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Wednesday, February 22, 2012

“Mis-en-Place, Pt. XI: ‘How to make the Classic Stocks properly—one of the Most Important Jobs in any Professional Kitchen (featuring Fish and Shellfish Stocks’), Pt. IV by Chef Olaf Bologolo”



Today, we begin presenting another of the Los Angeles bands for your listening pleasure—the DOORS.  They have always been among the top bands of the psychedelic era thanks to the presence and voice of Jim Morrison and their sound.  They were unique in their style and are still as good today as they were then.  We are very proud to present them!  Their SIXTH album—“Absolutely Live”—was released on April 17, 1970 and is still one of the all-time classic rock albums. [Unfortunately, the link may no longer be possible due to the fact that the Amazon.com Associates’ Program’s status is up in the air due to the fact that our home base is in California—you can still go there and BUY it!] Thank you, the Elemental News of the Day.




                                                                               

Here's the countdown to December 21, 2012: from today, we have 304 days to go until the End of Days, the End of Time, Armageddon, and the End of the Mayan Calendar!  Everybody, beware!



                                                                                 


STINKBUG 2012


                                                                                       



Chef Olaf Bologolo

END Commentary 02-23-2012

Copyright © 2012 by MHB Productions

Word Count: 2,291.



CULINARY POLITICS



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Elemental News of the Day Commentary-Opinion-Sports-Foodservice for Thursday, February 23, 2012 by Chef Olaf Bologolo

MIS-EN-PLACE, PT. XI

Mis-en-Place, Pt. XI: ‘How to make the Classic Stocks properly—one of the Most Important Jobs in any Professional Kitchen (featuring Fish and Shellfish Stocks’), Pt. IV by Chef Olaf Bologolo



Bakersfield, CA, 02-23-2012 Th: Right off the bat, I am going to give you the recipe for the “Floating Island” one more time so you will be prepared to make it as the two stocks we’re making today are going to require it if they’re going to be turned into “fish consommé; i. e., fume.” Fume is the refined version for fish and shellfish broths as compared to those associated with meats and poultry but it’s a must as generally, fish broths are made into cream sauces with delicate, herb-based flavors that are served with poached, steamed, sautéed, or baked fish entrees as opposed to dishes made with beef, pork, poultry, or lamb.  It’s a good idea to just transform fish and shellfish stocks into fumes because that is what we’ll end up doing anyway so here it is, the fabulous Floating Island:  

(#212) FLOATING ISLAND



This is the method you use whenever you wish to clarify a stock or broth.  The “floating island” floats on the top of the stock and collects all of the impurities that float up and attach themselves to it.  It seems kind of strange but this is how they do it in classical cooking. Give it a shot the next time you wish to make a stock into a consommé.

Method:

1.      Separate egg whites from yolks using them somewhere else. As for the whites, beat them till they’re stiff (meringue) on an electric mixer. Then, spread them across the top of the stock and leave it on the lowest flame possible and allow sitting another 1-2 hours.

2.      The “floating island” will then collect any more particular matter as it floats towards the top. When time’s up, scrape it off the top and re-strain the stock- you’ll have perfection.

This is one that every cook or chef needs to have on hand in their recipe books as it is essential to making consommé-quality stocks.

Making fish and shellfish broths and stocks is somewhat different than making those associated with meats and poultry such as we have over the past three days.  Bones are oven-roasted for color and then placed on the stove and simmered for hours, sometimes days, until their flavors are released along with their colors.  It takes time to access the bone marrow for beef and it’s there that the rich gelatins are found that produce consommé-quality stocks.  Many times, the gelatinous materials are flavorless but when seasoned and combined with other ingredients become very powerful.  In the old days of classic Austro-Hungarian Cookery, it was common that dishes were made with chaux froid or the gelatin-based decorations that garnished roasted meats, baked hams, and other assorted dishes.  The garde manger position was an intense position in its own part of the kitchen as that was HE did back in those days: decorate the meats, poultry, and fish for presentation on multi-course dinners, buffets, and brunches.  The work was truly beautiful, in many ways reminiscent of the colorful tattoos seen on most of the people you meet out on the streets today.  Flowers, trees, vines, pastoral scenes, all of it were created with the use of gelatin that was collected from the bone marrow-enriched stocks. 

Fish bones, surprisingly enough, are hotbeds of gelatin much as are chicken wings.  They’re stocked off and when refrigerated the next day, a cap forms on the top of the container which is removed and stored for enriching sauces, soups, and other items associated with these protein sources. Another product that utilized the gelatins were the aspics that used to be standard presentations on all buffet lines in every hotel, country club, and fine-dining establishment from one end of the civilized world to the other.  While I was never fond of aspics, the Good Lord knows I made plenty of them so perhaps that is what we’ll look at next meaning maybe tomorrow.  The sad thing is, if I do a blog post on aspics, no one will show up.

