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Thursday, December 2, 2010

“Yeast Bread Seminar, Part IV: Stinkbug’s Bread Seminar, #4—more exciting Bread Seminar News plus a White Boy learns to cook Soul Food in 2001!” by Chef Stinkbug



Today’s Flamin’ Groovies album is their ninth release, “Flamin’ Groovies Now!” which came out in April 1976 and continued the tradition of this erstwhile band of San Francisco rockers.  Always sort of styled after the Beatles’ early albums, this one may look familiar and is worthy of purchase. This is one of the great bands of the greatest era of ROCK-and-ROLL so please go to Amazon.com right now and BUY it by using the convenient link!





COUNTDOWN TO THE END OF THE MAYAN CALENDAR



Here is the countdown to December 21, 2012: from today, we have 740 days to go until the End of Days, the End of Time, Armageddon, and the End of the Mayan Calendar!  Everybody, beware!



STINKBUG 2010







Chef Stinkbug

END Commentary 12-03-2010

Copyright © 2010 by MHB Productions

Word Count: 2,874.



AMERICAN INSTITUTE OF CULINARY POLITICS



ELEMENTALNEWSOFTHEDAY.BLOGSPOT.COM-STINKBUG—THE HEADLINES

Elemental News of the Day Commentary-Opinion-Sports-Foodservice for Friday, December 03, 2010 by Chef Stinkbug



YEAST BREAD SEMINAR, PART IV

Yeast Bread Seminar, Part IV: Stinkbug’s Bread Seminar, #4—more exciting Bread Seminar News plus a White Boy learns to cook Soul Food in 2001!” by Chef Stinkbug



Bakersfield, CA, 12-03-2010 F: Now that the electorate elected Barack Obama and he is now in the White House, you have to wonder about what they eat.  I was involved with a black woman for five years and as I was a chef, I had the opportunity to learn about what the average Southern Black eats for their meals?  I learned about soul food and even learned how to clean chitterlings and let me tell you; most white folk have absolutely no idea!  I have handled plenty of tripe as the French like all offal meats as do most Europeans because in their various cultures, they ate every part of the animal that was edible, they just fancied it up and stuffed it with other stuff and then basted it with syrup and juices so it was sort of "OK." 

Actually, to clean the chitterlings or "chitlins" is a time-consuming process.  They have to soak and then you have to press out one indistinguishable part from another and do it just right or my babe would stop me and demand, "Look, Stinkbug, do it like this, do it like this!"  Man, I couldn't tell one piece of yuck from another and then, she cook the damned things and at New Year's, I had to be the first one to eat a bowl with a lot of Tabasco while my black in-laws looked on approvingly.  Man, I have eaten some things in my life, let me tell you, and even though I swore I was an instant convert, and I had to do all I could to keep from chucking 'em up.

The thing that puzzled me is the devotion to the "soul foods?"  I asked my mother-in-law #3, "If this was the stuff your relatives had to eat in slave days while the master's family took all of the good stuff, why isn't this seen as "slave food" and despised?  She looked at me across the table, her plate heaped high with greens, hog parts, chitterlings, cornbread, sweet potatoes, and all sorts of other things and looked stunned: "because we always have!"  She went on to tell me that over the years, the African-American peoples had come to see these foods as part of their cultural heritage even though slavers took their ancestors away from Africa, survived the Middle Passage if they were lucky, they seasoned them in the Caribbean, and finally sold in the United States.  I would have thought the memory would stick with me the rest of my life but boy, I was wrong.

In time, I came to accept the food although to be honest, they will never be my favorite, except for the delicious sweet potato pies, the cobblers, and the cornbreads but the hog parts, the chitins, etc., no, never but as a chef who does it for a living, I'm glad I learned how to prepare them.  One never knows where one might have work one day and chefs, young and old, have a duty to continue their education until the day they die.

Now, they did not raise Barack Obama in a typical black fashion being partly white and having an African father so his foods are completely different, especially when you consider his upbringing in different parts of the world and in Hawaii. Because of that, it is interesting to know what new foods the White House chefs added to their menus.  They have to be able to prepare dishes of every culture, ethnicity, religious restriction, and any and everything else.  Michelle, I'm sure, has taught her husband the black cultural foods but what I wouldn't give to be able to work in the White House kitchen, even as the guy who cleans the produce and nothing else.  What a job!  Fellow cooks, these are the types of jobs we need to pursue, so become a member of the American Culinary Federation and World Cooks Societies—learn, learn, and learn!  Oh, I wish I were still in my twenties!  This transcends the politics of everyone in the world, cooking is highly important and brings us together.  Heck, even the Somali pirates have hired chefs to cook for their captives!  Now, that is a job I would not want no matter how good the pay!  Let us make some biscuits!

