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Tuesday, September 6, 2011

“Famous Restaurant Recipes, Pt. XXII: Veal Sauté ala Oskar—one of the Greatest Veal Dishes from the Golden Age of French Cuisine”

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                                                   STINKBUG 2011



                                                                             


Chef Goldie “Goldfish” MacNamara

END Commentary 09-07-2011

Copyright © 2011 by MHB Productions

Word Count: 1,675.



CULINARY POLITICS



ELEMENTALNEWSOFTHEDAY.BLOGSPOT.COM-STINKBUG—THE HEADLINES

Elemental News of the Day Commentary-Opinion-Sports-Foodservice for Wednesday, September 07, 2011 by Chef Goldie “Goldfish” McNamara

FAMOUS RESTAURANT RECIPES, PT. XXII

 Famous Restaurant Recipes, Pt. XXII: Veal Sauté ala Oskar—one of the Greatest Veal Dishes from the Golden Age of French Cuisine

Bakersfield, CA, 09-07-2011 W:  Happy Wednesday in September, friends, it’s so good to be here again.  I enjoyed presenting the veal recipe to you yesterday and have decided to give you another, classic, Auguste Escoffier dish for your dining delight: Veal Sauté ala Oskar.  This is the famed sautéed veal dish topped with succulent asparagus and Dungeness crabmeat and then made sinful by covering it in Sauce Béarnaise.  This is one of the famed dishes that used to be on all fine-dining menus whether they were high-class restaurants, hotels, or country clubs. I learned how to make it years and years ago when I was a young cook coming up the culinary ladder and was somewhat amazed that one could make combinations like this.  I mean, topping a tender piece of veal with flavorful crabmeat and a hollandaise sauce flavored with tarragon and sherry? Wow, some things are unbelievably good and this is one of them! I think we should get down to it, friends!

VEAL SAUTÉ ALA OSKAR





Yield: 4 servings / Mis-en-place: about 20-30 minutes:




Qty.
Measure
Item
Other
4
5-6-ounce
Veal cutlets, tenderized

Seasoned flour
Accompanying
.5
Cup
Melted butter

2
Tablespoons
Olive oil

Kosher salt and pepper seasoning
Accompanying
.5
Teaspoon
Whole thyme

2
Cups
Chicken stock

1
Cup
Melted butter

2
Cups
Dungeness crab meat, squeezed as dry as possible;
1
Teaspoon
Minced garlic

.25
Teaspoon
Kosher salt

.25
Cup
Chardonnay

8
Each
Asparagus spears, blanched

Sauce Béarnaise
Accompanying
Hungarian paprika
Garnish
Freshly minced parsley flakes, rinsed
Garnish



Method:

1.      Dust the veal cutlets in the seasoned flour and shake off the excess; set aside to rest. 

2.      Heat the first measure of melted butter and olive oil in a large skillet and do so over a medium-high flame.  As soon as it begins to sizzle, add the cutlets and brown lightly on both sides.  Season to taste with the Kosher Salt and Pepper.  Add the whole thyme and pour in the chicken stock and raise the flame to high and reduce the liquid to almost nothing.

3.      Heat the one-cup measure of butter in a separate skillet placed over medium-heat.  Add the crab meat, garlic and salt, and cook.  Cook for several minutes and then pour in the chardonnay and raise the heat to get it to a simmer and reduce the liquid to almost nothing.  Then, remove the skillet from the flame and transfer the crab into a fine-meshed strainer.

4.      Heat the asparagus spears in the microwave or in the steamer and pull out.  Place a portion of veal on each of four serving plates and top with two spears of asparagus on either end.  Place a mound of sautéed Dungeness crab in the center and then ladle your prepared Sauce Béarnaise across the top.  Garnish with a sprinkle or two of Hungarian paprika and some parsley flakes. 

5.      Serve with a rice dish of some sort and vegetables of choice and you have a wonderful meal ahead of you, definitely one of the all-time great classics!

Veal Oskar has always been among the top sauté dishes loved by the general public.  Tasty with garlic, wine, crab, and crunchy asparagus and decadent because of the Béarnaise Sauce, what could be better?  Back in the 1980’s, this was among the top banquet dishes at the great hotels and restaurants as it could be mass-produced and done fairly fast. Only the Hollandaise/Béarnaise Sauces were time-consuming but in the mass-production arena, a lot of high-quality dry mixes are available to simplify the process.

KOSHER SALT AND PEPPER SEASONING





1. Yield: One cup of seasoning:




Qty.
Measure
Item
Other
1
Cup
Kosher salt

1.5
Tablespoon
Coarse black pepper

.5
Teaspoon
Hungarian paprika

.5
Teaspoon
Dry parsley flakes




Method:

1.      Combine together and store in an airtight container.

This is a good basic, salt-and-pepper seasoning that you will find many uses for.



SEASONED FLOUR





1. About 2.5 cups:




Qty.
Measure
Item
Other
2.5
Cups
All-purpose flour

1
Tablespoon
Cayenne pepper

1
Tablespoon
White pepper

1.5
Tablespoon
Hungarian paprika

1.5
Teaspoons
Granulated garlic

1
Tablespoon
Kosher salt

2
Teaspoons
Parsley flakes




Method:

1.      Combine all ingredients together and store in an airtight jar, baggie, or whatever else and either keep at room temperature or in your freezer until needed.