Let’s make our stocks for today:

(#217) FISH STOCK





Yield:  about one quart / Mis-en-place: 1-1.5 hours:




Qty.
Measure
Item
Other
2
#
Fish trim, skeletons, heads, tails, etc

2
Quarts
Water

2
Quarts
Chardonnay 

1
Cup
Carrot trimmings

1
Cup
Chopped white onions

2
Cups
Chopped celery, leaves, roots, etc.
Rinsed
1.5
Teaspoons
Dried thyme

3
Each
Bay leaves

1
Bunch
Parsley

1
Teaspoon
White peppercorns

1
Tablespoon
Better-than-Bouillon fish or clam base

1
Each
Lemon, halved




Method:

1.      Mis-en-place: have everything ready with which to work! Combine all ingredients in a saucepot and place over a medium-high flame.  Bring to a simmer but DON’T boil.  Reduce the heat to low and allow it to reduce for an hour or so until you have approximately ONE quart of liquid; then, strain out the debris through the use of a double-Chinois lined with a clean towel and then pour through the washed and rinsed chinois lined with cheesecloth into a sanitized pan or hotel pan. 

2.      Place atop a cooling rack and allow an oscillating fan to blow across its surface to hasten the cooling process.  Reduce the heat to below 45°F as quickly as possible and then transfer to a sanitized storage container to finish cooling it in your refrigerator.  Transfer it into individual Styrofoam storage containers equipped with tight-fitting lids and then label the contents and date it for when it was made.  You can freeze this for use at a later time or use it now. Don’t refrigerate for longer than a day or two in your fridge; otherwise, you will have to toss it out.

3.      Note: should you care to make it into fish fume, prepare a floating island out of egg whites and allow it to circle about the top of the heated liquid on the stove in a saucepot.  The purpose of this classic French trick is for the meringue-like egg whites to collect each and every one of the impurities that lurk within the stock.  Never dispense with this critical step! Always strive for perfection!

Fish stocks are important if one works in a foodservice business in which large amounts of fresh fish are prepared weekly and if they make clam chowder, then it’s essential to be able to make fish stock out of the scraps and trim.  Never toss anything out; always utilize everything to its fullest potential.

Okay, here is the shellfish stock that is an essential one for all sauté cooks as many times we have all sorts of prawn, scallop, and crab sautés that require the introduction of the appropriate stock and it’s important to note that whenever one has the pantry-person peel any shellfish item to NOT throw the shells, skins, or peelings away!  It is important to save and to utilize them as they are an indispensable source of flavor that’s not easily duplicated!

Here it is:

(#218) SHELLFISH STOCK





Yield:  2 quarts  / Mis-en-place: 1-2 hours:




Qty.
Measure
Item
Other
2
#
Lobster, shrimp, and/or clam shells

1
Cup
Butter

.125
Cup
Hungarian paprika

2
Quarts
Water

2
Quarts
White wine

2
Cups
Carrot trimmings

2
Cups
Chopped white onions

2
Cups
Chopped celery

1
Tablespoon
Dried thyme

3
Each
Bay leaves

1
Bunches
Parsley

1
Teaspoon
White peppercorns

1
Cup
Chardonnay




Method:

1.      Mis-en-place: have everything ready with which to work! Sauté the shellfish shells in the butter in a large sautoir over a medium flame.  As the shells cook, add the paprika, blending well, and continue cooking. 

2.      Add the remaining ingredients and raise the temperature to a high simmer; then, keep there and simmer for an hour or so until the stock has reduced to two-quarts.  Pour the stock through a double chinois lined with a clean towel into a sanitized container; then, return to the stove and clarify via a Floating Island, made from egg whites. If a great deal of liquid is lost to evaporation, replace it so that it never goes below TWO quarts.

3.      Remove the Floating Island using a skimmer and strain the stock one more time via the double chinois.  Then, remove the towel and replace with cheesecloth and strain one more time into a sanitized baking dish or hotel pan.  Reduce to below 45°F as quickly as possible and then divide between sanitized containers for storage.  Label as to contents and date so that you will know when to toss it out should it not be used (two weeks in your freezer, 2-3 days in your refrigerator). 

This is the best shellfish stock recipe that I’ve ever seen and it’s one that every foodservice professional who works in the back of the house should know.

