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Tuesday, February 21, 2012

“Mis-en-Place, Pt. X: ‘How to make the Classic Stocks properly—one of the Most Important Jobs in any Professional Kitchen (featuring Standard Au Jus and Lamb Stock, and the Floating Island’), Pt. III by Chef Olaf Bologolo”



Today, we begin presenting another of the Los Angeles bands for your listening pleasure—the DOORS.  They have always been among the top bands of the psychedelic era thanks to the presence and voice of Jim Morrison and their sound.  They were unique in their style and are still as good today as they were then.  We are very proud to present them!  Their FIFTH album—“Morrison Hotel”—was released on February 01, 1970 and is still one of the all-time classic rock albums. [Unfortunately, the link may no longer be possible due to the fact that the Amazon.com Associates’ Program’s status is up in the air due to the fact that our home base is in California—you can still go there and BUY it!] Thank you, the Elemental News of the Day.






                                                                                 

Here's the countdown to December 21, 2012: from today, we have 305 days to go until the End of Days, the End of Time, Armageddon, and the End of the Mayan Calendar!  Everybody, beware!




                                                                                      

STINKBUG 2012

                                                                                      




Chef Olaf Bologolo

END Commentary 02-22-2012

Copyright © 2012 by MHB Productions

Word Count: 2,291.



CULINARY POLITICS



ELEMENTALNEWSOFTHEDAY.BLOGSPOT.COM-STINKBUG—THE HEADLINES

Elemental News of the Day Commentary-Opinion-Sports-Foodservice for Wednesday, February 22, 2012 by Chef Olaf Bologolo

MIS-EN-PLACE, PT. X

Mis-en-Place, Pt. X: ‘How to make the Classic Stocks properly—one of the Most Important Jobs in any Professional Kitchen (featuring Standard Au Jus and Lamb Stock, and the Floating Island’), Pt. III by Chef Olaf Bologolo



Bakersfield, CA, 02-22-2012 W: We had a good time yesterday making our stocks and learning our accompaniments that more or less go along with this sort of work and today, we shall continue with more of the same as we come back and do a standard au jus recipe which features the famed “floating island” and also a wonderful lamb stock that will enliven any lamb recipe in which you use it!  Both of these are essential items in the classic kitchen but nowadays, most restaurants like the chain eateries that have spread across the United States from one end to the other have cooks who can barely understand English, much less the classical French culinary styles.  All they can do is to head into the storeroom and look for a bi-lingual can or jar that informs them as to what’s inside the product so they can come throw it together and claim to be chefs.  I don’t know about you, but I am tired of our country being swamped by a bunch of illiterate folks who don’t know their asses from their elbows when it comes to cooking.  Like everyone else here at the END, with the possible exception of El Chilote, I am not enamored by the wide-open borders, the DREAM Act, and everything else done for the benefit of non-citizens.  I think I’ll move to Mexico and demand them to take care of my Italian ass!

Okay, enough talk about politics, I realize we are no longer a political blog like the old one at Choseit.com but like it or not, we still have the right to say what we feel in hearts as the disclaimer at the end of the blog informs the readership.  If you don’t want to comment on the food articles, hell, comment on what I’ve just said!  Someone comment on something, we have a $10,000 bet on the line for whoever can draw the first 10 comments from the readership!  We are the fastest growing foodservice blog on the Internet and yet, no one says a damned thing! Where are you, folks? I want to win the bet from Stinkbug!

