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Monday, September 5, 2011

“Famous Restaurant Recipes, Pt. XXI: Veal Sauté St. Raphael—California Cuisine from the 1980’s for a Brand-New Generation”

The Grateful Dead released their eighth album “American Beauty” was released in November 1970 and went Gold just like its predecessor, “Workingman’s Dead.”  This album is seen as one of their best ever and is still as popular today as it was then.  Virtually all of the songs on this one are classics: “Box of Rain,” “Friend of the Devil,” “Sugar Magnolia,” “Candyman,” and “Truckin’” all rank at the top of Dead Head favorites.  What more can be said? By all means, buy this CD!  Please take the handy link to Amazon.com, the world’s largest online retailer and buy it now! You won’t be disappointed!  Thank you, the Elemental News of the Day.




                                                                                  


Here's the countdown to December 21, 2012: from today, we have 473 days to go until the End of Days, the End of Time, Armageddon, and the End of the Mayan Calendar!  Everybody, beware!



                                                                                  



                                                   STINKBUG 2011


                                                                               


Chef Goldie “Goldfish” MacNamara

END Commentary 09-06-2011

Copyright © 2011 by MHB Productions

Word Count: 2,900.



CULINARY POLITICS



ELEMENTALNEWSOFTHEDAY.BLOGSPOT.COM-STINKBUG—THE HEADLINES

Elemental News of the Day Commentary-Opinion-Sports-Foodservice for Tuesday, September 06, 2011 by Chef Goldie “Goldfish” McNamara

FAMOUS RESTAURANT RECIPES, PT. XXI

 Famous Restaurant Recipes, Pt. XXI: Veal Sauté St. Raphael—California Cuisine from the 1980’s for a Brand-New Generation



Bakersfield, CA, 09-06-2011 T:  Hallelujah, it’s Tuesday and the Labor Day Weekend has come to a close.  I’m so glad that I was not out celebrating like so many others because one of the things that have always blown my mind is the number of folks who think they can get away with driving and drinking.  I mean, it’s bad enough to be busted and taken to jail, especially if it’s at the beginning of the weekend and not the end but to take the chance to go out and maybe kill somebody is mind-altering to me.  Yet, that is what happens, each and every holiday: people get behind the wheel, go out and crash into someone else leading to the classic “red asphalt.”  How horribly tragic, I mean, the foodservice industry is loaded with so many who go out and party every night after work and then think they can get into their cars and head for home.  How many co-workers have I had to pick-up and take home each and every day due to the fact that they were arrested and lost their licenses as a consequence is beyond calculation!  People need to wise up and either call a cab or find another way home or better yet—not drink—because even if you’ve done it for years and years and never been caught—sooner or later, your luck will run out.  Trust me; I’ve lost a few friends over the course of my lifetime, which to me is a tragic waste of talent, friendship, and love.  Folks need to wise up and take care as if it were your kids in the car with you or your spouse.

Well, that’s our public service message for today, friends, just don’t take chances. I’m one of those lightweights that even though I spent all my life working with the guys and going out and hanging out with them, I always knew my limit and never had so much as a fender-bender.  I remember several friends who drove home drunk and almost made it there and then in the last block or two, crashed into either a neighbor’s car or their house!  Needless to say, it didn’t end well for them!

We are going to make a classic dish of California Cuisine today, Veal Sauté a la St. Raphael.  Back in the 1980’s, California Cuisine was the thing, that and Ragin’ Cajun cooking ala Paul Prudhomme and his Cajun restaurants.  Virtually every single menu was running one or the other or sometimes both which meant we used a lot of avocados, tomatoes, asparagus, and cheese and/or crab meat in one combination or another.  Sure, we got the idea from Auguste Escoffier and some of his dishes but the avocado is what did it, and believe me, we used to sell the heck out of anything with a plump avocado on the top.  So, we are going to take a trip down Memory Lane and do it to it.  If you’re ready, let’s get it on and get funky!

