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Sunday, October 9, 2011

“Famous Restaurant Recipes, Pt. XXVII: Beef Stroganoff with Linguine and Crème Fraiche—amazingly Delicious!”

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                                                   STINKBUG 2011

                                                                             



Chef Pedro Munoz

END Commentary 10-10-2011

Copyright © 2011 by MHB Productions

Word Count: 1,912.



CULINARY POLITICS



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Elemental News of the Day Commentary-Opinion-Sports-Foodservice for Monday, October 10, 2011 by Chef Pedro R. Munoz

FAMOUS RESTAURANT RECIPES, PT. XXVII

 Famous Restaurant Recipes, Pt. XXVII: Beef Stroganoff with Linguine and Crème Fraiche—amazingly Delicious!


Bakersfield, CA, 10-10-2011 M: Good morning, once again, my friends, at the early hour at which we hit the Internet with our daily posts.  We actually post at 11:59 P.M. each and every day for the NEXT day so when you search for something in the archives, you need to always look for the day before to find the article you desire to find.  This is the way we’ve done it since our inception with the NEW Elemental News of the Day last year on Thanksgiving, November 25, 2010.  Back then, Stinkbug did all of the articles because he was bummed out that our old host, Choseit.com, dumped us for having taken three weeks off to go to Iowa last year on an ill-fated adventure.  It was really horrible what they did to us because we posted every single day, rain or shine, holiday or weekend, and they still dumped us and all of our 1.5 years of hard work.  Screw ‘em, we love Google and hope that Google loves us and we do hope that you will ALL become followers and help support us so we can keep publishing the excellent articles that we do.  

I drew “Famous Restaurant Recipes” out of Stinkbug’s hat so that is what I am going to do this week: give you the best entrees that I know.  I’ve spent a great deal of my career working in both the bakery and the pantry which I know is somewhat of a peculiar situation but that is what I’ve done.  Most cooks detest the pantry but I always saw it as an artistic position, the same way I view the bakery.  Both positions allow the cook to shine and being the sous chef of either one in a grand hotel or country club is no shame at all.  So, it’s fun for me to do something completely different!

Our recipe for today is Classic Beef Stroganoff but served with linguine and instead of using sour cream which doesn’t hold up under high temperatures, we will be using Crème Fraiche.  The latter is able to withstand higher temperatures and NOT separate which is the disgusting aspect of doing Stroganoff, if one doesn’t do it right.  It never looks good to send a plate out from the kitchen in which the sauce shows sign of dairy separation, white blotches in a dark sauce looks totally unprofessional.  People send dishes that look crappy back to the kitchen where the chefs sometimes do naughty things to them—especially if they come back more than once. Anyhow, let’s do it and have some fun:

(#1055) CLASSIC BEEF STROGANOFF


Yield:  6 servings / Mis-en-place: 12 + hours:


Qty.
Measure
Item
Other
The Stroganoff:
2
#
Beef eye of round, julienned

12
Ounces
Michelob beer

1
Tablespoon
Adolph’s meat tenderizer

.75
Cup
Seasoned flour

.5
Cup
Melted butter or beef fat

.75
Cup
Diced yellow onions

.75
Cup
Diced celery

1.5
Teaspoons
Kosher salt

.25
Teaspoon
White pepper

1.25
Teaspoon
Ground nutmeg

.25
Teaspoon
Dillweed

1.5
Teaspoons
Minced garlic

1
Cup
Beef broth

1
Cup
Chicken broth

1
Cup
Reserved beer marinade

3
Cups
Sliced mushrooms
Blanched
1
Cup
Crème Fraiche 

.5
Cup
Chenin blanc white wine

.125
Cup
Vodka

.125
Cup
Freshly minced parsley
Rinsed
The Pasta:
3
Quarts
Boiling water

1
Tablespoon
Olive oil

1.5
Teaspoons
Kosher salt

.25
Teaspoon
Yellow food color

9
Ounces
Fresh linguine




Method:

1.      Mis-en-place: have everything ready.  Combine the julienned beef eye of round with the beer and meat tenderizer in a plastic or glass bowl with a tight-fitting lid and refrigerate overnight.

