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Friday, August 26, 2011

“Fabulous Bakery Desserts, Pt. XXXIV: Cherries Jubilee—another Classic Dessert created by the Great French Chef, Auguste Escoffier”

It’s a Beautiful Day released their third album, “Choice Quality Stuff/Anytime,” in 1971 and was a combination of two albums: the first featured David LaFlamme but then he got mad and bailed out on the band so another violinist was brought in and the album was concluded.  The adept listener will discern two distinct sounds on the record and in our estimation, it’s a good one.  It’s a hard-rocking album for a psychedelic band and worthwhile to purchase. We therefore urge you to take the handy link to Amazon.com, the world’s largest online retailer and buy it now! You won’t be disappointed! This is definitely a must-have album for all collectors of the psychedelic genre! Thank you, the Elemental News of the Day.


                                                                                 
Here's the countdown to December 21, 2012: from today, we have 483 days to go until the End of Days, the End of Time, Armageddon, and the End of the Mayan Calendar!  Everybody, beware!




                                                                               


                                                   STINKBUG 2011


                                                                          


Chef Murph MacDougal

END Commentary 08-27-2011

Copyright © 2011 by MHB Productions

Word Count: 2,421.



CULINARY POLITICS



ELEMENTALNEWSOFTHEDAY.BLOGSPOT.COM-STINKBUG—THE HEADLINES

Elemental News of the Day Commentary-Opinion-Sports-Foodservice for Saturday, August 27, 2011 by Chef Murph MacDougal

FABULOUS BAKERY DESSERTS, PT. XXXIV

 Fabulous Bakery Desserts, Pt. XXXIV: Cherries Jubilee—another Classic Dessert created by the Great French Chef, Auguste Escoffier

Bakersfield, CA, 08-27-2011 S:  Well, I have one more day to go and I can’t say I’m not pleased.  I am looking forward to going back to the coast to run the kitchen that I run in conjunction with my husband who is over there doing the work of the two of us while I’ve been spending time in Bakersfield.  I like visiting this city but the heat of the summertime can be damn tiring and the lure of the cooler climes of coastal California beckon me constantly.  Sure, it gets hot over in SLO but it also gets cool at night and the coast is not too far away.  I enjoy spending time going up and down it when we have the opportunity and I think like most of the rest of us here at the Elemental News of the Day that Santa Barbara would be the place to live, work, and play if one could afford it.

Our dessert for today is another classic of the “King of Chefs, Chef of Kings,” Auguste Escoffier (1846-1935), the father of modern French cuisine.  Cherries Jubilee is a wonderful dessert, as costly as are the cans of dark sweet cherries that most restaurants use.  Virtually everything else is reasonably priced and can be thrown together relatively fast.  We always use a mixer to combine sauces that use clear gel or cornstarch as it’s a good way to combine the dry ingredients with the liquid at a slow rate while mixing constantly.  Adding the liquid slowly to the dry means the chances for clumps of gel are kept to a minimum as are the chances for a clump of spice—which is always distasteful and unprofessional.  To guarantee that this is so, we utilize a fine-meshed sieve and push the liquid through it and into the saucepot we’re going to use.  To facilitate clean-up and ease of preparation, we always spray the cooking pot with PAM or some such other, non-Olive Oil food release spray.  Olive oil is fine for many things but is not good for making dessert sauces as its taste works against what we’re trying to do.

Cherries Jubilee is typically a flambéed table-side dessert that either the chef or the foodserver will prepare.  Done in darkness, the blue flame of the lit brandy being dribbled over the Cherry Sauce stimulates both the taste buds and the imagination.  Usually big tips ensue and everyone is happy over a low-cost dessert.  Many times, it will be featured on holiday banquets as it’s both beautiful and reasonably priced which makes it a winner in everyone’s book.  I’ve worked in places where we’ve made 1,000 of these desserts for large banquets.  We scoop the ice cream balls out a day in advance and store them in the deep-freeze so they’re hard as rocks.  We make the sauce the day before, too, and heat it up sans the cherries prior to serving time. We keep bottles of brandy on the steam table to stay warm and then when it’s time, the servers place the ice cream balls in champagne glasses on doily-lined plates and load them onto either service trays or serving carts and take them out into the dining room.  The chefs follow with their own serving carts upon which are pots of hot sauce now loaded with cherries and smaller pots with brandy over a camping stove.

Then, the servers surround the chefs with their trays or carts loaded with the glasses and the brandy is ignited.  Then, it is quickly ladled over each dish whilst the servers stick Gaufrettes into each and they’re whisked to the tables with amazing speed. The presentation is fantastic and everyone goes home delighted.  Sure, sometimes the carpet is ignited but when you’re making $50,000 on a banquet (or more), you can afford to repair the carpet! Keep this dessert handy as you will use it many times hence!

CHERRIES JUBILEE





Yield: to serve eight / Mis-en-place: 30-40 minutes.



Qty.
Measure
Item
Other

3
Cups
Canned dark cherries, drained with juice reserved

1-1/3
Cups
Reserved dark cherry juice


2/3
Cup
Orange juice


1-1/3
Cups
Granulated sugar


.25
Teaspoon
Kosher salt


1
Teaspoon
Ground cinnamon


1
Teaspoon
Lemon juice


1
Teaspoon
Almond extract


2
Teaspoons
Cherry syrup


1-1/3
Tablespoons
Clear gel or cornstarch


8
Scoops
Vanilla bean ice cream


.5
Cup
Brandy


8
Each
Cigar wafers




Method:

1.      Make the sauce first by having everything ready.  Have the cherries drained and the juice reserved and if you need to add a little bit of water or additional orange juice, please do so.  Scoop the ice cream and place in your freezer on a sheet pan lined with wax paper.