VEAL SAUTÉ ST. RAPHAEL





Yield: 4 Servings / Mis-en-place: about 30 minutes with everything ready to work with:




Qty.
Measure
Item
Other
4
5-6-ounce
Veal cutlets
Tenderized
Seasoned flour

.25
Cup
Olive oil

Stinkbug seasoning

Fresh garlic

.25
Cup
Chablis

.5
Cup
Melted butter

3
Cups
Sliced button mushrooms
Peeled
1
Quart
Chicken broth

.25
Teaspoon
Lawrey’s seasoned salt

1
Teaspoon
Whole thyme

.125
Teaspoon
Black pepper

2
Cups
Chablis

1
Each
Ripe avocado, peeled and cut into 8 wedges

8
Spears
Asparagus, blanched

2.5
Cups
Supreme sauce

2
Teaspoons
Freshly minced parsley
Rinsed



Method:

1.      Mis-en-place: have everything ready.  Lightly tenderize the veal. Peel the mushrooms by removing the stems and then peeling the outer skins back from the underside and discarding.  By doing this, you will have a snow-white mushroom.  Wash and slice. Blanch the asparagus in simmering salted water just until al dente; then drain and plunge immediately into ice water to chill and to retard further cooking.

2.      Have seasoned flour and Stinkbug seasoning made and on-hand. Have 1-2 large skillets to sauté with. Preheat your standard oven to 375°F and have ready.

3.      Dredge the cutlets in the seasoned flour and shake off the excess.  Set aside. Heat the olive oil in the skillet until very warm and then add the cutlets and the first batch of seasonings—Stinkbug seasoning and fresh garlic, to taste—and brown lightly on both sides.  Hit with the first measure of Chablis and raise the heat.  Reduce it down to almost nothing until a pan residue remains. Remove from the skillet and place on a sheet pan lined with paper towels to dry.  Wipe out the skillet and return to medium-heat and when hot, add the melted butter and allow it to heat up.

4.      Return the veal cutlets and begin the sautéing process: cook in the butter and as you do so, add the mushrooms, salt, whole thyme, and pepper.  Turn the cutlets over and cook in the seasonings. Raise the flame to medium-high and add the chicken broth.  Allow it to bubble up and reduce it by half. 

5.      Add the second measure of wine and reduce it until a pan sauce begins to form.  Continue cooking until the liquid has practically disappeared and then cover with the sauce supreme.  Place the skillet in the oven and cover it with a sheet pan and allow it to sit for about 7-8 minutes.

6.      Remove and turn the cutlets over—gently—with either a fork or a spatula. Then, serve each cutlet atop a bed of rice pilaf or alongside some potatoes Anna and a vegetable of your choice.  Top with two wedges of avocado and two spears of the asparagus and then garnish with the freshly minced parsley and serve.

This was a dish developed in our kitchen based upon two influences: classic French cuisine and California cuisine back in the 1980’s and was a hit.  Back then, anything with avocados, tomatoes, asparagus, and maybe Dungeness crab meat was a real hit and this one was one of them without the crab.  Give it a shot in your place of business or at home and see how it works for you.

STINKBUG’S SEASONING





1. Yield: One cup of seasoning:




Qty.
Measure
Item
Other
1
Cup
Kosher salt

1
Tablespoon
Black pepper

1
Tablespoon
Granulated garlic

1.5
Teaspoon
Granulated onion

.5
Teaspoon
Hungarian paprika

1
Teaspoon
Summer savory

1
Teaspoon
Dry parsley flakes




Method:

1.      Combine all ingredients together in the bowl of an electric mixer and mix together well. Store in an airtight, DRY container.

This is a wonderful multi-purpose seasoning that can be used with most foods. Okay, here’s the seasoned flour recipe:

SEASONED FLOUR





1. About 2.5 cups:




Qty.
Measure
Item
Other
2.5
Cups
All-purpose flour

1
Tablespoon
Cayenne pepper

1
Tablespoon
White pepper

1.5
Tablespoon
Hungarian paprika

1.5
Teaspoons
Granulated garlic

1
Tablespoon
Kosher salt

2
Teaspoons
Parsley flakes




Method:

1.      Combine all ingredients together and store in an airtight jar, baggie, or whatever else and either keep at room temperature or in your freezer until needed.

It’s important to have a seasoned flour recipe for breading different foods and this is a good one.  You will use this recipe many times. Here’s the Sauce Supreme:

SAUCE SUPREME





Yield: 2.5 cups / mis-en-place: 60 minutes plus:




Qty.
Measure
Item
Other
3/8
Cup
Melted butter

.25
Cup
Sliced button mushrooms
Peeled
3/8
Cup
Minced green bell peppers

.125
Cup
Minced yellow onions

3/8
Cup
Diced pimientos
Patted dry
3/8
Cup
All-purpose flour

1
Cup
Chicken broth
Warm
.5
Cup
Milk
Warm
.5
Cup
Half-n-Half
Warm
.125
Cup
Sherry

1
Each
Bay leaf

3/8
Teaspoon
Kosher salt

.125
Teaspoon
White pepper

.5
Teaspoon
Whole thyme

.0125
Teaspoon
Whole marjoram

.25
Teaspoon
Caper or dill pickle juice

.75
Teaspoon
Freshly minced parsley
Rinsed well



Method:

1.      Use a one-quart saucepot with a heavy-duty bottom sprayed with PAM or some such other food release spray.  Add the butter and place over a medium-flame. Peel the mushrooms by removing the stems and then peeling the outer skins back from the underside and discarding.  By doing this, you will have a snow-white mushroom.  Wash and slice.