Let’s make our au jus recipe first and please note: it features the Floating Island formula:

(#216) STANDARD AU JUS





Yield:  2.5 quarts / Mis-en-place: 2-3 hours:




Qty.
Measure
Item
Other
1
Gallon
Beef stock

3.5
Ounces
Better-than-Bouillon beef base

1
Cup
Worcestershire sauce

1
Each
White onion, peeled and chopped

2
Cups
Chopped celery

1
Medium
Carrot, chopped

.5
Cup
Garlic cloves

2
Teaspoons
Whole thyme

2
Each
Bay leaves

Floating Island (see below)




Method:

1.      Mis-en-place: have everything ready with which to work!

2.      Combine the first NINE ingredients together in a large saucepot and place over a medium flame; bring to a boil and once there, drop the flame to LOW.  Prepare the Floating Island by doing the following:

(#212) FLOATING ISLAND



This is the method you use whenever you wish to clarify a stock or broth.  The “floating island” floats on the top of the stock and collects all of the impurities that float up and attach themselves to it.  It seems kind of strange but this is how they do it in classical cooking. Give it a shot the next time you wish to make a stock into a consommé.

Method:

3.      Separate egg whites from yolks using them somewhere else. As for the whites, beat them till they’re stiff (meringue) on an electric mixer. Then, spread them across the top of the stock and leave it on the lowest flame possible and allow sitting another 1-2 hours.

4.      The “floating island” will then collect any more particular matter as it floats towards the top. When time’s up, scrape it off the top and re-strain the stock- you’ll have perfection.

This is one that every cook or chef needs to have on hand in their recipe books as it is essential to making consommé-quality stocks.

5.      Follow the recipe as outlined above.  When the stock has reduced to about 2.5 quarts, remove the floating island with a skimmer and discard it.  Then, strain the au jus through a double-chinois lined with a towel to remove any other residual impurities and debris.  Finally, strain this purified stock through the chinois lined with wax paper and by the end of this procedure, you should have a clear, beef stock that is perfect.  Should you wish to season it still more, you can but if you use the drippings from a prime rib as part of the beginning measure of beef broth, you will have a very tasty au jus that will flavor your meats beyond description.

This is the classic method for preparing top-quality au jus which is as described, consommé-quality.  It is the perfect accompaniment for all dishes requiring au jus and this one is the best accompaniment to a perfectly-cooked prime rib or standing rib roast.

Here is the Lamb Stock recipe:

(#215) BASIC LAMB STOCK





Yield:  2.5 gallons  / Mis-en-place: 24-36 hours:




Qty.
Measure
Item
Other
5
#
Lamb bones

2
#
Lamb fat

1
#
White mirepoix

1.25
#
Batch mirepoix

1
Piece
Whole garlic cluster

2
Tablespoons
Dried mint

2
Cups
Gallo Ruby Port

3-4
Gallons
Cold water

2
#
Chopped celery with leaves and root ends

1
#
Carrots, chopped with peels and ends

1
#
Yellow onions, chopped with peels

1
#
Leeks, chopped; green and white parts

1
Tablespoon
Better-than-Bouillon lamb base

4
Each
Bay leaves

.125
Cup
Whole rosemary

.125
Cup
Dried marjoram

2
Cups
Worcestershire sauce




Method:

6.      Mis-en-place: have everything ready with which to work! Preheat your standard oven to 450°F or your convection oven—fan “on”—to 400°F.  Place the lamb bones into a roasting pan and add the fat.  Place inside the hot oven and roast them until they’re beginning to show signs of charcoal on the pan’s floor and they’re getting roasted.  Drop the heat by 50°F and continue roasting them until a great deal of oil’s been rendered; drain off and reserve this oil for use in making roux.  Add the two mirepoix items to the pan, stirring them in; it’s important to add these to the mix as the flavor needs to be bolstered with the aromatics. 

7.      Pour the wine into the pan to deglaze it.  Scrape the charcoal off of the bottom with a kitchen spoon making sure to loosen all of it.  Turn off the oven and transfer the bones along with the charcoalized material into a large stock pot and cover with the water.  Add the rest of the ingredients and bring the pot to a boil; when it has, keep it there for 4-5 minutes and then lower the heat to the lowest of lows and simmer for 24-36 hours, checking the level of the liquid occasionally. 

