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Wednesday, May 18, 2011

“Kitchen Nobility—the Saucier, Pt. III”



The “Jefferson Starship” CD we are offering today is their twenty-second release (2001), “Across the Sea of Suns.”  Another live CD, this one was a double CD that featured some of their best material and the band’s standard line-up featuring Paul Kantner, Marty Balin, and Jack Cassady augmented by newer and younger members such as renowned vocalist, Dana Magano. So, be sure to take the convenient link to Amazon.com and buy this excellent album as you won’t be disappointed!  Thanks, the Elemental News of the Day.

Here's the countdown to December 21, 2012: from today, we have 583 days to go until the End of Days, the End of Time, Armageddon, and the End of the Mayan Calendar!  Everybody, beware!



                                                                        



                                                   STINKBUG 2011




                                                                   



Stinkbug
END Commentary 05-19-2011
Copyright © 2011 by MHB Productions
Word Count: 3,000
CULINARY POLITICS

ELEMENTALNEWSOFTHEDAY.BLOGSPOT.COM-STINKBUG—THE HEADLINES
Elemental News of the Day Commentary-Opinion-Sports-Foodservice for Thursday, May 19, 2011 by Stinkbug
KITCHEN NOBILITY—THE SAUCIER, PT. III
Kitchen Nobility—the Saucier, Pt. III
Bakersfield, CA, 05-19-2011 Th:  We hit the road for McKittrick early this morning and arrived in the town in an hour or so as our tour bus was burning up the miles rather quickly.  The bus driver is the only sober individual aboard the streamliner and that’s good as the rest of us are rather inundated with liquor.  But hey, we’re all restaurant people and that means we have the ability to drink, think, and not stink as we go about our daily lives.  McKittrick still looks the same as it did in the 1970’s and the 1980’s when we used to pass through here going from one town to another, generally in the dead of night. The hotel was a welcome sight and we went in and sat down and had a large breakfast before hitting the bars. 
Here in western Kern County, the effects of NO water coming to the farmlands is depressing as unemployment is high and people are at wit’s end as they try to survive.  It’s a shame that politics has ruined the nation’s ability to feed itself but that is how it is in modern times.   People need both jobs and food on the table but farmland sits idle and the workers sit in bars drinking up their welfare checks.  It is high time that America returned to its former status as the world’s superpower and not a welfare state as its become in the past several decades thanks to mismanagement by both Republicans and Democrats.
Well, I didn’t mean to get into a political spiel here, my friends, not when we’re talking sauces.  We want to learn the techniques of the sauce-maker and that takes time. Right now, we are having a wonderful time living it up in McKittrick, eating and drinking to the max while avoiding the hell that awaits us back home in Depression-era Bakersfield.  I tell you, the 2012 elections cannot come too fast, amigos, because if we don’t start voting these bastards out of office, there won’t be an America worth having, let me tell you! Do you think that it’s right to keep extending unemployment and making it the new welfare? That’s what it’s going to become and yet, that is what the government wants to do! Rather than allow businesses to create jobs by lowering taxes, it is going to raise taxes which is a surefire way to kill jobs! What the hell is becoming of the United States? Do we want to be socialists? Hell, NO! We need to look at our shared past here in Kern County—they were once working while now we’re going down the tubes!
Enough of that! Let’s continue with our series on sauces, shall we? 
We will begin our study of the major sauces by tackling the Veal Demi. The demi is basically made (recipe #209) from bones that are low-roasted in the oven and then covered with cold water which is poured off and discarded. Flavor is achieved when the excess fat and meat trim are sautéed in a skillet or a Tilt-a-Skillet to release more flavor. Then, the bones are introduced to this and rapidly boiled for a short period, 45 minutes or so.
     Afterwards they’re transferred to a pot or a steam jacket and cover with additional water. All scrapings are scraped into the pot for color and flavor and mirepoix vegetables are added. In this case, whole vegetables are tied together with herbs (celery-onion-carrot-leek-parsley-bay leaf-thyme-and- rosemary) and added to the pot. Note: if you’re making a small batch, cut the veggies up.