Category: Bread Seminar

"BY ESCOFFIER! A PROMISE IS A PROMISE TO KEEP!"

 Last week, I told you that we would be talking "bread today" and you know I never ever lie...

Henceforth, by Escoffier* I aim to keep that promise! Offered today is a favorite biscuit recipe as well as the best roll recipe I have ever had in my repertoire, a real beauty of an Irish potato delight that when combined with soft butter will melt in your mouth!

*Augusta Escoffier 1846-1935, was and is the father of modern French cuisine. They refer to Escoffier as the "King of Chefs and the Chef to Kings." Without him, where might modern chefs find inspiration—"Hell's Kitchen?" Let us hope not! Let us begin!

Brian's Bakersfield Biscuits (about two dozen small biscuits) / Preheat oven to 400° F.

 1) Double-sift the following four items together:

Qty.
Measure
Item
Other
3
Cups
All-purpose flour

2.5
Tablespoons
Baking powder

2.25
Teaspoons
Granulated sugar

.75
Teaspoon
Salt


 2) Have ready the following and then please follow ensuing directions:

.5
Cup
Crisco shortening
soft

 3) Have the flour mixture sitting in a large bowl and then blend in the shortening as such: Mix the fat into the flour by rubbing it into the dry goods by rubbing everything together briskly between the palms of your hands. Chef Leonard and Chef Goss taught me the secrets at a truckstop. If you rub until the mixture resembles pea-sized particles, your biscuits will be crumbly and flaky; and if you continue until everything is well mixed, the biscuits will be and tender and soft. Generally, you find the best biscuits along any highway in the United States or in the kitchens of grandmothers and unmarried woman aunts. I have known truckers that would drive hundreds of miles to the famed Zingo's Cafe in Bakersfield just to have the biscuits made by these two chefs.

 4) Combine the two liquids together and after forming the flour mixture into a mound with a depression in the center, pour them in:

1
Cup
Whole milk

.5
Cup
Buttermilk, clabber, or sour milk


 5) Fold the liquid into the flour mixture gradually. Scoop in from the sides and fold over by hand until a soft, "goopy" mixture has formed. If it is real "goopy," add a little more flour until it has the consistency of say, "raw" meatloaf; when it has, scoop it out of the bowl and onto a well-floured work surface. Then-let us work!
 

 6) Obviously, we knead biscuit dough very little because we do not want gluten development at all. A biscuit should be crisp and flaky on the outside but buttery smooth on the in. With a rolling pin, roll the dough out until it is an inch thick. Now, this is the secret that I learned from the truckstop chefs-you want to cut out as many as possible the first time out because we DO NOT WANT TOO MANY "RETREADS." Use a cookie cutter about 1.5 to 2 inches round and begin to cut. Each time you cut, push the dough together so you can continue cutting with very little dough leftover from the first go-round. They do not have to be COOKIE CUTTER PERFECT; all they need to be is somewhat round. Finally, whatever scraps of dough are left, you may form these into RETREADS (but there should not be many!)
 
 

 7) Now, spray a sheet pan that will allow them to sit together in goodwill with PAM and line with a sheet of wax paper; spray that with PAM, too. Moreover, there are two ways that we can pan our biscuits for two very different styles. If you put the rounds next to one-another in close proximity, they will rise higher and be soft as feathers. If you space them farther apart, they will be "crisper" and "firmer"-sort of like American "hardtack." Delicious either way so do whatever Grandma did. Finally, using a pastry brush, brush them with the following final ingredient (save half for the end):
 

.5
Cup
Melted butter


 
 8) Place the pan on the middle rack of your preheated oven and bake these knockouts for 20-25 minutes or until golden brown. Upon removal, brush them with the remainder of the butter and place them upon a cooling rack to, well, obviously to cool. If you are going to use them right away, do not cool too much.
 