8.      As it simmers, skim off any oil that rises to the surface as well as foam and discard it.  Keep an eye on the pot so that it never runs out of liquid but if you have the flame on LOW, it shouldn’t.  When everything appears to be cooked to mush, pour the broth through a chinois lined with wax paper and another chinois placed atop it.  Remove all debris and residue and discard.  Return the stock to the stove and complete the process:

9.      Return to a boil and add the Worcestershire sauce.  Keep there for several minutes and then lower the flame to low and reduce the liquid to 2.5 gallons or less.  This will concentrate the flavor.  When the process is over, pour the stock through a fine-meshed sieve once more into several large pans placed atop cooling racks.  Place a fan to blow on the stock and bring it down to less than 45°F as quickly as possible; then transfer into Styrofoam containers with lids or some other sanitized storage containers with lids and label as to the contents, the date, and the amount and freeze for use at a later date.

Here’s the Simple Mirepoix:

(#206) SIMPLE MIREPOIX





Yield:  1# / Mis-en-place: 5 minutes:




Qty.
Measure
Item
Other
1
#
Onions, peeled

.5
#
Carrots, peeled

.5
#
Celery, trimmed




Method:

1.      Mis-en-place: Simple mirepoix is something that can be used as a soup base or larger depending upon the dish you’re making. A larger cut would be for the making of stews with only potatoes and possi­bly tomatoes added.

This is a standard preparation that every chef must know. Here’s the White Mirepoix, another important item to have in your culinary repertoire:

(#207) WHITE MIREPOIX





Yield:  1.25# / Mis-en-place: 5 minutes:




Qty.
Measure
Item
Other
.5
#
Onions, peeled

.5
#
Leeks, white part only

.5
#
Parsnips, peeled

.5
#
Celery, trimmed

.5
#
Mushroom trimmings




Method:

1.      Mis-en-place: Have all vegetables washed and peeled; cut to size depending upon dish you are making and the length of time it needs to be cooked.

This is used for sauces and stocks that you want to keep light in color and not darken.  It’s important to know, too. It is important to add both of these simple mirepoix items to the roasting process to release aromatics and to add flavor to the bones.  These charcoalized bits and pieces of debris will be removed prior to adding the water but are essential to building a robust lamb flavor.

            Lamb stock is usually much more intense than either chicken or veal due to the powerful flavor of the young bones.  In the old days when mutton was much more popular, one can only imagine the smell of the kitchens in which it was prepared; however, if you prepare this in the correct way, it should smell enticingly good so don’t be afraid to prepare it.  Lamb is much too good to accompany with a sauce based upon beef stock!

Okay, that will do it, now we’ll move on to the next part of our daily blog experience…

---------------------------------------------

As always, we have a great time around here and that is why we want all of you to become a part of the organization by submitting articles to us for inspection and full-credit.  It is a great thing if you would do this as it’s a symbiotic relationship: we give you the space to share your recipes and in return, you send us more and more people who will hopefully become dedicated followers of the END.  In this day and age of multi-diversity across the Internet, it is important that the voices of more and more people from all walks of the foodservice profession are heard—join us. We urge our readership to write to us and leave comments and if there are any of you, who would care to write an article for us, please get in touch via Magnolia Hilltop Brewers, P.O. Box 20669, Bakersfield, CA 93390-0669.  We obviously don’t pay anything but you will be given a full byline and that’s worth its weight in gold.  We want as many people who want to write to be able to do so and we believe that by presenting a forum for our fellow chefs, we are doing something for our beloved industry.  We love diversity and hope to add new and different authors to our pantheon of chefs, food and beverage directors, and culinary professionals.  Come on and join us, it’ll be fun! Expect that when all of us have run through our cycle, we will be introducing some brand-new talent or so I’m told.

Please remember to avoid doing business with AARC Technology in Bakersfield, CA.  These people don’t care about the small customer anymore but instead put all of their attentions onto their corporate customers. It’s sad to not remember why one has the success they do or from where it came.

