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Thursday, May 26, 2011

“Kitchen Nobility—the Saucier, Pt. XI”


                                     
The Youngbloods’ fifth album, “Best of the Youngbloods,” saw the band put out their second compilation album (1970’s “Two Trips” was their first but it’s only available on vinyl and we try to stay away from vinyl) and it was a very good one although it didn’t break any records either. If you want to get a bunch of the best material from the early albums this is the one with which to do it.  So, do us the favor by taking the convenient link to Amazon.com and buy this stellar album; you won’t be disappointed!  Thanks, the Elemental News of the Day.

                                                                    

Here's the countdown to December 21, 2012: from today, we have 575 days to go until the End of Days, the End of Time, Armageddon, and the End of the Mayan Calendar!  Everybody, beware!


                                                                                         




                                                   STINKBUG 2011



                                                                                     

Stinkbug

END Commentary 05-27-2011

Copyright © 2011 by MHB Productions

Word Count: 2,802.

CULINARY POLITICS



ELEMENTALNEWSOFTHEDAY.BLOGSPOT.COM-STINKBUG—THE HEADLINES

Elemental News of the Day Commentary-Opinion-Sports-Foodservice for Friday, May 27, 2011 by Charles “the Chuckster” Smithenstein

KITCHEN NOBILITY—THE SAUCIER, PT. XI

Kitchen Nobility—the Saucier, Pt. XI

Bakersfield, CA, 05-27-2011 F:  Well, today the vacation came to an end and our bus motored down 19th Street in Bakersfield and we pulled up outside the Mint.  The Mint is one of the oldest bars in this city and has been a fixture on Skid Row for as long as I can remember.  Nineteenth Street is a fairly nice street except for a block or two.  There, there’s a porno theater that once was the Cinema 19, a couple of bars—Ernie’s and the Mint—there used to be the Mission Bar in the hotel of the same name but that bar is long gone—and innumerable pawn shops.  Once long ago, Stinkbug went to Ernie’s with Chef Robert Creech from Zingo’s Café in 1980 to have a drink with the whores and the bums and ended up getting beaten up.  What happened you ask? Well, this is what happened:

The two of them strolled into Ernie’s on a Saturday night and sat down at the bar.  Both asked for drinks and a crowd gathered around them while the bartender—standing across the bar—leaned over them like a vulture smelling dead meat.  Someone said, “is it them?” Another answered in the affirmative and before they knew it, the crowd gathered them up and hustled them out into the center of Nineteenth Street pushing and shoving them.  Both Stinky and Chef Creech asked what the hell was wrong and they were told to shut up as they were buffeted with blows and thrown down and picked up only to be thrown down again.  Stinky was telling Creech to “shut up” but Chef Creech was determined to protest their treatment at the hands of the mob for whatever reason they were persecuting them.  No one would talk except to say that Creech and Stinky were lucky they weren’t going to be killed.

Both men were jostled into Stinkbug’s green Ford Pinto, a 1974 model that was being rocked and shoved.  Stinkbug’s window was open and while Chef Creech was still protesting vehemently, the bartender—who stood about six feet tall—dropped a punch from above and shattered Stinkbug’s nose.  Blood sprayed across the interior of the car and Chef Creech still argued and protested while Stinky asked him to be quiet so as to not get them both killed.  Blood was everywhere and the mob was in frenzy, someone wanted to burn the car and torch the victims but Stinkbug had the wherewithal to fire up the motor and back the car out through the frenzied crowd.  They were able to drive slowly down the road all the while beer bottles rained down upon the poor Pinto. By the time they got to the hospital so Stinkbug could get his nose repaired, they had no idea what the hell had just happened. Nor do they know to this day.

So, it would appear that the Twilight Zone had just filmed an episode; it was unexplainable but apparently quite a normal thing to have happen on Bakersfield’s Skid Row.  We still go there to this day in search of the bartender and the scum of the area who beat up our good friends.  If we ever find them, we will beat them all within an inch of their lives. Nowadays, we are treated with respect whenever we visit the area but should we ever find that bartender, well, he will end up at the bottom of the Kern River at the start of the spring so his body won’t be found until the end of the summer when the water all dries up.  There is no excuse for a bunch of HIV-addled alcoholics to misbehave in this manner but in Bakersfield, it’s a common occurrence!