2.      The next day, do two things about 1.5 hours before dinner: put the pasta water on the stove in a large saucepot and add the oil, salt, and food color.  Have the heat on LOW.  The second thing to do is to have a large saucepot or skillet on the stove over a medium flame—allow it to warm. Drain the beef, reserving the beer, and toss it in the seasoned flour.  Place it in a strainer and gently shake to filter off the excess flour; set aside.

3.      Add the butter to the warm saucepot and allow it to melt.  Meanwhile, combine the two stocks with the reserved beer marinade in a saucepot for about 3-cups of liquid; if not enough, add additional water to make it so.  Raise the flame to medium underneath it. Preheat your standard oven to 375°F or a convection oven to 325°F with the fan, “on.”

4.      Add the onions and celery to the butter and raise the heat.  Add the beef along with the salt, pepper, nutmeg, Dillweed, and minced garlic.  Cook the beef for several minutes and raise the heat to medium-high and as the pot with the liquid comes to a boil, pour it into the meat mixture.

5.      This mixture will bubble up and a sauce will begin to form.  Allow it to do so, stirring occasionally, and cook it to rare-medium.  Add the mushrooms, Crème Fraiche, Chenin Blanc, and the vodka and cook for several minutes.  Allow the sauce to come to a boil and continue cooking for another 3-4 minutes longer. 

6.      Spray an ovenproof pan equipped with a tight-fitting lid with PAM or some such other food release spray and then pours the Stroganoff mixture into it, cover with the lid, and insert inside your preheated oven for ONE hour.  During this time, the meat will tenderize even more and the sauce will develop.  Check it occasionally, just to be sure the meat hasn’t softened to nothing. When it’s done, check the sauce and the tenderness: the meat should be very tender and the sauce should be loose.  If necessary, place the pan over a medium-flame and re-thicken with a bit of cornstarch mixed with water.  Adjust the thickness and the flavor, adding more spices/herbs, if necessary.

7.      While this is ongoing, heat the water in the pasta pot to a boil and add the fresh linguine.  Fresh pasta cooks within 2-6 minutes so keep a close eye on it.  Don’t allow it to clump it up when you add it to the water; stir it in with a kitchen fork as briskly as you can without breaking it up.  Cook al dente.

8.      When the pasta’s done, drain and discard the water but DON’T rinse the linguine.  Divide it between serving plates, top with equal amounts of Stroganoff, and sprinkle with parsley for a simple garnish and then serve. 

This is but one recipe for this classic dish.  Sour cream can be used in place of Crème Fraiche but the beauty of using it is that it can tolerate higher temperatures than can the sour cream.  It takes a bit of time to make it but it’s worth it. Another way you can do it with the sour cream is to add it to the Stroganoff when it exits the oven and before you serve it. Do it off of the flame so that it won’t separate. Anyhow, this is a great dish and a great way to utilize your beef trim, if you cut your own meat.

Here’s the Crème Fraiche:

CRÈME FRAICHE


Yield: about 2 cups / Mis-en-place: about 2 hours depending upon the temperature:


Qty.
Measure
Item
Other
2
Cups
Whipping cream

2
Teaspoons
Cultured buttermilk

2
Teaspoons
Vanilla extract

.25
Teaspoon
Almond extract




Method:

1.      Combine the first two ingredients in the top of a double-boiler or a Bain Marie and heat to NO hotter than 85°F.  Let it sit out at a temperature between 60°F and 85°F until its thickened.  Then, whisk in the last two items and refrigerate.  Keep on hand for no more than 2 days.

Crème Fraiche is “French Cream” which in France is a raw 30% cream that is allowed to mature until its flavor is somewhat nutty and not acidic.  This can be used for desserts as is or in cooking as a substitute for sour cream because it can handle higher temperatures than can the sour cream before it begins to curdle. The above recipe is actually a substitute for the real thing but that’s because in the United States, everything must be pasteurized.

