one side EACH of the 8 slices of rye bread. Place the buttered sides DOWN on either a hot griddle flattop or in a couple of skillets.  Top each with one slice of Swiss cheese and allow the bread to toast and the cheese to melt.  Meanwhile, steam the corned beef and the sauerkraut and when ready, divide both between four of the slices of rye bread.  First place the sauerkraut and then the corned beef.  Then, divide the Thousand Island dressing between the four.

4.      When the cheese has melted and the bread is toasty, assemble the sandwiches by putting the tops on and then remove them from the heat source to the cutting board.  Slice them in whatever way is attractive to you and secure with toothpicks.  Transfer to four serving plates and place a leaf of green leaf lettuce on each.  On top of that, place two slices of tomato and one dill pickle spear.  Finally, add a piece of parsley to the plate so that it’s an attractive presentation.  Then, your Reuben sandwiches are ready to be served.

5.      Note: always try to place the sauerkraut fresh from the steamer into a fine-meshed sieve and press out as much residual liquid as is possible so that it won’t moisten the sandwiches and make them messy and uneatable.  Dry the meat on paper towels, too, in order to make the best presentation as possible.  Use your common sense and you won’t ever go wrong in the kitchen!

The Reuben sandwich has been around for many years, it’s even in the 1913 White House Cookbook so we know it’s an old-timer.  You will find it in ever delicatessen from one end of the nation to the other and probably many places around the world.  Always use the best corned beef—like Boyle’s—because a sandwich like this deserves it!

Here’s a recipe for Thousand Island dressing if you wish to make your own:

BC’S THOUSAND ISLAND DRESSING





1. One Quart:




Qty.
Measure
Item
Other
.25
Cup
Grated carrots

.5
Cup
Minced yellow onions

.75
Cup
Minced celery

1.125
Cup
Mayonnaise

.5
Cup
Catsup

.125
Cup
Vegetable oil

.5
Teaspoon
Worcestershire sauce

.5
Teaspoon
Lemon juice

.25
Teaspoon
Kosher salt

.25
Teaspoon
Minced garlic

.0125
Teaspoon
Black pepper

3/8
Cup
Sweet pickle relish w/ juice

1
Cup
Grated hard-boiled eggs

.25
Cup
Chopped black olives

.25
Cup
Chopped assorted bell peppers




Method:

1.      Combine all ingredients in the bowl of an electric mixer and blend together well.  Chill until needed and then enjoy with your favorite salad.  Be sure to store in a sanitized, airtight container in your refrigerator for no longer than 5-7 days.  Always be sure to scrape the sides of the jar and the bottom of the lid after use, too, in order to prevent the growth of foodborne illness-causing organisms. 

If you enjoy Thousand Island dressing, you will enjoy this one.  It will last for about a week and after that, you should discard it due to the vegetables and their ability to sour it.
This is a good cut for a Reuben Sandwich, the classic "angle cut" using either rye or sourdough bread.
                                                                                  
                                      ---------------------------------------------                                     

As always, we have a great time around here and that is why we want all of you to become a part of the organization by submitting articles to us for inspection and full-credit.  It is a great thing if you would do this as it’s a symbiotic relationship: we give you the space to share your recipes and in return, you send us more and more people who will hopefully become dedicated followers of the END.  In this day and age of multi-diversity across the Internet, it is important that the voices of more and more people from all walks of the foodservice profession are heard—join us. We urge our readership to write to us and leave comments and if there are any of you, who would care to write an article for us, please get in touch via Magnolia Hilltop Brewers, P.O. Box 20669, Bakersfield, CA 93390-0669.  We obviously don’t pay anything but you will be given a full byline and that’s worth its weight in gold.  We want as many people who want to write to be able to do so and we believe that by presenting a forum for our fellow chefs, we are doing something for our beloved industry.  We love diversity and hope to add new and different authors to our pantheon of chefs, food and beverage directors, and culinary professionals.  Come on and join us, it’ll be fun! Expect that when all of us have run through our cycle, we will be introducing some brand-new talent or so I’m told.