Well, today, we are here to make some more sauces and like always, we have a bunch of good ones with which to dazzle and to amaze you. Most of the sauces we’re getting into now are ones that are used with either game or with seafood and are tasty and easy to make.  This is what makes a chef: anyone can cook meat, fish, or poultry; what they can’t do is to come up with 100 different ways to use the same item: this is what makes a chef!  In effect, the Saucier is one of the most skilled positions in any kitchen that has the good sense to maintain one on their staff.  In the large hotels and swanky country clubs, this is an extremely important position that is revered and respected.   If you or your son or daughter aspires to do this professionally, you should give them the encouragement they so deserve.  It’s as good as being a sommelier.

The next sauce is one that we used for game birds at Stockdale Country Club because it was rich, flavorful, and temptingly sweet and fueled by brandy. This sauce is marvelous with quail, partridge, and other game birds as well as squab and duck. Try this one, you’ll love it:

(#327) DANOISIE SAUCE

(Pronounced “dan-WAH-Z”)

Yield:     about 5  cups___

About  45 to 50 minutes:

Qty.
Measure
Item
6
Cups
Chicken and/or veal broth

     1. Have stock medium-hot on stove. Then, begin to sauté the following together:

Qty.
Measure
Item
.25
Cup
Melted butter
.75
Cup
Minced white onions
.75
Teaspoon
Kosher salt
.25
Teaspoon
White pepper

     2. Sauté until the onions is translucent; then blend in following:

Qty.
Measure
Item
5/8
Cup
All-purpose flour

     3. Sauté until you has a blonde roux, stirring all the while. Then, begin blending in the stock, slowly so you don’t have any lumps. Allow the sauce to simmer a few minutes and then add:

Qty.
Measure
Item
.125
Cup
White wine
.125
Cup
Welch’s grape jelly
.5
Cup
Reduced heavy cream
.125
Cup
Brandy

     4. Allow sauce to come to a high simmer and then lower to lowest flame and allow it to “percolate” for 10-15 minutes. Then keep warm if using and if not, chill below 45 F as fast as possible.

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     The next several sauces are ones that really come off the banquet line rather than the cooks’ line. Very seldom do we have the larger quantities that we have here because if we were making it to order, we would make the sauce to order such as the following classic dish:

(#328) SAUCE PICATTA

Yield:       4-1/2  c__________

About 35 to 45 minutes:

Qty.
Measure
Item
1
Quart
Chicken broth
.25
Cup
Marsala wine
.25
Cup
Lemon juice
.75
Teaspoon
Green peppercorns with juice
1.5
Teaspoons
Minced garlic
.5
Teaspoon
Tarragon

     1. Combine the preceding in a pot and have it over medium heat.

     2. Meanwhile, sauté the following in the MB:

Qty.
Measure
Item
.25
Cup
Melted butter
1-1/3
Tablespoons
Minced yellow onions
1
Teaspoon
Kosher salt
3/8
Teaspoon
White pepper

     3. Sauté until onions is tender and then blends in the following amount of flour to make the roux:

Qty.
Measure
Item
.25
Cup
All-purpose flour

     4. Sauté until roux has formed. Combine with the liquid as in the preceding recipes. Then, blend in the following to finish it off:

Qty.
Measure
Item
.75
Teaspoon
Freshly minced parsley
1.5
Tablespoons
Minced chives
1
Cup
Sliced mushrooms

     5. Allow sauce to approach a high simmer, then lower heat to minimum and let it simmer for awhile. If too thin, tighten with a little lie. Use or store as directed in preceding recipes.

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     The next sauce as I’ve already explained is something that a line cooks would most likely make as he goes; however, for the uninitiated, it’s always good to have a lesson. The larger quantity would be for a banquet, obviously:

(#329) CURRY SAUCE

Yield:     1-1/2   Q___

About 35 to 45 minutes:

Qty.
Measure
Item
2
Cups
Coconut milk
2
Cups
Chicken broth
.25
Cup
Sherry

     1. Combine above in a pot and place over medium-high heat.

     2. In the meantime, sauté the following in the melted butter measure:

Qty.
Measure
Item
.25
Cup
Melted butter
2.5
Teaspoons
Curry powder
.75
Teaspoon
Turmeric
1
Teaspoon
Kosher salt
3/8
Teaspoon
White pepper
.25
Teaspoon
Ground coriander
.75
Teaspoon
Minced garlic
1
Pinch
Crushed hot chilis