Day Three is over and done and man, oh, man, are we having fun!  We are discussing one of the less popular jobs in the back kitchen performed by the Prepmaster or the Sous Chef depending upon the size of the foodservice operation or in the case of chain restaurants like Hooters, Golden Corral, Applebee’s, and even the Red Lobster, is dispensed with because the cooks go and get the cheaper base products out of the storeroom for use in making stocks.  Hell, they don’t even make stocks, they open cans and put the crap in a saucepot and heat it up and brag about their “saucier talents.”  I know, it’s disgusting, but that is the way the foodservice world is going nowadays, chain eateries are knocking out independents right and left.  It began with the Fast Food concept which knocked out the coffee shops and now the chains are knocking out the classy restaurants.  That is the sign of the times, I guess, maybe it’d be a better world once December 21, 2012 has come and gone and the world has been destroyed!  It is certainly better than living in the America in which we now find ourselves.  I hope to God that something happens in November 2012 that will turn the country around and if not, if it’s four more years of the same, well, I hope the world falls apart on the 21st of December! Yikes! Now, I’m sounding like a nut! Yes, I’m laughing out loud, pay no attention to me, please don’t send the IRS after me for having exercised my First Amendment rights!  Let us close with this impassioned plea—please leave some comments and/or become a follower and why not spend some money and purchase an album by the DOORS and/or buy a cookbook from Amazon.com.  We are allied with them and are pleased to market their merchandise! See you next time around! Bye!  

PEACE!

Olaf Bologolo

CEC, ACF, Washington State Chefs Association, Retired 


This is a photo of me taken at an ACF Convention back in the early 1960's when I was a representative from our California chapter. Anyhow, I'm a great deal older than this picture now but that's what we're doing, sharing OLD pictures of all of us. I'm still a handsome guy, however!

---30---

END Commentary for Wednesday, February 22, 2012 by Chef Olaf Bologolo.



Please note that everyone who writes for the Elemental News of the Day is their own person entitled to their own opinions, attitudes, and insanity so does not necessarily speak for all of us.  Thanks, Stinkbug.

REFERENCES:

This original essay was written by the one-and-only Chef Olaf Bologolo.



Recipe created by Chef Olaf Bologolo on October 29, 1973 in Wasco, CA.

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STINKBUG AT THE COUNTDOWN TO THE END DAYS
                                                                                  
                                                                                     
                                                                               
This is #1368 a 24” x 36" original oil painting by Beverly Carrick entitled, “Kern Canyon Dawn" It's among her more beautiful works and is available for sale. You can see much more of her work at her Website, located at http://www.beverlycarrick.com or at Brian Carrick's Facebook page. At her Website, you will see not only more original oil paintings but also lithographs, giclees, prints, miniatures, photographs, and even her award-winning instructional video entitled, "Painting the Southwest with Beverly Carrick." Beverly has been painting for more than 60 years and is known around the world. Her work hangs in private and public galleries and is followed by a great many fans that circle the globe. We urge you to go to her Website NOW and view her work. It's possible that you will find something you like and will want to buy it for yourself, a friend, a loved one, or a neighbor! You will not be disappointed so please: do yourself a favor and go there IMMEDIATELY! Thank you, the Elemental News of the Day!

Web Pictures VI
                                                                             




PLEASE NOTE: WE HAVE BEEN STYMIED BY THE CALIFORNIA LAW TAXING THE INTERNET AND UNTIL WE CAN BEGIN POSTING LINKS TO AMAZON.COM AGAIN, YOU WILL HAVE TO GO THERE YOURSELF.  BE SURE TO WRITE GOVERNOR JERRY BROWN AND TELL HIM HE’S WRONG FOR WHAT HE’S DOING.  HE’S CRIPPLING BUSINESS BUT OF COURSE, HE KNOWS THAT! THANK YOU, THE ELEMENTAL NEWS OF THE DAY.















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Olaf Bologolo, Mis-en-Place, The Prepmaster, The Doors, The Pantry Chef, Stocks, Stocks and Sauces, Beef, Lamb, Standard Preparations, Culinary Classics, Food Production, Quantity Cooking, Culinary Basics,











                                                                                
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