     Bring the pot to the highest simmer and then lower the heat to the barest minimum and allow it gently simmer for 24 hours or so. The next day, remove as much clear oil from the top that you can and then pour the demi stock through a double chinois outfitted with a towel in between. Strain it again through cheese cloth and transfer to your sink so you can fill ice in and around the buckets. It is important to bring the stock down below 45 F as quickly as possible. When it is, refrigerate.
     The next day, it’s just as I described it: like a geological landscape where you can see all of the formations. Skim the fat from the top (but you could save it in the freezer for use in BBQ sauce #6 if you so desire). Pour the bucket that has just had the fat removed and you’ll be surprised- it’s homogenous. So, take out what you need for the days usage and place over a medium burner and allow coming to a fairly high simmer (BUT NEVER BOIL!) and keeping there for 5 minutes. Then lower to moderate low and let it reduce.
     You’ll see the light-dark brown of what the uneducated would say, “Look, Ma, French’s brown gravy, yuck, yuck!” but this is the farthest thing from the truth even though French’s makes a fine product. Now, tighten ever so lightly with lie, whisking it in, slowly as you go, tightening ever so as it should be velvety when poured over a slice of cooked meat on a plate. It should HIGH-LIGHT and not smothers the dish.
     Then, turn the flame off and add a sprig of rosemary and a couple of sprigs of thyme and let it sit, undisturbed, for 10 minutes. Then, utilize the double chinois method through a towel and then cheesecloth. Use a ladle by pushing it down into the cone of the chinois to force it through... now; we’re ready to learn the sauces that are derived from this basic “Espagnole” or “pre-demi”, whichever you prefer.
     According to the French masters, brown sauces need at least 2 hours simmering time to develop full flavor. Use a brown roux or cornstarch to thicken. So, the Mother of ALL French sauces is “Espagnole” or basic brown sauce which in turn becomes demi glace which in turn can be turned into the following variations:
     Note, too, that these aren’t actual recipes but are ideas that you can turn into something you can use. All you need is the knowledge of the ingredients and you can make your own sauces.
     One hint I definitely need to share with you: when making a roux-based sauce, be sure that the liquid going into it is almost at a boil; then, when you’re ready to incorporate it, do so a bit at a time instead of all at once. In this way, you can protect yourself from getting that sinister of all evils, L - U - M - P - S in your sauce! If that happens, you’ve failed because you’ve wasted time as well as product.
(#253) SAUCE BRUNE
     Sauce Brune is a demi glace thickened with a little blond roux and tomato paste and seasoned and spiced with your Standard sachet d’espices (recipe #205). Allow it to simmer so that the flavor is blended and the roux is absorbed. Sauce Brune is a good jumping off point for a variety of meats.
(#254) SAUCE RAGOUT
     Sauté your mirepoix (recipe #202) with chopped chicken giblets and then tighten moderately so with flour. Cook this roux about 10-15 minutes over low flame, stirring frequently. Then, pour in hot demi whisking all the while until you have a velvety sauce. Simmer about 20 minutes then strain through a chinois.
Finish it off with a little dry white or red wine and serve with game dishes.
     The next dish is one of the true classics:
(#255) SAUCE POIVARDE
     Sauce Poivarde is a sauce basically used for game. The sauce incorporates the marinade from the meat and is highly seasoned with black pepper.
(#256) SAUCE VENAISON:
     Sauce Venaison is one step up from poivarde; Sauce Venaison is made on a 50-50 basis with red currant jelly. Just before serving, add reduced heavy cream on a 25% basis. This sauce is used for wild game such as elk and vinaison. The cream blends exceptionally well with the demi while the jelly adds a sweet-and-sour effect,
(#257) JUS LIE
     Ju Lie (“pronounced “joo-lee-aay”) is the official term for a demi thickened with cornstarch rather than a brown roux.
(#258) SAUCE DIABLE
     Sauce Diable is a powerful sauce built upon a flavorful but powerful demi. You can either build this on a demi tightened with a brown roux with the vegetable items sautéed in the fat or blended in a demi tightened with a lie. Either sauté minced shallots and minced green onions in the fat before adding flour or just add them into the demi along with dry white wine, black pepper, cayenne pepper or fresh green herbs depending upon the dish you’re serving (thyme for chicken, oregano and rosemary for Italian, etc.). Before serving, strain the sauce through a chinois lined with a paper towel and again through one lined with cheese cloth.