It’s important to have a seasoned flour recipe for breading different foods and this is a good one.  You will use this recipe many times. Here’s the Sauce Béarnaise:

(#297) SAUCE BÉARNAISE

Yield:  about 3 cups / Mis-en-place: 20 minutes +


Qty.
Measure
Item
Other
8
Each
Egg yolks

2
Tablespoons
Cold water

2
Teaspoons
Lemon juice

2-3
Cups
Warm drawn butter

1
Teaspoon
Kosher salt

.5
Teaspoon
Cayenne pepper

1
Teaspoon
Straight sherry

1
Tablespoon
Dry tarragon reduced in:

.25
Cup
Sherry




Method:

1.      Whip the yolks with cold water in the bowl you’ve chosen. Place it over the steaming pot. Hold it so with one hand that the bowl is just above the water and with the other, begin whisking and don’t stop.

2.       At first, it will look like liquid as you whisk but then you’ll notice that it’s expanding and getting a little bit foamy. KEEP WATCH ON THE BOTTOM OF THE BOWL NOW! 

3.      As you continue whisking, you’ll see that it is beginning to solidify and as soon as you see it showing the signs of scrambling, you pull it out of the pot immediately but all the while continuing to whisk furiously in order to homogenize it and prevent any damage from being done. Whisk in the lemju now.

4.      When it appears smooth, place the metal bowl inside a china bowl with a towel laid across it to keep it from slipping.

5.      Now, with one hand whisking constantly, begin to dribble the drawn butter in along the sides of the bowl using a ladle. Every time it shows that there’s too much liquid in the bowl and the yolks can’t handle it, STOP AND WAIT UNTIL THEY CAN! DO NOT RUSH THIS PROCESS! And if the yolks seem like they’ve had enough butter, don’t force them to take any more.

6.      When you have a light, velvety sauce, add the remaining ingredients and congratulate yourself on your luck. If you do this all the time, that’s cool, you’re OK, too. If your sauce begins to thicken on you during the evening, just whisk in a little bit of hot water until you get the desired texture. You can do this several times during the night.

7.      To turn this into Sauce Béarnaise from Hollandaise, reduce the tarragon in the sherry until the liquid is almost entirely gone and the dry herbs are moistened. Scoop them into the completed Hollandaise to transform it into Sauce Béarnaise!

8.      NOTE: the big problem with sauces of the Hollandaise family is holding temperature. Technically, anything in the danger zone (above 45 F and below 145 F is considered dangerous. But, you cannot hold these sauces at the temp because the heat will break the emulsion. Therefore, we set them close to the steam table to try to keep them warm and make more during the night as we can but that is not always easy. I’m telling you this just so that you as a consumer in the public know what’s up.

It’s for sure that you’re safe at banquets and places that don’t have anybody smart enough to make them like at chain-eateries. You only have to watch out at the country clubs and the fancy joints.  But for home use, this is the ideal sauce to have as it’s necessary to make many of the classic dishes of old, particularly the French dishes of Auguste Escoffier, 1846-1935, the father of modern French culinary thought.

As I intimated yesterday, I have had a great time today and as always enjoy my opportunities to write for the Elemental News of the Day. We urge our readership to write to us and leave comments and if there are any of you, who would care to write an article for us, please get in touch via Magnolia Hilltop Brewers, P.O. Box 20669, Bakersfield, CA 93390-0669.  We obviously don’t pay anything but you will be given a full byline and that’s worth its weight in gold.  We want as many people who want to write to be able to do so and we believe that by presenting a forum for our fellow chefs, we are doing something for our beloved industry.  We love diversity and hope to add new and different authors to our pantheon of chefs, food and beverage directors, and culinary professionals.  Come on and join us, it’ll be fun!

Please remember to avoid doing business with AARC Technology in Bakersfield, CA.  These people don’t care about the small customer anymore but instead put all of their attentions onto their corporate customers. It’s sad to not remember why one has the success they do or from where it came.

Well, we have only four more days to go before it’s time to be off again!  I love writing blogs for the faithful, devoted followers of the END and we certainly do hope that you are enjoying the myriad changes taking place here as we jettison the political bloggers in favor of more and more foodists.  We think you will appreciate all of the unique changes and do hope that you will share our site with your friends and family.  Please leave some comments and/or become a follower and why not spend some money and purchase an album by the Grateful Dead and/or buy a cookbook from Amazon.com.  We are allied with them and are pleased to market their merchandise! See you tomorrow! Bye!    

Thank you!

Goldfish

Goldie “Goldfish” McNamara

ACF, CWC, Cook IV Institutional Chef


This is me back in 1977 when I was working at the Hilton Inn in Bakersfield, CA, on Rosedale Highway. Now, it's the Red Lion Inn but back then, I was the night sous chef and ran the cook's line at the age of 24.

---30---

END Commentary for Wednesday, September 07, 2011 by Chef Goldie “Goldfish” McNamara



Please note that everyone who writes for the Elemental News of the Day is their own person entitled to their own opinions, attitudes, and insanity so does not necessarily speak for all of us.  Thanks, Stinkbug.

REFERENCES:

This original essay was authored by the one-and-only Chef Goldie “Goldfish” McNamara

Recipes created by Chef Goldie “Goldfish” McNamara on April 28, 1982 in Bakersfield, CA.

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Goldfish, Famous Restaurant Recipes, Auguste Escoffier, French Cuisine, Haute Cuisine, Fine-dining, Veal, Crabmeat, Sauté Dishes, Gourmet Cookery, the Grateful Dead, Good Food, Sauté Dishes, Shellfish,  










                                                                         
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