Here’s the Seasoned Flour recipe, a standardized one we use for everything:

SEASONED FLOUR



1. About 2.5 cups:


Qty.
Measure
Item
Other
2.5
Cups
All-purpose flour

1
Tablespoon
Cayenne pepper

1
Tablespoon
White pepper

1.5
Tablespoon
Hungarian paprika

1.5
Teaspoons
Granulated garlic

1
Tablespoon
Kosher salt

2
Teaspoons
Parsley flakes



Method:

1.      Combine all ingredients together and store in an airtight jar, baggie, or whatever else and either keep at room temperature or in your freezer until needed.

It’s important to have a seasoned flour recipe for breading different foods and this is a good one.  You will use this recipe many times.

As my good friend, Chef Charles “the Chuckster” Smithenstein mentioned yesterday, I have had a great time today and as always enjoy my opportunities to write for the Elemental News of the Day. We urge our readership to write to us and leave comments and if there are any of you, who would care to write an article for us, please get in touch via Magnolia Hilltop Brewers, P.O. Box 20669, Bakersfield, CA 93390-0669.  We obviously don’t pay anything but you will be given a full byline and that’s worth its weight in gold.  We want as many people who want to write to be able to do so and we believe that by presenting a forum for our fellow chefs, we are doing something for our beloved industry.  We love diversity and hope to add new and different authors to our pantheon of chefs, food and beverage directors, and culinary professionals.  Come on and join us, it’ll be fun! Expect that when all of us have run through our cycle, we will be introducing some brand-new talent or so I’m told.

Please remember to avoid doing business with AARC Technology in Bakersfield, CA.  These people don’t care about the small customer anymore but instead put all of their attentions onto their corporate customers. It’s sad to not remember why one has the success they do or from where it came.

Our first day together has come to an amazing end and I do hope that you have found today’s recipe to be a good one.  We keep getting closer to that big day when Chef Carrick is going to tie the knot on Halloween and that’s going to be a big deal!  We are going to be at Noriega’s over on Baker Street in Old Town Kern and then he and his lovely bride, the Lovely Lady Linda will be flying to Maui for a three-week honeymoon.  Yes, indeed, we should all be going on that one, buen amigos! There is no place better than the islands in the fall, that’s when things are lovely over there and believe it or not, it does get COLD in December and January! No one believes that unless they’ve been there.  Yes, it’s getting time for me and my wife to take a vacation and I am thinking Molokai is looking pretty good right now.  Anyhow, please leave some comments and/or become a follower and why not spend some money and purchase an album by the Grateful Dead and/or buy a cookbook from Amazon.com.  We are allied with them and are pleased to market their merchandise! See you next time around! Bye!    

Thank you!

Pedro Munoz

Executive Chef Pedro Munoz
CEC, American Culinary Federation, Inc.


This is me at an awards dinner in San Diego for the Chefs de Cuisine in 1978. I began my culinary career in the 1950's and had the good fortune of working with many different chefs before meeting my good friend, Stinkbug, in the mid-1980's in Bakersfield.

---30---

END Commentary for Monday, October 10, 2011 by Chef Pedro R. Munoz



Please note that everyone who writes for the Elemental News of the Day is their own person entitled to their own opinions, attitudes, and insanity so does not necessarily speak for all of us.  Thanks, Stinkbug.

REFERENCES:

This original essay was authored by the one-and-only Chef Pedro R. Munoz

Recipes created by Chef Pedro R. Munoz on June 22, 1984 in Los Angeles, CA.

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This is #900, a 30” x 40" original oil painting by Beverly Carrick entitled, “Ball at the Faerie Fountain." It's among her more beautiful works and is available for sale. You can see much more of her work at her Website, located at http://www.beverlycarrick.com or at Brian Carrick's Facebook page. At her Website, you will see not only more original oil paintings but also lithographs, giclees, prints, miniatures, photographs, and even her award-winning instructional video entitled, "Painting the Southwest with Beverly Carrick." Beverly has been painting for more than 60 years and is known around the world. Her work hangs in private and public galleries and is followed by a great many fans that circle the globe. We urge you to go to her Website NOW and view her work. It's possible that you will find something you like and will want to buy it for yourself, a friend, a loved one, or a neighbor! You will not be disappointed so please: do yourself a favor and go there IMMEDIATELY! Thank you, the Elemental News of the Day!

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