 

 9) It is best if you plan ahead and try to synchronize your cooking. I realize that on holidays, oven space is at a premium just as it is, in the professional kitchen. You can bake them and reheat in the microwave oven wrapped in plastic wrap. You may also wrap them in foil and reheat them in a 375° F. oven. At the truckstop, I would make batches of one hundred pounds of flour, cut them out, pan, and freeze. They emptied pans during the course of the day and when I returned at 10:00 p.m., virtually every pan was clean. What a job, I know! Now, let us bake potato rolls!
 
 

BC's Irish Potato Rolls (about 20 small rolls):

 1) Do the following the day before-cook a pound of russet, potatoes in a pot of simmering water and SAVE EVERYTHING!



1
Pound
Russet or red potatoes


When done, put the pot with the liquid and the potato into your refrigerator.

 2) Have the following ingredients ready for use the next day:

.5
Cup
Butter, melted and warm

2
Cups
Buttermilk, warm

3/5
Ounce
Fresh cake yeast
OR
.25
Ounce
Active dry yeast

2
Tablespoons
Granulated sugar

2
Large
Eggs

1
Teaspoon
Salt

7.5
Cups PLUS
Bread flour


 
 3) Heat butter and buttermilk in a pot over a low flame until TEPID (what your finger can handle without discomfort-105°-115° F). Remove from the flame and pour into bowl of an electric mixer. Blend on low speed until dissolved and then cover with a cloth and allow resting for 6-8 minutes or until minute bubbles are on the surface denoting that, the yeast cells are ready to work with.
 
 

 4) Scramble the eggs with the sugar and add to the yeast mixture. Add, too, the grated russet potatoes after warming in your microwave oven. Double-sift the flour with the salt and then gradually add along the sides of the mixing bowl as you permit the hook to rotate on low speed. The mixture will greedily absorb the flour but will then pull itself off onto the sides of the mixer. Keep adding flour slowly and gradually until dough finally pulls itself from the sides of the bowl and onto the hook and remains there for 2-3 minutes of low speed rotation time.
 
 

 5) Between 2-3 minutes will seem like a long time and there may come several times when the dough gets back onto the sides of the bowl to which, you will have to add still more flour until it finally stays there.[1] When you have added more (or less) than the exact specified amount, once it stays on the dough hook and is not just a sticky-gooey lump, pull it forth from the bowl onto a work surface dusted semi-light with all-purpose flour. Knead for 2-3 minutes at most by hand until you can form it into a non-sticky ball. WHAT I HAVE ALWAYS SAID TO MY STUDENTS OVER THE YEARS IS THIS: IT WILL FEEL "ALIVE" IN YOUR HANDS (BECAUSE IT IS)! That is almost as good as finding out that you are going be a parent for the first time (unless, of course, the pregnancy was a mistake! OOPS!

 6) Take a bowl approximately twice the size of the dough ball and lightly dust with flour (never grease the sides of a bowl with butter or shortening! Shame!). Place the dough round into the bottom, cover with a slightly moist towel, and set somewhere where it is warm like a shelf above the stove or an unused, upper kitchen cabinet. PREHEAT STANDARD OVEN TO 375° F.

 7) It will take the dough anywhere from 20-60 minutes to leaven but check sooner rather than later. TEMPERATURE IS OF THE UTMOST IMPORTANCE! Do not place dough in either HOT or COLD places—they should be in the "Goldilocks’ Zone!" WARM! Warm is what we want! When it has doubled in size, remove it from the bowl and transfer to a lightly floured work surface. As we are making rolls, which are to be “light” and not loaves that require the strength of a second rise, one time up is all we need.

 8) Cut the dough into long strips about 1.5 inches wide and then cut the strips into squares that weigh about 1.5-1.75 ounces each or are approximately 1.5 inches x 1 inch thick and about .5-.75 inch in height; they should appear as little "pillows." Working quickly now, fold each round in upon itself into compact little balls. Do not over flour the surface or dip your fingers into ice water anymore than necessary to facilitate their shaping.

 9) Spray a baking sheet with PAM and lightly dust with yellow cornmeal as this not only helps in insulating the bottoms but also provides some really tasteful flavor. Then place the rolls close to but not next to one another. Combine the following:

1
Large
Egg
Beaten with
2
Tablespoons
Cold water


10) Brush the tops of the rolls with the above mixture and then place the pan in a warm area for the final proof. When they have doubled in size, humidify the oven with water squirted from a spray bottle and then place the pan inside the oven onto the middle rack. Bake 10-12 minutes or until the rolls have browned nicely and then remove from the oven and allow cooling on a wire rack.