2.      Add the mushrooms, bell peppers, and onions and sauté slowly until tender.  Add the pimientos and the flour and combine to form a roux.  Cook over a low flame for several minutes until your roux has cooked a little bit but DON’T darken it.

3.      Raise the temperature to medium-high under the roux and stir it constantly. Combine the chicken broth, milk, and half-and-half in ONE pot and bring to a boil. 

4.      When it is boiling, begin whisking it in bit-by-bit and raise the heat.  Bring it to a low boil and continue whisking—hard.  Add all of the liquid and continue stirring: whisk in the remaining ingredients and continue cooking over a medium-high flame for several minutes, whisking all the while. 

5.      Then, after several minutes have passed, lower the heat to a very low simmer and keep warm.  Allow it to perk over a gentle flame.  Adjust the thickness by adding a little more chicken stock or cream should it be too thick and if too thin, continue cooking over a low flame and allow it to reduce to the proper thickness.

6.      When it’s ready, either use immediately to sauce a dish or keep warm on a steam table until needed.  Usually, we don’t save leftovers of a small amount like this so use it up.  However, if you have made a larger quantity, be sure to cool it in pans no higher than 2” and do so on a cooling rack with a fan blowing on it to cool it down.  Stir occasionally to allow the heat to escape and to retard the formation of skin. 

7.      When it’s totally cool, stir some more and then cover with a piece of wax paper sprayed with PAM or some such other food release spray to prevent formation of a skin in the refrigerator.  Chill.  Don’t save for more than a couple of days.

Sauce Supreme is a Béchamel Sauce that’s been enriched with the addition of cream in the form of half-and-half and vegetables.  This is a classic sauce to know so keep this recipe handy in your cookbooks as you will use it many times over. Many of your classic dishes will call for it in one form or another so be knowledgeable of when to use it and when not to.

As I intimated yesterday, I have had a great time today and as always enjoy my opportunities to write for the Elemental News of the Day. We urge our readership to write to us and leave comments and if there are any of you, who would care to write an article for us, please get in touch via Magnolia Hilltop Brewers, P.O. Box 20669, Bakersfield, CA 93390-0669.  We obviously don’t pay anything but you will be given a full byline and that’s worth its weight in gold.  We want as many people who want to write to be able to do so and we believe that by presenting a forum for our fellow chefs, we are doing something for our beloved industry.  We love diversity and hope to add new and different authors to our pantheon of chefs, food and beverage directors, and culinary professionals.  Come on and join us, it’ll be fun!

Please remember to avoid doing business with AARC Technology in Bakersfield, CA.  These people don’t care about the small customer anymore but instead put all of their attentions onto their corporate customers. It’s sad to not remember why one has the success they do or from where it came.

I’m glad I made it through Labor Day but for me, it’s not really a holiday as I had to work it.  I am glad I was able to do my blogs ahead for your pleasure and then update them just a bit.  We have to be grateful to Google Blogger as without them and their kindness, none of this would be possible.  I hope you had as good a time as I have today! Please leave some comments and/or become a follower and why not spend some money and purchase an album by the Grateful Dead and/or buy a cookbook from Amazon.com.  We are allied with them and are pleased to market their merchandise! See you tomorrow! Bye!    

Thank you!

Goldfish

Goldie “Goldfish” McNamara

ACF, CWC, Cook IV Institutional Chef


This is me back in 1977 when I was working at the Hilton Inn in Bakersfield, CA, on Rosedale Highway. Now, it's the Red Lion Inn but back then, I was the night sous chef and ran the cook's line at the age of 24.

---30---

END Commentary for Tuesday, September 06, 2011 by Chef Goldie “Goldfish” McNamara



Please note that everyone who writes for the Elemental News of the Day is their own person entitled to their own opinions, attitudes, and insanity so does not necessarily speak for all of us.  Thanks, Stinkbug.

REFERENCES:

This original essay was authored by the one-and-only Chef Goldie “Goldfish” McNamara

Recipes created by Chef Goldie “Goldfish” McNamara on July 19, 1986 in Bakersfield, CA.

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