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Monday, February 20, 2012

“Mis-en-Place, Pt. IX: ‘How to make the Classic Stocks properly—one of the Most Important Jobs in any Professional Kitchen (featuring Chicken and Pork Stocks, Standard Mirepoix, White Mirepoix, and French Fines Herbs’), Pt. II by Chef Olaf Bologolo”



Today, we begin presenting another of the Los Angeles bands for your listening pleasure—the DOORS.  They have always been among the top bands of the psychedelic era thanks to the presence and voice of Jim Morrison and their sound.  They were unique in their style and are still as good today as they were then.  We are very proud to present them!  Their FOURTH album—“The Soft Parade”—was released on June 25, 1969 and is still one of the all-time classic rock albums. [Unfortunately, the link may no longer be possible due to the fact that the Amazon.com Associates’ Program’s status is up in the air due to the fact that our home base is in California—you can still go there and BUY it!] Thank you, the Elemental News of the Day.






                                                                               

Here's the countdown to December 21, 2012: from today, we have 306 days to go until the End of Days, the End of Time, Armageddon, and the End of the Mayan Calendar!  Everybody, beware!



                                                                                   


STINKBUG 2012



                                                                                  





Chef Olaf Bologolo

END Commentary 02-21-2012

Copyright © 2012 by MHB Productions

Word Count: 2,271.



CULINARY POLITICS



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Elemental News of the Day Commentary-Opinion-Sports-Foodservice for Tuesday, February 21, 2012 by Chef Olaf Bologolo

MIS-EN-PLACE, PT. IX

Mis-en-Place, Pt. IX: ‘How to make the Classic Stocks properly—one of the Most Important Jobs in any Professional Kitchen (featuring Chicken and Pork Stocks, Standard Mirepoix, White Mirepoix, and French Fines Herbs’), Pt. II by Chef Olaf Bologolo



Bakersfield, CA, 02-21-2012 T: Yesterday, we tackled two of the most important stocks in the culinary pantheon, beef and veal, both of which are the foundation for more dishes than I can remember!  On the flipside of that coin are the two we’re going to make today: chicken stock and that other, so-called “white meat,” pork.  Both of these are pretty important, too, as chicken is basically used in many dishes, including those that aren’t based upon poultry.  I mean, many soups as well as entrees use combinations of stock and whenever they do, it’s 90% of the time chicken as chicken is the harmonious agent that improves the taste of virtually everything in an understated, unseen way.   That is the basis of GREAT cooking: layers of flavors welded together with different “glues” that when tasted by the customer or family member, depending upon who it is you cook for, are not easily diagnosed.  When a diner goes away pondering what the heck was in that dish that he or she just ate that was, oh, so good, the chef has succeeded in his or her task: delight the consumer.   

Anyhow, our stocks—as you saw yesterday—have small amounts of quality flavoring bases in them, the wonderful Better than Bouillon bases.  We use these, not to cheat or to take shortcuts but to bolster and to increase the flavors of the items we’re roasting and boiling.  It’s sort of like adding sourdough starter or even a piece of yesterday’s dough to today’s bread in order to make it that much better and to speed up the task.  It’s not cheating, it’s being smart, especially when bases the quality of BTB are available to us in specialty stores like Smart and Final.  Always search out the best ingredients and if you cannot find them at the stores in which you shop, search for them online.  As always, Amazon.com has a wide assortment of gourmet products so look to them first!

Okay, here’s our Chicken Stock:

(#210) CHICKEN STOCK #1


Yield:  2.5 gallons  / Mis-en-place: 5-6 hours:


Qty.
Measure
Item
Other
4
#
Chicken bones

1
#
White mirepoix

.125
Cup
White peppercorns

1
Tablespoon
Dry rosemary

1
Tablespoon
Dry thyme

1
Tablespoon
Ground bay leaf

1
Tablespoon
Better-than-Bouillon chicken soup base



                                                                         
Method:

1.      Mis-en-place: have everything ready with which to work!

2.      Place the chicken bones in a large enough saucepot to hold them and then cover with COLD water; allow to sit for 5-10 minutes and then pour the water off and discard it. 

3.      Fill the pot with cold water again and add the remaining ingredients; place it over a medium-high flame and bring to a simmer but NO higher.  Skim off any fat that rises to the surface and reduce heat to the lowest of lows.  Allow it to barely simmer for 4-5 hours, replenishing water if it is reduced TOO low. 

4.      When time’s up, strain it through a double-Chinois lined with a clean towel into a pot.  When completely through, remove the towel and replace it with a piece of cheesecloth.  Pour the stock through it one more time into a sanitized pot.  Discard the cheesecloth and the impurities with it.  Cool the stock in a shallow pan or two atop a cooling rack.  If necessary, bring a oscillator out and have it blow directly upon it.  The purpose of this is to get the stock below 45°F as quickly as possible so that any chance of foodborne illness developing is quashed. 

5.      When the stock has completely cooled, pour it into a clean, sanitized container with a tight-fitting lid and refrigerate.  If need be, divide it up and transfer it to individual Styrofoam containers, label and date as to the contents and the day you prepared it, clamp on lids and freeze for use at a later time.