     3. Blend in the following and form a roux:

Qty.
Measure
Item
3/8
Cup
All-purpose flour

     4. Cook the roux to the blond state and then begin incorporating the liquid. When all done, bring the pot up to medium-high flame and when it’s at a simmer, keep there for 2-3 minutes and then, lower the flame to bare minimum and add the following:

Qty.
Measure
Item
1.5
Teaspoons
Lemon juice
1.5
Cups
Diced tomatoes rinsed and patted dry
1
Each
Bay leaf

     Allow sauce to simmer for 20 minutes or so to develop flavor and then proceed as I’ve outlined in previous recipes in this chapter.

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     When we think of the Old South, Creole and Cajun cookery springs to mind. The great Chef Paul Prudhomme brought that cookery to our attention in the Eighties and it became imperative that every chef worth his salt in the kitchen had a good one and here’s mine:

(#330) CREOLE SAUCE

Yield:     4-1/2   c___

About 1-1/2 hours:

POT #1:

Qty.
Measure
Item
1.75
Cups
Chicken broth
1.5
Cups
Diced tomatoes with juice run through a meat grinder using a medium ring so they’re coarse ground or through a food mill. You can also use a Cuisinart.
1.5
Cups
Catsup
1
Each
Bay leaf
2
Cups
Sliced mushrooms
1.5
Teaspoons
Whole pickling spice
3/8
Teaspoon
Ground cumin
1.5
Teaspoons
Gumbo file

     1. Combine the above ingredients in a sauce pot and place over medium heat.

     2. Then, in a second pot, sauté the following in the oo until tender but not mushy:

POT #2:

Qty.
Measure
Item
2
Tablespoons
Olive oil
.5
Cup
Julienned yellow bell peppers (stemmed, seeded, de-ribbed)
1
Cup
Julienned red bell peppers (stemmed, seeded, de-ribbed)
1
Cup
Julienned green bell peppers (stemmed, seeded, de-ribbed)
.5
Cup
Julienned yellow onions
2
Tablespoons
Minced shallots
1
Tablespoon
Minced garlic
1
Tablespoon
Hungarian paprika
.75
Teaspoon
Kosher salt
.5
Teaspoon
White pepper
1
Tablespoon
Whole oregano
1
Tablespoon
Whole marjoram
.75
Teaspoon
Tabasco sauce
.75
Teaspoon
Worcestershire sauce
.75
Teaspoon
Cayenne pepper
.5
Teaspoon
Whole thyme

        3. Cook till veggies are slightly tender. Then, combine the two pots together and add:

Qty.
Measure
Item
.25
Cup
White wine

     Simmer for 10 minutes over low flame then remove and either keep warm for service or chill below 45 F for use later.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

     For awhile, everyone was going nuts over red zinfandel sauces so here is mine, created while I was working at good ol’ SCC:

(#331) RED ZINFANDEL SAUCE

Yield:        about  3 c

About 30 minutes:

Qty.
Measure
Item
2
Cups
Chicken broth
1.5
Cups
Red zinfandel
.75
Teaspoon
Whole thyme
1
Each
Bay leaf
1.5
Teaspoons
Caper juice

     1. Combine the above in a sauce pot and place over medium-high heat.

     2. In another pot, sauté the following together:

Qty.
Measure
Item
.25
Cup
Melted butter
.75
Teaspoon
Minced garlic
2
Tablespoons
Minced shallots
.5
Teaspoon
Kosher salt
.25
Teaspoon
Black pepper
.75
Teaspoon
Whole thyme
.25
Cup
All-purpose flour

     3. With the exception of the last ingredient, sauté everything in the butter until aromatic; then, blend in the APF to make a roux and cook several minutes until the blond stage has been met. Then, gradually pour the liquid in from the other pot. Take care that you do it slowly so as not cause any lumps.

     4. Pour the sauce through a chinois and return to stove. Bring to a high heat and keep there for 2-3 minutes and then, lower flame to minimum and simmer 15-20 minutes. Readjust flavor as necessary. Use or store as outlined in other recipes.