11) As they cool, brush with melted butter several times over the next 10 minutes, which will give them an attractive glaze. When completely COOLED, give the finished potato rolls their signature look-lightly sprinkle with all-purpose flour dusted from a fine-meshed sieve or strainer. Finally, get ready for some TEN-STAR rolls for which to die! Eat or cool and if you do not expect to eat them all at one sitting, wrap individually with plastic wrap and either keep them at room temperature or in the freezer but NEVER IN THE REFRIGERATOR! It is a common mistake to want to store bread in the refrigerator. If you do so, they will dry out and will be only a shadow of its once delicious self!
 
 

--------------------------------------------

As always, we have a great time around here and that is why we want all of you to become a part of the organization by submitting articles to us for inspection and full-credit.  It is a great thing if you would do this, as it is a symbiotic relationship: we give you the space to share your recipes and in return, you send us more and more people who will become dedicated followers of the END.  Currently of multi-diversity across the Internet, it is important that we hear the voices of more and more people from all walks of the foodservice profession —join us. We urge our readership to write to us, leave comments, and if there are any of you, who would care to write an article for us, please get in touch via Magnolia Hilltop Brewers, P.O. Box 20669, Bakersfield, CA 93390-0669.  We obviously do not pay anything but give YOU full byline and that, my friends, is worth its weight in gold.  We want as many people who want to write to be able to do so and we believe that by presenting a forum for our fellow chefs, we are doing something for our beloved industry.  We love diversity and hope to add new and different authors to our pantheon of chefs, food and beverage directors, and culinary professionals.  Come on and join us, it will be fun! Expect that when all of us have run through our cycle, we will be introducing some brand-new talent or so Stinky says.

Please remember to avoid doing business with AARC Technology in Bakersfield, CA.  These people do not care about the small customer anymore but instead put all of their attentions onto their corporate customers. It is sad to not remember why one has the success they do or from where it came.

            This is our eighth day online and all I can say is “thank you for joining me on this exciting culinary excursion.”                                     

Anyhow, let us close with this impassioned plea—please leave some comments and/or become a follower and why not spend some money and purchase an album by the Flamin’ Groovies’ and/or buy a cookbook from Amazon.com—we want to make some money here so help us out by buying something!  Allied with them, we are pleased to market their merchandise! See you next time around! Bye!  

Thank you!

Stinky

Stinkbug
American Bakers’ Association, ACF, CWC


This is I back in the 1980's when I was the sous chef of a large foodservice operation in Bakersfield, CA. I began my cooking career in the 1960's when I apprenticed underneath a great chef, Master Chef Ulysses S. Paz.  I have lived and worked in Hawaii, Washington State, Arizona, and California.  Even though I am in my late 60’s, I am still actively involved at a hotel here in Bakersfield, CA.

Stinkbug writes from OILDALE, CA.



---30---

The END Commentary for Friday, December 03, 2010 by Chef Stinkbug



Please note that everyone who writes for the Elemental News of the Day is their own person entitled to their own opinions, attitudes, and insanity so does not necessarily speak for all of us.  Thanks, Stinkbug.

REFERENCES:

The one-and-only Chef Stinkbug wrote this original essay.



Recipe created by Chef Stinkbug on November 13, 1982 in Bakersfield, CA.

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This is #00009 an original oil painting by Beverly Carrick entitled, “Delivering the Mail." It is among her more beautiful works and is available for sale. You can see much more of her work at her Website, located at http://www.beverlycarrick.com or at Brian Carrick's Facebook page. At her Website, you will see not only more original oil paintings but also lithographs, giclees, prints, miniatures, photographs, and even her award-winning instructional video entitled, "Painting the Southwest with Beverly Carrick." Beverly has been painting for more than 60 years and known around the world for both the beauty and timelessness of her artworks. Hanging in private and public galleries and followed by many fans encircling the globe—her works instill awe because of her artistic brilliance and personal beauty. We urge you to go to her Website NOW and view her work. It is possible that you will find something you like and will want to buy it for yourself, a friend, a loved one, or a neighbor! You will not be disappointed so please: do yourself a favor and go there IMMEDIATELY! Thank you, the Elemental News of the Day!

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