Please remember to avoid doing business with AARC Technology in Bakersfield, CA.  These people don’t care about the small customer anymore but instead put all of their attentions onto their corporate customers. It’s sad to not remember why one has the success they do or from where it came.

Well, we’ve made it through our Friday installment which leaves us but two days and then I will be gone until sometime in late August or early September, what could be better than that?  Besides, next week is St. Patrick’s Day and then soon, we’ll be hitting the big ones—Easter and Mother’s Day—and then it will be the summer holidays and before you know it, it will be Labor Day and the summer will be coming to an end and there I will be!  So, it’s sort of amazing to look at it like that but that is how we do it in the foodservice industry, our lives move along in coordination with the holidays because there’s no one out there who I know who isn’t affected by the different holidays.  At some point, if we continue adding Muslims to the nation, we’ll probably be celebrating theirs, too.  I hope it doesn’t get to that point but only the Good Lord knows the outcome of that.  Seeing as how I live in a highway community—Valencia, California—we are affected by the holidays as the traffic streams north and south 24/7/365 and also east and west, the former being the least traveled while the west leads to the California coast.  People come from all over to go to Six Flags’ Magic Mountain and that means the restaurants alongside the highway are open 24/7 and jam-packed all the time.  A person can make a killing here on the I-5 Interstate Highway but the costs of doing business are high, too.  Paying the help to be bombarded for a solid 8 hours requires a pretty high pay scale but at least here, we have access to a bigger talent pool than they do north in both Gorman and Frazier Park and also Grapevine, CA, as you enter the southern end of the San Joaquin Valley.  Grapevine is probably the worst because the help has to come down from Frazier Park or up from Mettler and Bakersfield and there’s never enough help to staff the places comfortably.  Ah, well, pay no attention to me—I’m just talking shop!   

 Anyhow, let us close with this impassioned plea—please leave some comments and/or become a follower and why not spend some money and purchase an album by the DOORS and/or buy a cookbook from Amazon.com—we want to make some money here so help us out by buying something!  We are allied with them and are pleased to market their merchandise! See you next time around! Bye!  

Thank you, my friends!

B. H. “BC” Cznystekinki

B. H. “BC” Cznystekinki

Certified Working Chef, AAC, ACF



This is me back in the 1960's when I was a young sous chef working in a local hotel in Laguna Beach, California. I always loved to cook and apprenticed as a young man which is what most of have done who write for the Elemental News of the Day. We share a love for the culinary world and do our best to share that love with you. We hope you enjoy it! Nowadays, I make my home in Valencia, California.

---30---

END Commentary for Friday, March 09, 2012 by Chef B. H. “BC” Cznystekinki.



Please note that everyone who writes for the Elemental News of the Day is their own person entitled to their own opinions, attitudes, and insanity so does not necessarily speak for all of us.  Thanks, Stinkbug.

REFERENCES:

This original essay was written by the one-and-only Chef B. H. “BC” Cznystekinki.



Recipe created by Chef B. H. “BC” Cznystekinki on April 19, 1973 in Laguna Beach, CA.

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This is #938 a 16” x 20" original oil painting by Beverly Carrick entitled, “Rancho Santa Margarita.’" It's among her more beautiful works and is available for sale. You can see much more of her work at her Website, located at http://www.beverlycarrick.com or at Brian Carrick's Facebook page. At her Website, you will see not only more original oil paintings but also lithographs, giclees, prints, miniatures, photographs, and even her award-winning instructional video entitled, "Painting the Southwest with Beverly Carrick." Beverly has been painting for more than 60 years and is known around the world. Her work hangs in private and public galleries and is followed by a great many fans that circle the globe. We urge you to go to her Website NOW and view her work. It's possible that you will find something you like and will want to buy it for yourself, a friend, a loved one, or a neighbor! You will not be disappointed so please: do yourself a favor and go there IMMEDIATELY! Thank you, the Elemental News of the Day!

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