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     The Portuguese are big-time fish eaters being a nation obviously on the water. The next recipe is one that goes well with fish dishes:

(#332) SAUCE PORTUGAIS

Yield:       about 2-1/2  c___

About 35 to 40 minutes:

Qty.
Measure
Item
1
Cup
Fish broth
1
Cup
Milk
1.5
Teaspoons
Lemon juice
.25
Cup
White wine

     1. Combine the above in a sauce pot and place over medium heat.

     2. In another pot, sauté the following:

Qty.
Measure
Item
.25
Cup
Melted butter
.75
Teaspoon
Granulated onion
.25
Teaspoon
Whole thyme
.5
Teaspoon
Kosher salt
.125
Teaspoon
White pepper
.5
Cup
Minced garlic

     3. When distinguishingly aromatic` and delicious to the nose, combine the two pots together in a slow, deliberate way so as not to create lumps of flour, roux, or spice. Then, either use or store using the methods I’ve outlined for you.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------



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Well, I think that will be all for today.  We have to get back to the business of drinking and looking for our illusive bartender and his flash mob.  The 1970’s and early 1980’s were a time of trouble in Greater Bakersfield as many lowlife inhabitants populated the lower-income areas of our city.   It’s only been in the past two decades that the city fathers felt the need to repair and uplift the downtown area so that we could compete with Fresno, our large neighbor a county or two farther north. We at the lower end of the Southern San Joaquin Valley have existed with a stigma for many years that has been totally undeserved and unfair and now, we are becoming modernized.

Tomorrow, we’ll be back and will continue with our Saucier recipes, courtesy of Stinkbug who is the person who fabricated all of these gourmet sauces over his thirty-plus year foodservice career! See you tomorrow!

Thank you!

Charles “the Chuckster” Smithenstein

The Chuckster
Restaurant Manager, Mixologist, Foodserver



---30---

END Commentary for Friday, May 27, 2011 by Charles “the Chuckster” Smithenstein

Please note that everyone who writes for the Elemental News of the Day is their own person entitled to their own opinions, attitudes, and insanity so does not necessarily speak for all of us.  Thanks, Stinkbug.

REFERENCES:

This original essay was authored by the one-and-only Chuckster.

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          EL PESTOSO MALO


                                                                               
                                                                          
This is #1224, a 12” x 16" original oil painting by Beverly Carrick entitled, "Coastal Gulls." It's among her more beautiful works and is available for sale. You can see much more of her work at her Website, located at http://www.beverlycarrick.com or at Brian Carrick's Facebook page. At her Website, you will see not only more original oil paintings but also lithographs, giclees, prints, miniatures, photographs, and even her award-winning instructional video entitled, "Painting the Southwest with Beverly Carrick." Beverly has been painting for more than 60 years and is known around the world. Her work hangs in private and public galleries and is followed by a great many fans that circle the globe. We urge you to go to her Website NOW and view her work. It's possible that you will find something you like and will want to buy it for yourself, a friend, a loved one, or a neighbor! You will not be disappointed so please: do yourself a favor and go there IMMEDIATELY! Thank you, the Elemental News of the Day!

Web Pictures I

     This is a photo of Brian Carrick behind his Rodgers' Drums on 05-13-1977 at a gig here in Bakersfield, CA, with the Magnolia Hilltop Brewers. 

 This is a photo of the Magnolia Hilltop Brewers onstage on 09-17-1976 at Foothill High School in Bakersfield, California. On guitar is Randall Kyles and Brian Carrick is on the drums. 

This is a photo of Randall Kyles on 10-01-1976 at a rehearsal of the Magnolia Hilltop Brewers at Shamrock in Bakersfield, CA. 

    This is a shot of MHB bassist, Victor Gaona onstage on 05-28-1977 somewhere in Kern County. 

                                                                     
This is a shot of Vernon McMahon (left) and a friend on 05-28-1977 at the same gig. Vernon was a great singer and guitarist.

                                                                         
 This is Executive Chef Robert Davis of the Arnie's Restaurant in Mukilteo, WA in 1997. He was one of the best chefs I ever worked with.

















































                                                                               



                                                                                
Magnolia Hilltop Brewers and What's Cookin' Productions Trademark of Quality and Symbol of Integrity. Copyright 04-26-2011, all rights reserved. No unauthorized reproductions of any of this material are permissible unless granted by written permission. Thank you, the Elemental News of the Day.


















                                                                                 


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