This is one of the traditional ways of preparing good-quality chicken broth.  It’s a bit quicker as much like making sourdough breads, you use the chicken base to intensify and to get the process going just as sourdough starter is used to increase the power of the yeast and the starter used in making the bread.  Keep this recipe handy as there’s nothing like making stock from scratch!

Alright, let’s make our Pork Stock:

(#214) BASIC PORK STOCK

Yield:  2.5 gallons  / Mis-en-place: 24-36 hours:


Qty.
Measure
Item
Other
5
#
Pork bones

2
#
Pork fat, diced

1.25
#
White mirepoix

2
Teaspoons
White peppercorns

2
Tablespoons
Dry thyme

1.25
#
Standard Mirepoix

2
Cups
Gallo French Colombard

3-4
Gallons
Cold water

2
#
Chopped celery with leaves and root ends

2
#
Chopped yellow onions with peels

1
#
Chopped carrots with peels and ends

1
Bunch
Parsley, chopped 
Rinsed
2
Each
Granny Smith apples, chopped

1
Stick
Cinnamon

.25
Cup
Better-than-Bouillon pork base

4
Each
Bay leaves

1
Tablespoon
French fines herbs

.125
Cup
Minced fresh garlic

.125
Cup
Minced shallots

.5
Cup
Worcestershire sauce



Method:

1.      Mis-en-place: have everything ready with which to work!  Preheat your standard oven to 450°F or your convection oven—fan “on”—to 400°F.  Place the pork bones into a roasting pan and add the fat.  Place inside the hot oven and roast them until they’re beginning to show signs of charcoal on the pan’s floor and they’re getting roasted.  Drop the heat by 50°F and continue roasting them until a great deal of oil’s been rendered; drain off and reserve this oil for use in making roux.  Add the two mirepoix items to the pan, stirring them in; it’s important to add these to the mix as the flavor needs to be bolstered with the aromatics. 

2.      Pour the wine into the pan to deglaze it.  Scrape the charcoal off of the bottom with a kitchen spoon making sure to loosen all of it.  Turn off the oven and transfer the bones along with the charcoalized material into a large stock pot and cover with the water.  Add the rest of the ingredients and bring the pot to a boil; when it has, keep it there for 4-5 minutes and then lower the heat to the lowest of lows and simmer for 24-36 hours, checking the level of the liquid occasionally. 

3.      As it simmers, skim off any oil that rises to the surface as well as foam and discard it.  Keep an eye on the pot so that it never runs out of liquid but if you have the flame on LOW, it shouldn’t.  When everything appears to be cooked to mush, pour the broth through a chinois lined with wax paper and another chinois placed atop it.  Remove all debris and residue and discard.  Return the stock to the stove and complete the process:

4.      Return to a boil and add the Worcestershire sauce.  Keep there for several minutes and then lower the flame to low and reduce the liquid to 2.5 gallons or less.  This will concentrate the flavor.  When the process is over, pour the stock through a fine-meshed sieve once more into several large pans placed atop cooling racks.  Place a fan to blow on the stock and bring it down to less than 45°F as quickly as possible; then transfer into Styrofoam containers with lids or some other sanitized storage containers with lids and label as to the contents, the date, and the amount and freeze for use at a later date.

Here’s the Simple Mirepoix:

(#206) SIMPLE MIREPOIX


Yield:  1# / Mis-en-place: 5 minutes:


Qty.
Measure
Item
Other
1
#
Onions, peeled

.5
#
Carrots, peeled

.5
#
Celery, trimmed




Method:

5.      Mis-en-place: Simple mirepoix is something that can be used as a soup base or larger depending upon the dish you’re making. A larger cut would be for the making of stews with only potatoes and possi­bly tomatoes added.

This is a standard preparation that every chef must know. Here’s the White Mirepoix, another important item to have in your culinary repertoire:

(#207) WHITE MIREPOIX

Yield:  1.25# / Mis-en-place: 5 minutes:


Qty.
Measure
Item
Other
.5
#
Onions, peeled

.5
#
Leeks, white part only

.5
#
Parsnips, peeled

.5
#
Celery, trimmed

.5
#
Mushroom trimmings




Method:

6.      Mis-en-place: Have all vegetables washed and peeled; cut to size depending upon dish you are making and the length of time it needs to be cooked.

7.      This is used for sauces and stocks that you want to keep light in color and not darken.  It’s important to know, too. It is important to add both of these simple mirepoix items to the roasting process to release aromatics and to add flavor to the bones.  These charcoalized bits and pieces of debris will be removed prior to adding the water but are essential to building a robust lamb flavor.

Here’s the French fines herbs’ recipe:

(#209A) FRENCH FINES HERBS


Yield:  3.5 cups / Mis-en-place: 30 seconds:


Qty.
Measure
Item
Other
.5
Cup
Dried parsley flakes

.5
Cup
Whole sweet basil

.5
Cup
Whole chervil

.5
Cup
Whole rosemary

.5
Cup
Whole oregano

.5
Cup
Whole tarragon

.5
Cup
Whole marjoram




Method:

8.      Mis-en-place: have everything ready with which to work!

9.      Combine everything together in an airtight Zip-Loc bag and freeze.  Use this for all bouquet garnis, mirepoix mixtures, and meats, poultry and fish.