     The next sauce is built upon a Sauce Diable:
(#259) SAUCE PIQUANTE
     Add to a flavorful Sauce Diable, minced gherkin pickles and capers. Don’t strain.
(#260) SAUCE ROBERT (PRONOUNCED “RO-BEAR”)
     Sauce Robert is a demi tightened with a dark roux. Use the deglazed pan juices of the meat you’re cooking to sauté minced brown onions in and then combine with the APF and cook until well-browned. Add hot demi stock (Espagnole) a bit at a time to create a smooth, velvety demi. Cook for awhile as the flavor develops and then blend in Dijon mustard until it has a delicious mustardy flavor.
(#251) SAUCE BRUNE AUX FINES HERBES
     An Espagnole is tightened with lie or roux to which herbs such as parsley, basil, chervil, rosemary, oregano, or tarragon.
(#262) SAUCE BRUNE a l’ESTRAGON
     An Espagnole is tightened with lie after having been reduced to increase flavor. A skillet is placed over medium flame and allowed to heat. To it when it’s hot, toss in a sprig or two of whole tarragon and toss it around to get the flavor out of it. That, having been done, is added to the demi which is pulled from the fire and allowed to rest 20 minutes. When sauce tastes as you like it, strain the herbs out.
(#263) SAUCE BRUNE AU CARI
     Sauce Espagnole is tightened w/ lie and flavored w/ sautéed brown onions, curry powder, and lemon juice. The curried demi should be kind of tangy unless you prefer it to be less so. This sauce goes well with beef, veal, and poultry
(#264) SAUCE CARI a l’TAHITI:
     This sauce is a Sauce Brune au Cari with reduced coconut milk blended in on a 75/25 ratio of sauce to milk. Use this sauce to flavor wild island game such as the wild pigs that live on many of the Pacific islands.
(#265) SAUCE BRUNE d’DUXELLES:
     Essentially what this sauce is a brown mushroom sauce flavored tomato paste and green herbs of choice. It is fit for any cut of beef, veal, or chicken.
(#266) SAUCE CHASSUER
     Sauce Chasseur is built upon the preceding sauce with the added ingredients being fresh tomatoes and minced garlic as well as more fresh herbs of choice.
(#267) SAUCE MADERE
     Sauce Madere is a Sauce Brune flavored with Madeira wine sherry.
(#268) SAUCE AU PORTO
     Sauce au Porto is a brown port wine sauce.
(#269) SAUCE PERIGUEAUX
     Sauce Perigueux is a brown Madeira wine sauce flavored with truffles.
(#270) SAUCE a l’ITALIENE
    This sauce is a sauce brune flavored with ham, mushrooms and truffles.
(#271) SAUCE BORDELAISE
     Bordelaise sauce is a full-bodied, red wine demi-glace with poached beef marrow blended in (this is the official way) but back in the day when I was a young cook, every chef in Bakersfield interpreted this sauce to be a sauce brune or worse, yet, a sauce made from beef drippings which more-or-less made it gravy with the addition of mushrooms, green onions, garlic, shallots and quite possibly diced red pimiento thrown in. But we know better than this, don’t we?
(#272) SAUCE a l’ORANGE
     This is a brown sauce with OZ, OJ, Gran Marnier, coivoissier or even triple sec used for flavoring. It’s best if you ignite the alcohol, burn half of it off and pour the rest of it into the sauce.
(#273) SAUCE BOURGUIGNONNE
     This is a red wine sauce that is always accompanied by a garniture of bacon, mushrooms, and green onions. Unfortunately for those of us in the know, the term “Beef Bourguignonne” is a catch-all in the business that allows us to throw all of our leftovers from the weekend and cover them with brown gravy for Monday’s lunch special. If you don’t believe me, start checking out the menus at Basque or French restaurants on that aforementioned day.
(#274) PROFESSIONAL DEMI-GLACE
     Not to insult any of the great people I’ve worked for or may work for ever again, PROFESSIONAL DEMI-GLACE is made in part from ESPAGNOLE in the following manner: 50/50 Espagnole/superior beef stock (consommé quality) reduced by half over low flame. To 4 c of finished demi, add 1/2 cup dry sack sherry and tighten with lie preferably after allowing it to sit on a back burner in order to let the flavors intensify yet harmoniously blend. It’s sort of like French food endowed with a Chinese philosophy.
(#275) PEPPER SAUCE
This sauce is designed for those who use an instant product but would like to upgrade it to some extent:
Yield:  2 gallons/ about 30 minutes’ preparation time:

Qty.
Measure
Item
1
Gallon
Prepared au jus
3
Quarts
Boiling hot water
2
Cups
Burgundy wine
.25
Tablespoon
Whole thyme
1
Tablespoon
Ground black pepper
1
Teaspoon
Tabasco sauce
.25
Cup
Worcestershire sauce
2
Each
Bay leaves
1
Can
Knorr-Swiss demi-glace mix

Method:
     1. Combine all ingredients in bowl of an electric mixer and mix on low speed until well-blended. Then, pour through a sieve into a pot large enough to comfortably hold the quantity. Force through any pieces of un-blended sauce mix.
     2. Bring up to and maintain at a boil, whisking constantly, for 2 minutes. Never stop because the bottom can SCORCH rapidly! Then pour through a chinois into a bucket and bring down to below 45 F as fast as possible; then, refrigerate using only what you need on a daily basis.
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Alright, this is where we’ll leave off for today and tomorrow, we’ll pick back up with some more of the basic sauces.  All of these sauces are what any aspiring cook should know how to prepare as they’ll show that you have researched information on your own and are worthy of employment. Success in the culinary world is dependent upon hard work, education, and experience and when I was a young cook, I did my best to learn everything that I could so I could impress the head chefs who were my employers.  Foodservice is a profession in which qualified people can always find a job and this is important in a world that is beset by an administration like the present one.  The leftist idea of success is based upon ripping the population off in order to provide benefits to those who don’t deserve them.  The Romans had several classes of landless peasants called the “Head Count” as they were little more than rabble that had to be fed in order to keep them from rioting and killing the upper crust of society. The Obama government wants to elevate his head count while hammering the Middle Class. Something is definitely not the right way to help society. Hell, McKittrick is looking better every day as is everywhere else we’ve visited here in Kern County. What is happening to the United States?
Thank you!
Stinky
Stinkbug
American Bakers’ Association, ACF, CWC

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END Commentary for Thursday, May 19, 2011 by “Stinkbug
Please note that everyone who writes for the Elemental News of the Day is their own person entitled to their own opinions, attitudes, and insanity so does not necessarily speak for all of us.  Thanks, Stinkbug.
REFERENCES:
This original essay was written by the one-and-only Stinkbug.
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This is #1197, a 20” x 16" original oil painting by Beverly Carrick entitled, "Fancy That!" It's among her more beautiful works and is available for sale. You can see much more of her work at her Website, located at http://www.beverlycarrick.com or at Brian Carrick's Facebook page. At her Website, you will see not only more original oil paintings but also lithographs, giclees, prints, miniatures, photographs, and even her award-winning instructional video entitled, "Painting the Southwest with Beverly Carrick." Beverly has been painting for more than 60 years and is known around the world. Her work hangs in private and public galleries and is followed by a great many fans that circle the globe. We urge you to go to her Website NOW and view her work. It's possible that you will find something you like and will want to buy it for yourself, a friend, a loved one, or a neighbor! You will not be disappointed so please: do yourself a favor and go there IMMEDIATELY! Thank you, the Elemental News of the Day!
Web Pictures I

   This is a shot of the train station at the Miramar Hotel in Santa Barbara, California, one of the most beautiful resorts in the entire world. This is a place the Magnolia Hilltop Brewers used to come in the 1970's to vacation and later Chef Stinkbug brought his second wife and family here, too. 

This is a photo of drummer, Brian Carrick, behind his Rodgers Drum Kit on 01-13-1977 at a band rehearsal at Shamrock, in Bakersfield, California. The Magnolia Hilltop Brewers used to rehearse here from 1973-1979 before they disbanded and went their separate ways.

This is a photo of a bottle of booze on a table at a gig on 04-23-1977. Wherever we went, the bar went with us!

This is a photo of bassist Victor Gaona and guitarist Gerry Kleier doing the duckwalk at a MHB rehearsal at Shamrock on 09-12-1977.

   This is a shot of the Magnolia Hilltop Brewers on 01-01-1977 after arriving home from their annual New Year's Eve gig. Seated at the table is guitarist Randall Kyles, drummer Brian Carrick, and bassist Victor Gaona.

This is a shot of guitarist Randall Kyles live onstage on 04-09-1976 playing lead on one of the band's many songs. A great performer, he never failed to amaze the crowds with his prowess.

This is a shot of bassist Victor Gaona at the same gig on 04-09-1976 at Maricopa, California, one of the worst towns in all of Kern County for crooked cops, speed traps, and racism. Nevertheless, we always had great gigs there!


This is a shot of one of Brian Carrick's famed Carrot Cakes at the Stockdale Country Club in 1989.                                                                          
                                                                       
                                                                          
                                                                         
                                                                
                                                                                                                                         









































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