---------------------------------------------

As always, we have a great time around here and that is why we want all of you to become a part of the organization by submitting articles to us for inspection and full-credit.  It is a great thing if you would do this as it’s a symbiotic relationship: we give you the space to share your recipes and in return, you send us more and more people who will hopefully become dedicated followers of the END.  In this day and age of multi-diversity across the Internet, it is important that the voices of more and more people from all walks of the foodservice profession are heard—join us. We urge our readership to write to us and leave comments and if there are any of you, who would care to write an article for us, please get in touch via Magnolia Hilltop Brewers, P.O. Box 20669, Bakersfield, CA 93390-0669.  We obviously don’t pay anything but you will be given a full byline and that’s worth its weight in gold.  We want as many people who want to write to be able to do so and we believe that by presenting a forum for our fellow chefs, we are doing something for our beloved industry.  We love diversity and hope to add new and different authors to our pantheon of chefs, food and beverage directors, and culinary professionals.  Come on and join us, it’ll be fun! Expect that when all of us have run through our cycle, we will be introducing some brand-new talent or so I’m told.

Please remember to avoid doing business with AARC Technology in Bakersfield, CA.  These people don’t care about the small customer anymore but instead put all of their attentions onto their corporate customers. It’s sad to not remember why one has the success they do or from where it came.

Okay, we have met our Thursday—Hump Day—and can officially bid it adieu.  Tomorrow, we will probably look at some basic spice agents as we’ve finished our stocks or so I believe but I will know more tomorrow.  I mean, there are only so many animals from which to make stock unless, of course, we make raccoon, beaver, and porcupine which there isn’t much of a market for.  Sure, if we lived in pioneer days, there would be a demand for those, I’m sure, but we don’t, we live in the time of creeping socialism, never-ending political campaigns, and the looming specter of the Affordable Healthcare Act!  None of these things makes for a very optimistic future let me tell you, especially the last one on the list.  I cannot tell you the last time I’ve hired a new employee as I have no idea what the hell the playing field is going to be come 2014 when the Obamacare becomes the law of the land; let me tell you this: I am not going to bring new employees onboard and then terminate them because I can no longer afford to pay their healthcare, taxes, insurance, and all the rest of the obligations imposed upon me by the federal government.  My wife and I are considering selling our business and retiring to New Zealand, Costa Rica, or possibly, Puerto Rico.  Yes, I know, the last one is a part of the United States but its different: it’s a commonwealth and not a state so from what I understand, not all of the laws that are going to destroy the states will affect them.   Anyhow, let us close with this impassioned plea—please leave some comments and/or become a follower and why not spend some money and purchase an album by the DOORS and/or buy a cookbook from Amazon.com—we want to make some money here so help us out by buying something!  We are allied with them and are pleased to market their merchandise! See you next time around! Bye!  

PEACE!

Olaf Bologolo

CEC, ACF, Washington State Chefs Association, Retired 


This is a photo of me taken at an ACF Convention back in the early 1960's when I was a representative from our California chapter. Anyhow, I'm a great deal older than this picture now but that's what we're doing, sharing OLD pictures of all of us. I'm still a handsome guy, however!

---30---

END Commentary for Thursday, February 23, 2012 by Chef Olaf Bologolo.



Please note that everyone who writes for the Elemental News of the Day is their own person entitled to their own opinions, attitudes, and insanity so does not necessarily speak for all of us.  Thanks, Stinkbug.

REFERENCES:

This original essay was written by the one-and-only Chef Olaf Bologolo.



Recipe created by Chef Olaf Bologolo on September 13, 1976 in Wasco, CA.

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STINKBUG AT THE COUNTDOWN TO THE END DAYS

                                                                                                                                                                

                                                               

This is #1369 a 12” x 16" original oil painting by Beverly Carrick entitled, “Monument Valley" It's among her more beautiful works and is available for sale. You can see much more of her work at her Website, located at http://www.beverlycarrick.com or at Brian Carrick's Facebook page. At her Website, you will see not only more original oil paintings but also lithographs, giclees, prints, miniatures, photographs, and even her award-winning instructional video entitled, "Painting the Southwest with Beverly Carrick." Beverly has been painting for more than 60 years and is known around the world. Her work hangs in private and public galleries and is followed by a great many fans that circle the globe. We urge you to go to her Website NOW and view her work. It's possible that you will find something you like and will want to buy it for yourself, a friend, a loved one, or a neighbor! You will not be disappointed so please: do yourself a favor and go there IMMEDIATELY! Thank you, the Elemental News of the Day!

Web Pictures VI
                                                                                




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Olaf Bologolo, Mis-en-Place, The Prepmaster, The Doors, The Pantry Chef, Stocks, Stocks and Sauces, Fish, Shellfish, Standard Preparations, Culinary Classics, Food Production, Quantity Cooking, Culinary Basics,










                                                                                  
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