Why spend big money buying a little jar from the spice rack when you can make it yourself, save money, and have more on hand?  Always keep it in the freezer where its potency will intensify and will also extend its shelf life from weeks to months.

Making one stock is pretty much like making another with the exception that different meats have subtle differences between them depending upon what’s traditional and the types of dishes with which we associate them.  In this case, the hidden flavors of apples and cinnamon lurk beneath the surface of the finished stock and blossom when sauces featuring similar ingredients are prepared with the stock as the foundation.

Well, I think that will do it for us today so we’ll move on to our traditional close…

---------------------------------------------

As always, we have a great time around here and that is why we want all of you to become a part of the organization by submitting articles to us for inspection and full-credit.  It is a great thing if you would do this as it’s a symbiotic relationship: we give you the space to share your recipes and in return, you send us more and more people who will hopefully become dedicated followers of the END.  In this day and age of multi-diversity across the Internet, it is important that the voices of more and more people from all walks of the foodservice profession are heard—join us. We urge our readership to write to us and leave comments and if there are any of you, who would care to write an article for us, please get in touch via Magnolia Hilltop Brewers, P.O. Box 20669, Bakersfield, CA 93390-0669.  We obviously don’t pay anything but you will be given a full byline and that’s worth its weight in gold.  We want as many people who want to write to be able to do so and we believe that by presenting a forum for our fellow chefs, we are doing something for our beloved industry.  We love diversity and hope to add new and different authors to our pantheon of chefs, food and beverage directors, and culinary professionals.  Come on and join us, it’ll be fun! Expect that when all of us have run through our cycle, we will be introducing some brand-new talent or so I’m told.

Please remember to avoid doing business with AARC Technology in Bakersfield, CA.  These people don’t care about the small customer anymore but instead put all of their attentions onto their corporate customers. It’s sad to not remember why one has the success they do or from where it came.

Ah, over and done!  I am glad that we’ve begun working on prepmaster preparations and hope that it will keep us busy throughout the rest of this week.  There is so much to do, to tell, to share when it comes to what goes on in a professional kitchen that it’s almost impossible to grasp without hours in which to do it.  We owe so much to our European cousins who without them and their input, we’d be at a loss when it comes to professional cookery.  They are basically the ones who blazed the way classically whereas the yanks are the ones who have made “country cooking” into an art form.  But to get to where it is we want to go, we still need knowledge of the basic preparations such as sauces, stocks, and broths lest we be at a loss when it comes time to form them into a palatable dish. Foodservice is about science and science is about theories, proving them and making them work time after time after time.  If we can’t produce the same results on the 100th try that we produced on the first, the thirtieth, and the seventy-fifth, then we haven’t proven our case.  That, to me, is what this blog is all about: proving ourselves in the culinary-science sense.  Well, enough said on that matter.  Let us close with this impassioned plea—please leave some comments and/or become a follower and why not spend some money and purchase an album by the DOORS and/or buy a cookbook from Amazon.com.  We are allied with them and are pleased to market their merchandise! See you next time around! Bye!  

PEACE!

Olaf Bologolo

CEC, ACF, Washington State Chefs Association, Retired 


This is a photo of me taken at an ACF Convention back in the early 1960's when I was a representative from our California chapter. Anyhow, I'm a great deal older than this picture now but that's what we're doing, sharing OLD pictures of all of us. I'm still a handsome guy, however!

---30---

END Commentary for Tuesday, February 21, 2012 by Chef Olaf Bologolo.



Please note that everyone who writes for the Elemental News of the Day is their own person entitled to their own opinions, attitudes, and insanity so does not necessarily speak for all of us.  Thanks, Stinkbug.

REFERENCES:

This original essay was written by the one-and-only Chef Olaf Bologolo.



Recipe created by Chef Olaf Bologolo on July 18, 1974 in Wasco, CA.

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STINKBUG AT THE COUNTDOWN TO THE END DAYS

                                                                                 
                                                               
                                                                                
This is #1367 a 12” x 16" original oil painting by Beverly Carrick entitled, “Desert Wash" It's among her more beautiful works and is available for sale. You can see much more of her work at her Website, located at http://www.beverlycarrick.com or at Brian Carrick's Facebook page. At her Website, you will see not only more original oil paintings but also lithographs, giclees, prints, miniatures, photographs, and even her award-winning instructional video entitled, "Painting the Southwest with Beverly Carrick." Beverly has been painting for more than 60 years and is known around the world. Her work hangs in private and public galleries and is followed by a great many fans that circle the globe. We urge you to go to her Website NOW and view her work. It's possible that you will find something you like and will want to buy it for yourself, a friend, a loved one, or a neighbor! You will not be disappointed so please: do yourself a favor and go there IMMEDIATELY! Thank you, the Elemental News of the Day!

Web Pictures VI
                                                                             




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