2.      Combine the cherry and orange juices together and set aside. Combine the granulated sugar, salt, cinnamon, and either the clear gel or the cornstarch in the bowl of an electric mixer equipped with a whip attachment and blend together well. Add the lemon juice, almond extract, and the cherry syrup and then gradually add the juice mixture mixing well as you do so.

3.      Pour the sauce mixture through a fine-meshed sieve into a saucepot that’s been sprayed with PAM or some such other food release spray.  Place over medium-high heat and bring to a boil.  As soon as it is, lower the temp to a low simmer and allow it to perk for a few minutes over a low flame.

4.      Place the brandy in a skillet over a moderate flame and heat up. Place the ice cream balls into champagne glasses and transport to the dinner table on saucers lined with doilies. Add the cherries to the Jubilee sauce and bring out to the table as well and place on a trivet. Ignite the brandy with a match or cigarette lighter, taking care to stand back, and begin ladling the flaming brandy over the jubilee sauce.

5.      Spoon the flambéed Jubilee sauce over the ice cream portions with plenty of cherries over each one.  Insert cigar wafers into each ice cream ball and serve to your guests.  This is a memorable dessert that won’t soon be forgotten.  Leftover Jubilee sauce can be used on entrees such as pork or chicken or can be used for other desserts. 

This is one of the great, old-time classic desserts of French origins but is mostly associated with the culture and cuisine of New Orleans, LA.  Normally, servers will take a transport cart to the diners’ table and will ignite the brandy there.  They will have the Jubilee sauce in a decorative pot over a burner with low flame just to keep it warm and will flambe it there at tableside in total darkness while the diners and other guests at other tables “ooh and ah” with delight.  This dessert usually commands a high price because of its presentation but as far as costs are concerned, it’s not too expensive so it’s mostly profit.

The trick with the brandy is to keep it warm on a steam table but never to get it too hot so as to burn off the alcohol. Always take care when igniting liqueurs so as not to get burned should the flames flare up in your face. Normally, this doesn’t happen but if the cooks get carried away or are mad at the servers, they may really load up the brandy and send flames to the ceiling!

As I said yesterday, I have had a great time today and as always enjoy my opportunities to write for the Elemental News of the Day. We urge our readership to write to us and leave comments and if there are any of you, who would care to write an article for us, please get in touch via Magnolia Hilltop Brewers, P.O. Box 20669, Bakersfield, CA 93390-0669.  We obviously don’t pay anything but you will be given a full byline and that’s worth its weight in gold.  We want as many people who want to write to be able to do so and we believe that by presenting a forum for our fellow chefs, we are doing something for our beloved industry.  We love diversity and hope to add new and different authors to our pantheon of chefs, food and beverage directors, and culinary professionals.  Come on and join us, it’ll be fun!

Please remember to avoid doing business with AARC Technology in Bakersfield, CA.  These people don’t care about the small customer anymore but instead put all of their attentions onto their corporate customers. It’s sad to not remember why one has the success they do or from where it came.

I had a wonderful time today and will return tomorrow for one more extravagant day and then good old Chef James “JT” Tobiason will come in Monday morning, August 29, 2011 and do his thing for a week. You never have any idea what the guys will do but the gals always favor good food and good stories.  Why not spend some money and purchase an It’s a Beautiful Day album and/or buy a cookbook from Amazon.com.  We are allied with them and are pleased to market their merchandise! See you tomorrow! Bye!    

Thank you, my friends!

Murph MacDougal

Murph MacDougal

Certified Club Manager, ACF Member, Foodserver/Bartender and professional Chef and Baker

_______________________________________________________________________

This is a picture of me when I was a young chef in the kitchen back in 1975. I apprenticed underneath my father and spent six years working for him in his British-Irish Restaurant in Fresno, California. I later moved to Frazier Park, California, and spent quite a few years working in the area and that's where I met Stinkbug. Anyhow, I am now working at a country club over on the coast near San Luis Obispo.

---30---

END Commentary for Saturday, August 27, 2011 by Chef Murph MacDougal



Please note that everyone who writes for the Elemental News of the Day is their own person entitled to their own opinions, attitudes, and insanity so does not necessarily speak for all of us.  Thanks, Stinkbug.

REFERENCES:

This original essay was authored by the one-and-only Chef Murph MacDougal

Recipes created by Chef Murph MacDougal on May 02, 1978 in Fresno, CA.

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          THE STINKY ONE


                                                                                    
                                                                                                                                                            
This is #1305, an 11” x 14" original oil painting by Beverly Carrick entitled, “Women’s Club." It's among her more beautiful works and is available for sale. You can see much more of her work at her Website, located at http://www.beverlycarrick.com or at Brian Carrick's Facebook page. At her Website, you will see not only more original oil paintings but also lithographs, giclees, prints, miniatures, photographs, and even her award-winning instructional video entitled, "Painting the Southwest with Beverly Carrick." Beverly has been painting for more than 60 years and is known around the world. Her work hangs in private and public galleries and is followed by a great many fans that circle the globe. We urge you to go to her Website NOW and view her work. It's possible that you will find something you like and will want to buy it for yourself, a friend, a loved one, or a neighbor! You will not be disappointed so please: do yourself a favor and go there IMMEDIATELY! Thank you, the Elemental News of the Day!

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